MTF Nikon Adapter / Loose Lenses

Your solution looks very good. First time I have heard about it here. I assume the F3 version can be equipped with a gear ring for mounting motors like the other version on your website. Do you have any photos of it mounted on the F3 that can be posted up?

EDIT:

Nevermind... I just saw the photos of your mount on the F3 in the thread here. I see a gear wheel is incorporated into the unit and it looks like the finger adjustment lever can be removed if you are mounting motors. Is this the case? Goodness, it looks like you have F stop marks as well!
 
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That's(mostly) correct. The knob is actually there to calibrate the iris scale for different lenses.
For motor it can be rotated and locked anywere...
BTW I'm'not Lenny... but you knew that......
 
optitek said:
It's typical forum misunderstanding. No I'm not defensive, maybe a little frustrated having to explain something hundred times over, like a broken record:violin:
On this forum, not necessarily Reduser, I've done it at least a dozen times. Adjustable height adapters are wrong on cameras like F3 or Epic. Plain and simple.
The fact that someone wants one, or someone even makes one- does not change the "wrong" part. Lenny is a nice guy, I like him dearly(in a "manly" way of course) but that does not make him always right. He knows that...
Now back to the topic:
You remove the PL adapter and replace the ProLock- 10 seconds tops- why would you want or need hybrid system with all the complications/errors/expenses involved?
If your flange on with the PL was set to 52mm correctly the ProLock will match it perfectly.
Now if your pl/Nikon lenses have their backfocus messed up they may not focus correctly- but what does that have to do with the camera or adapter? It's a lens problem and the lens(es) should be corrected.
It's really pretty simple notion- no need to make it complicated......
I hope this post does not look too defensive to you-I sincerely do:love4: all LOVE here
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Is the ProLock ready for the F3 and ¿Cuanto cuesta? How mush?

EDIT: Does it mount like the PL to F adapter or do you need to bolt it to the camera like you did on the RED?
 
There is a back focus adjustment screw to the left of the mount area when you are standing in front of the camera. This adjustment works for any mount that is attached to the Sony F3 mount. That includes both the PL mount (which is IN FACT a mount) and all the other mounts with the MTF and Optitek included. Have a look in the manual.
 
Viddovation said:
Compared to getting your A-mount and adapting all of lenses to it? Yes. Very much so.

Plus, Nikon is a very interchangable mount, my lenses hold resale value very well for when I make the move to a PL set of primes.

Anyone getting the Nikon mount is doing so for budget reasons. True cinema PL lenses are preferable, but they cost more. In that sense, the MTF Nikon adapter is a stop gap until we can afford PL primes.

I bear the issues because it's the best system I've ever been able to afford owning. Worlds better than when I was using the fiddly depth of field ground glass adapters.
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I feel sad to hear about what you said.
It is very difficult to control lots layers of parts like this. We use very high quality of materials and with very precise manufacture. And with very strict quality control to make sure the precision of products. It cost very much on this, but one A-mount for F3 is merely cost you only $600USD.
A-mount system costs more than a single mount, but it's not expensive. Moreover, You have to know that, what you buy is one system which will work on other machines!
Today, you buy a single mount for One camera, and it might only costs you $400-800USD. maybe just a while later, there's some new machine out, and then you have to spend another $400-800 for one mount. And 1 or 2 years later, you have to buy another mount for your new machine....
Of course, if you only use the same one machine or you use same system machine, then that's another story, but in digital world, it`s hard.

Besides the price, A-mount provides high effectivity. It also has some functions that other mounts cannot provide.
For example, iris control on Nikon G lens.
A-mount can let you have true F stop marks.
If your iris control on your mount, you cannot get accurate f stop.
IMG_8313.jpg
 
Andrew Stone said:
There is a back focus adjustment screw to the left of the mount area when you are standing in front of the camera. This adjustment works for any mount that is attached to the Sony F3 mount. That includes both the PL mount (which is IN FACT a mount) and all the other mounts with the MTF and Optitek included. Have a look in the manual.[/QUOTE
Hello,
You may have misunderstood my question, as I am well aware of the backfocus ajustment capability of the F3. I was questioning whether use of the Prolock adapter will necessarily dictate an initial backfocus adjustment, whereas, the MTF did not
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forum communication

forum communication

Ron777 said:
Andrew Stone said:
There is a back focus adjustment screw to the left of the mount area when you are standing in front of the camera. This adjustment works for any mount that is attached to the Sony F3 mount. That includes both the PL mount (which is IN FACT a mount) and all the other mounts with the MTF and Optitek included. Have a look in the manual.[/QUOTE
Hello,
You may have misunderstood my question, as I am well aware of the backfocus ajustment capability of the F3. I was questioning whether use of the Prolock adapter will necessarily dictate an initial backfocus adjustment, whereas, the MTF did not
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Ha!!!! I rest my case... speaking of a broken record...
below is a copy of my quote from few posts up that explains this very issue.
Few posts later same question appears-surprise, surprise:beer:
Again- not defensive all:love4: here- just illustrating my point: The technical explanation highlited in blue
quote_icon.png
Originally Posted by optitek
It's typical forum misunderstanding. No I'm not defensive, maybe a little frustrated having to explain something hundred times over, like a broken record:violin:
On this forum, not necessarily Reduser, I've done it at least a dozen times. Adjustable height adapters are wrong on cameras like F3 or Epic. Plain and simple.
The fact that someone wants one, or someone even makes one- does not change the "wrong" part. Lenny is a nice guy, I like him dearly(in a "manly" way of course) but that does not make him always right. He knows that...
Now back to the topic:
You remove the PL adapter and replace the ProLock- 10 seconds tops- why would you want or need hybrid system with all the complications/errors/expenses involved?
If your flange on with the PL was set to 52mm correctly the ProLock will match it perfectly.
Now if your pl/Nikon lenses have their backfocus messed up they may not focus correctly- but what does that have to do with the camera or adapter? It's a lens problem and the lens(es) should be corrected.
It's really pretty simple notion- no need to make it complicated......
I hope this post does not look too defensive to you-I sincerely do:love4: all LOVE here
Click to expand...
 
LOL , I must reluctantly agree with Optitek though it will shock and surprise millions - I am not always right! In fact my wife might put the matter more strongly.

My earlier statement that I have never found mount adapters to be consistent was frankly far too strong and probably based more on less expensive adapters. I have only tested 2 MTF adapters and found them to be the same, and suspect that optiteks are also because he obviously is very exacting. I was troubled though to test 2 Sony PL adapters on the same F3 and find an 18-85 focusing quite differently on them. I tested very quickly though and perhaps I was mistaken, though my friends at a very reputable rental house have suggested the same. Caveat is that I haven't tested the Sony PL's or any other except cheap $150 and below adapters carefully myself and urge others to do so. i hope I was mistaken.

Optitek is certainly right that if your cameras Backfocus is correct and your adapter is also correct then you should be in business and you shouldn't be correcting back focus all the time for different lenses. He may also be correct that adding a backfocus adjustment to the adapter itself is opening a can of worms. What troubles me is whether or not all these adapters are consistent. I would like to hear what others experience is.

He is also correct that if your Nikon zooms are misadjusted then I doubt adjusting the cameras BF would get you to a parfocal zoom. It would be a lens problem. Wish I had known about his adapters before I invested in the MTF as it sounds very solid and i have seen some looseness in the MTF as well. I will try the JDDallas trick.
 
I also agree with both Leni and Optitek as far as not needing a back focus adjustment to keep focus on zoom lenses.
However, professional 2/3" etc, lenses have them for a different reason. One of them being that on ENG you don't have someone pulling focus as you zoom and you may want to start zoom at a focus distance and finish at a different focus distance. After you finished your effect you can simply set your zoom through back-focus to the line marked on the lens. (Unless you have done it this is all non-sense)
So, my point is that yo don't need to re back focus if you have an adapter done to specs. I specially the like Optitek's marked f stops to set your DOF and gears for crane/remote operations.
 
Douglas Villalba said:
I also agree with both Leni and Optitek as far as not needing a back focus adjustment to keep focus on zoom lenses.
However, professional 2/3" etc, lenses have them for a different reason. One of them being that on ENG you don't have someone pulling focus as you zoom and you may want to start zoom at a focus distance and finish at a different focus distance. After you finished your effect you can simply set your zoom through back-focus to the line marked on the lens. (Unless you have done it this is all non-sense)
So, my point is that yo don't need to re back focus if you have an adapter done to specs. I specially the like Optitek's marked f stops to set your DOF and gears for crane/remote operations.
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I'm not sure I understand- I've never heard of it...
I thought the purpose of the BF adjustment on 3 chip camera lenses was fine tuning the focus because the flange is not so well controlled on these cameras and with all the power they draw the generated heat moved the flange around a bit throughout the day hence the "Back Focus Check" calls between takes through out the day on the F900, Varicam shoots.... Oh yes and the Macro feature on these lenses.... But I may be wrong- I come from film production background....
Doug- on a separate note- THANK YOU for complimenting my adapter design- I worked hard on it and a professional(you) noticing the features I put in it is a great reward- in some ways worth more than the money....
 
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I read it either on the camera or lens instructions of a camera I bought 15 yrs ago. I tried it out 'cause it intrigued me too and it actually works.
Lets say that you are doing a table top product shoot where you have tomatoes in front, onions in the middle and garlic on the back. Now you want a close up, follow focus effect of each as you zoom in.
It is actually the same effect that you get when your back focus is off only thing is that you control where the focus is and how fast it moves. The farther from BF setting the faster it goes to a different focus.
Not many people use it I guess.
 
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