More and more confused

sharry

Well-known member
Hey everybody... What I'm about to ask may have been ask a 100 times and beleive me I've read all those 100 posts on those 100 forums. But none of them have solved my question. Please don't be harsh and just explain me. The question is about the crop factor. Now I know that the AF100 has a micro4/3 sensor which has a crop factor of 2. Meaning my 35mm would be a 70mm. But the question is what if its a Nikon DX35mm? DX is the APS-C of Nikon. Can I use a s16mm cine lens? What crop will I get because its crops size is higher as compared to a micro4/3? What is the difference between a micro4/3 sensor and a 4/3 sensor.

Please help me out! I'm in real trouble. I am seriously thinking of buying the af100 but this lens and crop factor makes my head spin. Aside from this is af100 a universal camera like the EX1 or does it have different models for PAL and NTSC? Thanking in advance!
 
No matter what lens you put on the AF100, whether it is a 35mm lens for full-frame Nikon, or a 35mm lens meant for the APS-C type Nikons, you will always get a crop factor of 2.0 (when compared to full frame).

You can use a super 16mm lens as far as I know, but due to the smaller glass area of these lenses you will not cover the full sensor area of the AF100 (with a few, very rare exceptions).

There is no difference between a micro4/3 and 4/3 sensor. They are both the same size. The difference between the two is the size and design of the lens mount, and more notably the distance of the lens mount to the sensor, also called the focal flange distance.

The AF100 does have NTSC and PAL models. You get what you buy, depending on where you live.

Hope this quells your troubles.

Regards,
Paul Vicente
 
First you can set the AF100/101/102/etc to 50hz or 60hz meaning you have both Pal and NTSC in every version of the AF camera. It's universal.

Secondly, crop factor can be confusing so think about it as field of view instead. A 35mm lens is always a 35mm lens but depending on sensor size the field of view changes. The bigger the sensor the wider field of view is, and vice verse for smaller sensors.
 
Can't thank you guys (Paul, Finnegan and editman) enough. You solved my problem.

I checked the list of sensors and their sizes and the 4/3 is bigger in comparison to the 16mm film. So in a way the AF100 is the digital 16mm camera! I have also heard the lens with fixed or constant aperture are best for moving pictures work... Is that true. I was checking out lenses and I really liked the Tokina 11-16mm f2.8. What do you guys think about it?
 
The Tokina 11-16 is a great lens (pretty fast and little distortion given how wide it is), but any Canon EOS lens is going to need a special adapter for controlling the iris. Currently there's the kippon manual control adapter, and soon there will be the Birger electronic controlled lens mount. Without them, you'll have to use a canon camera to set the iris on your lens, remove it, and place on the af100 each time you change the iris.
 
But pelican how is the kippon adapter? After that, would you still need the birger mount? And you say that its manual. So how does the workflow differ to the one in which you need the canon camera?
 
I checked the list of sensors and their sizes and the 4/3 is bigger in comparison to the 16mm film. So in a way the AF100 is the digital 16mm camera!
It's a lot closer to being a "digital 35mm camera" than a digital 16mm camera". The sensor is almost the same size as 35mm movie film, and it's well over 3x larger than 16mm film (when shot in 16:9 aspect ratio).

And no, I don't think any S16 lenses will cover the AF100 frame; at least, none of the lenses I have will cover. Maybe something that's 40mm or longer might cover, but you'd still have to check for edge sharpness and distortion etc.

I have also heard the lens with fixed or constant aperture are best for moving pictures work... Is that true. I was checking out lenses and I really liked the Tokina 11-16mm f2.8. What do you guys think about it?
Everyone prefers a fixed aperture when they can get it, provided that that fixed aperture is bright enough. I'd rather have a 2.8-3.5 variable aperture lens, than a fixed f/4.0 lens, for example.

Lots of people think very highly of the Tokina 11-16; only real problem at this moment is that it doesn't have an aperture ring so that makes it clumsier to work with than lenses that do have aperture rings. If you're getting the Canon version of the Tokina, you could get the Birger adapter sometime next month (assuming it does ship next month) and that would give you complete aperture control.
 
Amazon sells a Nikon DX version of the Tokina 11-16, which has a manual aperture ring. With a Nikon->M43 adapter, is this DX lens likely to vignette on a Panasonic M43 video camera?
I thought the Nikon version didn't have an aperture ring? Might be crazy... that picture doesn't show an aperture ring, it only shows focus and zoom...

No DX-format lens will vignette on an m43 sensor. The DX sensor is a little bit bigger than the m43 sensor, so any lens that covers DX (or APS-C) will definitely cover the 4/3 sensor.
 
Ha Ha. I was doubting myself for a second too!

I thought the Nikon version didn't have an aperture ring? Might be crazy... that picture doesn't show an aperture ring, it only shows focus and zoom...

No DX-format lens will vignette on an m43 sensor. The DX sensor is a little bit bigger than the m43 sensor, so any lens that covers DX (or APS-C) will definitely cover the 4/3 sensor.
 
+1 on the Tokina. I use the nikon mount Tokina with the Kilpon adaptor and have no problems with the lens. It is really a great piece of glass, and as wide as you will reasonably need. You cant go wrong with that lens.
 
+1 on the Tokina. I use the nikon mount Tokina with the Kilpon adaptor and have no problems with the lens. It is really a great piece of glass, and as wide as you will reasonably need. You cant go wrong with that lens.

I second that. The Lens is great and the Kipon adapter is good too. It works like the Novoflex with an aperture ring, but it costs 1/3 of the price of the Novoflex.
 
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I second that. The Lens is great and the Kipon adapter is good too. It works like the Novoflex with an aperture ring, but it costs 1/3 of the price of the Novoflex.

I have to say while I have the Kipon, and it works (in that the lens mounts and stays on and can adjust iris), I dont really like it. I notice some play causing shift that forced me on a shoot to make a little shim out of gaff tape. I am only using it till I get to work the adaptimax into a project budget. I originally was going to get the novoflex, but it and every other adapter but the ebay ones and the kilpon were sold out when I got my rig, and I like the design of the adaptimax better after using the ones with the rings fo a couple monts. I noticed on some lenses, like my 18-55 nikon G/DX, the spring in the lens would move the aperature ring after a few seconds, so I feel a screw would be better to maintain constant exposure, and I can always throw the old kilpon on when I need to rack iris on a G/DX lens. Also, on a couple G/DX lenses it did not work the iris, mostly on a couple other 18-55mm nikons we had lying around from old kit cameras, but the lenses worked when used on a D90 or D5000 nikon DSLR.

The Tokina 11-16 is a rockstar of a lens though. Razor sharp, great image, awesome 9 blade iris, hard stops, and will even cover a FF35mm camera at 15-16mm. And for a $500 still lens, it is the best ultra wide deal on the planet. You really can't beat it. Can't say enough good things, everyone should have one.
 
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I notice some play causing shift that forced me on a shoot to make a little shim out of gaff tape. I am only using it till I get to work the adaptimax into a project budget. I originally was going to get the novoflex, but it and every other adapter but the ebay ones and the kilpon were sold out when I got my rig, and I like the design of the adaptimax better after using the ones with the rings fo a couple monts. I noticed on some lenses, like my 18-55 nikon G/DX, the spring in the lens would move the aperature ring after a few seconds, so I feel a screw would be better to maintain constant exposure, and I can always throw the old kilpon on when I need to rack iris on a G/DX lens.
The Tokina 11-16 is a rockstar of a lens though. Razor sharp, great image, awesome 9 blade iris, hard stops, and will even cover a FF35mm camera at 15-16mm. And for a $500 still lens, it is the best ultra wide deal on the planet. You really can't beat it. Can't say enough good things, everyone should have one.

Never cross my mind (rack iris), but your right, it might become handy some day. Thanks for the tip. The Tikina is my only Nikon lens that has no aperture ring. It is indeed razor sharp, but imo so is the Olympus 12-60 f2.8-4. I think I might use the Tokina on some shot where the Olympus is not wide enough. But for now it is my favorite lens on my Nikon 300 for interior/landscape/group shots.
I did not notice any play with the Nikon lenses using the Kipon adapter, but it might show when I start using it more often. I ordered the Novoflex, but my credit card was not accepted, probably because i gave a different delivery address. The price was 180euro shipping included(180x1.41= about 250us$.)
 
I thought the Nikon version didn't have an aperture ring? Might be crazy... that picture doesn't show an aperture ring, it only shows focus and zoom...

You're right; my mistake. On the tiny picture, I mistook the focal markings for an aperture ring. Might as well get the Canon, then, I guess.
 
You're right; my mistake. On the tiny picture, I mistook the focal markings for an aperture ring. Might as well get the Canon, then, I guess.

I was in the understanding that canon lenses need some kind of electronic adapter to set the aperture?????
 
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