My Equipment List- Add to it

J

jrod81

Veteran
Hey guys,
Getting my list together to itemize my budget. Here is what I have thus far, feel free to add to it and let me know what I have forgot:

1. Canon 7d w/ batteries and 16GB x133 Kingston Cards
2. Tripod (I am going with the Manfrotto 190XDB w/ 701 head)
3. ZaZa Slider
4. Shoulder/Handgrip Rig (I am going with Indisystem DSLRsm w/ FollowFocus Pro)
5. ND Fader or Cokin Filter System
6. Mattebox (I will be going with the Genus in time)
7. Either Glidecam 2000HD unless I can afford a Merlin
8. Lenses:
a) Canon 17-55 EF-S or Tamron 17-50mm or Sigma 18-50mm
b) Canon 1.8 50mm
c) Sigma 10mm
d) something around an 80-85mm
e) Canon L 1.4 35mm
 
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1. Don't use the x133's they will drop frames every so often. Get the Extreme III Scandisk cards instead.
2. Don't skimp on the fluid head! You will regret it.
8. Forget the 50mm if you are getting the 35mm f/1.4, instead use that money for a good 85mm, or the 17-55 from Canon.

But mostly:
Don't try to get one of everything, instead buy good equipment and slowly add more. The limitations will force you to be ingenious and develop skills with the gear you have access to that you otherwise wouldn't. Then when you get more stuff you'll focus on them the same way you did with the other equipment. And you can always rent.

Just my 0.02
 
USLatin said:
1. Don't use the x133's they will drop frames every so often. Get the Extreme III Scandisk cards instead.
Click to expand...

I still don't get the reasoning behind this. They're rated at 20mb/s, which is over double the maximum write speed for the 7D's video. What would make them any more prone to dropping frames than the Extreme III? I own both and haven't noticed a difference in performance, certainly haven't dropped any frames with the Kingston.
 
I feel the same way, but I bought two 32GB 133x which are supposed to be the fastest 133x cards and got dropped frames 6 times in one week. So I complained and got full refunds including free shipping because they didn't perform how they claim they should. I replaced them for two Extreme III's and haven't had a single buffer warning since. That is my real world experience. But if you don't need to worry about ruined shots or lost moments, then the 133x 32GB cards are a great deal.

jrod81 said:
thanks for the help... could you guide me toward a better choice of tripod head please?
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I liked my Cartoni Focus but it isn't the best deal I think at $800. I think Manfrotto has other options, and there are many other brands. Sorry but I can't say off the top of my "head" :)
 
id toss in a medium wide prime or two, maybe a 24 or 28mm 1.8 or 2.8

Id also get some sort of camera stabilizer, the 7D is small enough you can use most small steadi-cams with good success.
 
I'd skip the shoulder mount, large, unwieldy, and you probably won't use it much...I'd consider doing something with rails and handles but not going all out with the shoulder system...I have the DSLRsm and I hardly ever use it, I just go straight to my DIY gunstock mount usually.
 
An alternative do a shoulder mount is a monopod. You can't run around recording but it's faster than a tripod and releaves your shoulders and back from the weight.

Get a good sound recording device and some good mics.
 
I've heard that in areas with fast wind motion the lear jet can get a little bumpy..I'd go with the Gulfstream, sure it's louder, you might even say it has a noise problem, and the controls are harder to use, and require you to be an excellent pilot, but overall you'll be happier.
 
1. Canon 7d w/ batteries and 16GB x133 Kingston Cards
I use transcend 233x cards they work fine
>>2. Tripod (I am going with the Manfrotto 190XDB w/ 701 head)
You can save money here getting this for the legs
http://cgi.ebay.com/EI9901-Pro-Heav...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item1e5905c1be

Don't skimp on the head if you plan do to any complex camera work. I bought the cheapest pro head I could find the $450 vinten pro6-hdv head and it is limiting me I need switch to something with more whip pan resistance.

Just know you won't be able to do a smooth pan while dollying/racking without a $1000 head.


5. ND Fader or Cokin Filter System
Conkin P series system is highly recommended and a great value.
6. Mattebox (I will be going with the Genus in time)
Cokin filter systems have detachable hoods. Mattebox is Not so much needed with modern lenses that reduce flare/come and Conkin P series is a much cheaper way to get multiple filters.
7. Either Glidecam 2000HD unless I can afford a Merlin
Some people have had good luck with Canon IS lenses for very smooth camera work.

also I Local DP has this and loves it:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Gliders-Shoulde...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2c51a13ee5
8. Lenses:
a) Canon 17-55 EF-S or Tamron 17-50mm or Sigma 18-50mm
Have Tamron 17-50mm, it's VERY amazingly sharp at 2.8 but I'd like to have the Canon one with IS
b) Canon 1.8 50mm
Nice cheap lens, sold it and just use my takumar or Nikkon 50mm 1.4 though
c) Sigma 10mm
I find 17mm is as wide as I need to go usually.
d) something around an 80-85mm
Have $250 Opteka 85mm 1.4 is an amazing lens
e) Canon L 1.4 35mm[/quote]
Nice expensive glass. Sigma 30mm 1.4 is another option

The lens I find myself using most often is the sigma 20mm 1.8 I lose some sharpness that the 17-50mm offers, but the overall look is better to me at 2.0 aperture, and I can run more natural light levels.

Also consider A Pentax Takumar 50mm 1.4 for low light. GREAT lens.
 
ydgmdlu said:
Your choice is, IMO, the right choice. Fancier heads seem like overkill (for a DSLR) to me.
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Not if you feel a spring when tilting, or if it feels jagged. I haven't used that head so I can't say. Just want to point out that a fluid head is intrinsical to good cinematography. Bad heads will ruin shots, slow you down, ruin moments that may be lost forever.
 
Cheap fluid heads have all sorts of play in the handles and mechanics. If you think that a good good fluid head is overkill for a DSLR then enjoy the sketchy pans and tilts. I use a Sachtler 15 and it's solid as a rock and in no way would I consider it overkill for anything. It an optimal tool to tame the rolling shutter effect of the d90. An excellent fluid head is an important piece of the puzzle.
 
Ben_B said:
I'd skip the shoulder mount, large, unwieldy, and you probably won't use it much...I'd consider doing something with rails and handles but not going all out with the shoulder system...I have the DSLRsm and I hardly ever use it, I just go straight to my DIY gunstock mount usually.
Click to expand...

Okay so if I skip the shoulder/hand grip option, what would i get to put the follow focus on? just a baseplate w/ rods for the focus to set up on? could someone point me to a cheap baseplate option that would be right for this? something like this only much much much cheaper: http://store.zacuto.com/DSLR-Cine-Baseplate-Kit.html
 
i mean that is $1000... the setup with indisystems (which i realize the quality might not be there in comparison to zacuto and redrock) is $650 for shoulder/handgrips/follow focus...

any other options that are cheaper?
 
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