Mole Softlite Reflector Paint Question

[Moseph]

Just acquired a 750 zip and an egg crate for the amazing price of $75 because the paint is chipping off of the reflector in one spot. I know that B&H sells spray cans of the reflector paint that's supposed to be used for these things but I'm wondering about prepping it for being painted. I'm planning on repainting the whole reflector since it's old and the color temperature is visibly warmer, probably due to that. Do I need to remove all of the old paint first for better adhesion, or can I spray it on over the old stuff? I'm really leaning towards the former, but it's a lot more work and if it's just not necessary, I'd like to know.

 

[Jarrett P. Morgan]

I would suggest sanding the whole area which you want to paint, as that will help the paint stick and stay better.

If the paint has shifted in color, then I think repainting the whole thing would be a good idea.

 

[tom_wise]

One Spot? If the chips not big, then maybe no biggie!

But otherwise it isn't necessary to remove the old paint. What is necessary is to prep the whole reflector and paint the whole reflector. Prepping can be done often times with a 3M scotchbrite pad and lots of elbow grease. The chips spot should be feathered to make it so that you can not feel the transition from painted to chipped. Once thats accomplished it needs to be cleaned really really well. Then just follow the paint instructions from the paints manufacturer: typically talks about cleanliness and painting in light layers.

Also, in my garage days you couldda walked in there handed that reflector to me and I could have that spot feathered in twenty seconds with a air-powered 3M pad....just saying don't forget to ask pros for help.

 

[Moseph]

Feathering out the paint turned into most of the paint being removed. Almost all of it was ready to fall off. The hole started out around 5-10 square inches and this is what it's become:

I can't feel the transition at all towards the top (left side of the image). Other parts are just barely detectible. Does it need to be sanded even more?

 

[Jarrett P. Morgan]

As long as the paint sticks to the existing paint (i.e. the paint isn't super slick and glossy) and the existing paint isn't going to want to peel off in a month or two, I think you should be fine; the new paint will just coat over the old paint.

 

[David W. Jones]

I'm a little old fashion when it comes to stuff like this. I would media blast the fixture and repaint with Mole paint.

Do it right the first time and it will likely last another 40 years.

 

[Michael Carter]

...and... the Mole paint may not stick to bare metal; it may require a high-heat primer. Check the label or see if you can find instructions from Mole.

 

[Moseph]

I'm a little old fashion when it comes to stuff like this. I would media blast the fixture and repaint with Mole paint.
Do it right the first time and it will likely last another 40 years.

That's what I wound up doing actually. Sandblasted the whole thing to rough it up a little bit and then applied a thin coat of paint. Currently waiting for it to dry, I'll add another coat in an hour or so.

...and... the Mole paint may not stick to bare metal; it may require a high-heat primer. Check the label or see if you can find instructions from Mole.

Actually it says no primer is necessary or recommended, luckily.

One other thing for anyone looking to do this - I'm able to use the Mole paint from the repair shop in my school, but for anyone who's actually going out and buying a can, I was told that Krylon High Heat & Radiator paint works just as well as the Mole paint (by the guy who runs the repair shop). It's around a third of the price and probably way easier to find. I haven't tried it myself so it's just his word, but I thought I'd put it out there.