Microphone Amplified?

russelln

Member
I am considering getting a shotgun mic for my canon gl1. I will plug the microphone into the camera through a 1/4 plug. Will I need to run it through an amplifier or soundboard before it can go to the camera or can I directly connect it?
 
Well, considering that the GL-1 doesn't have a 1/4" connection on it, that would be an interesting feat to accomplish. In addition, the 1/8" connection that it does have is a stereo input, and has a low-level voltage output for cheap consumer mics.

What shotgun mic are you looking to buy?

If you are looking to get something like an NTG-1, 2, or 3 (or similar shotgun), your best bet is to get an XLR adapter for your GL-1, from Beachtek or Juicedlink. Get one that's battery-powered and supplies phantom. It will provide the necessary pre-amp, convert the signal to the needed 1/8", and defeat the 1.5v output.
 
If memory serves, the GL1 lacks a line input or manual audio controls. If that is the case, then you would want to avoid feeding the GL1 a line-level signal from a preamp or mixer, as that would distort on the camera's preamps. You could pad a line output down to mic level, but you'd be loosing much of the benefit of a high-quality mixer, and you'd still be fighting the AGC. The AGC (automatic gain control) operates much like a manual exposure, often causing the sound levels to swing wildly during a single shot.

When it comes to many consumer camcorders, the only way to get professional sound is to use a portable recorder to shoot double-system.
 
Not sure about the GL1, but the GL2 has manual audio level controls... but no line input, just that cheezy little mini-stereo...
 
Not sure about the GL1, but the GL2 has manual audio level controls... but no line input, just that cheezy little mini-stereo...

Nope. The GL-1 has the stereo 1/8" mic in, no level controls. With the GL-2, they added audio level meters and manual level controls.

So again... Beachtek or Juicedlink.
 
So again... Beachtek or Juicedlink.
Six of one, half a dozen of the other. Avoid anything with a built-in preamp, as the GL1's preamp is stuck in the "on" position. If phantom power becomes an issue, there are plenty of battery-powered +48V phantom power supplies on the market (I'm pretty sure PSC makes one). However, the real weak link in your audio signal chain will be the GL-1. With that AGC, the levels will be up and down like a toilet seat (ie. pretty much useless for pro work).

A Fostex FR-2 LE will give you phantom power, decent preamps (spectacular preamps by camcorder standards), and manual controls. The extra time in post is a small price to pay for the dramatic improvement in quality and control. The cruel fact of the matter is that however many gadgets you put on the front end of a GL1, it'll never sound half as good as an entry-level flash recorder like the Zoom H4.
 
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Well, while the GL-1 only takes mic-level in, the boxes all send mic level out.

AGC on the GL-1 can and should be turned off. You're flying blind without level meters on the camera, but if you get an active converter box that has even rudimentary meters, you'll be a step ahead of where you were. Yes, this camera has a bunch of audio shortcomings, but the Beachtek or the Juicedlink are necessary. Double-system would be heaps better, but if you are a one-man run-and-gun operation, you do what you have to do.

I used to have a GL-1. Sold it, bought a DVX, never looked back.
 
AGC on the GL-1 can and should be turned off.
I wasn't aware that the GL-1 had manual audio controls. Thanks for the correction.

Double-system would be heaps better, but if you are a one-man run-and-gun operation, you do what you have to do.
One-man-band shooting doesn't neccessarily preclude double-system shooting. A Zoom H4 doesn't weigh much more than the first generation of Beachtek adapters, although slating and maintaining synch can be a challeng.

Here's a bit of a kludge that will give you the benefits of both stlyes: slap a 30dB pad onto the line output of a flash recorder, and feed that into the camera's mic input. Going this route, its a pretty simple (if time-consuming) matter to match the clean flash recording up to the grittier (though similar) guide track on the tape. You can even make a DIY unballanced cable with a built in line-to-mic pad with even rudimentary soldering skills.
 
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