Looking to add on to my light kit.

[Michael Carter]

I have used these Chinese made Biax Diva knock-offs. And while they can offer good bang for the buck, I have found that many of them use cheaper ballasts which die and need replacing.

Just something to think about.

I've got knockoffs from FloLite and two different chinese ebay no-names. I've used the living hell out of 'em. Knock on wood, but yet to replace a lamp or have ballast trouble. They've had a hard life, too... cases tipping over, shooting music vids where the band are volunteer "grips", etc...

The issues I've had are more in the robustness department... one of my barndoor hinges fell off (pop riveter repair though). One of my units uses the standard computer power cable, but the receptacle isn't a great fit and the cord can pop out. Usually add some slack and tape the cable to the yoke, etc. Had a yoke-to-stand knob fail, tapped the hole for 1/4-20 and stuck a "real" steel t-handle in it. (In this biz, forget the obsessive lighting talk - the best thing you can own is a $90 Harbor Freight drill press and 1/4-20 and 3/8 taps...)

Considering you can buy a unit for the price of a week's Kino rental, I figure they're almost disposable. But my newest models are three years old now...

 

[Patryk_Rebisz]

Add a decent 1x1 LED (or two) so you can do daylight when needed (look into used on ebay - used name brand is better than new off brand).
Slowly start replacing your off brand gear: make sure you have Arris and Moles as your tungsten - no need to waste your precious money on junk. Again look into used section of ebay.
Get yourself a quality rolling case for your kit.
Get yourself a rolling cart when you get a few more items.
Get yourself 2x c-stand and flag kit and a few sandbags.

Afterwards, the lights will change depending on what you shoot most.

Bottom line: it seems you are set it will be your career, so don't waste your energy, time and money on junk anymore.

 

[akaiwa]

I've got knockoffs from FloLite and two different chinese ebay no-names. I've used the living hell out of 'em. Knock on wood, but yet to replace a lamp or have ballast trouble. They've had a hard life, too... cases tipping over, shooting music vids where the band are volunteer "grips", etc...

I can second on recommending Flolights. I've used my flourestent bank kits on literally hundreds of shoots and they've been amazing. They've taken a lot of beatings and falls without any issues. I've had to replace maybe two tubes the entire time I've had them and they're wayyyy lighter and thinner they are than KinoFlos.

 

[Michael Carter]

I can second on recommending Flolights. I've used my flourestent bank kits on literally hundreds of shoots and they've been amazing. They've taken a lot of beatings and falls without any issues. I've had to replace maybe two tubes the entire time I've had them and they're wayyyy lighter and thinner they are than KinoFlos.

Akaiwa, do you find a yellow cast with the stock biax tubes when shooting daylight (not white balanced to the flos)?

I test all my daylight stuff using raw stills and photoshop to see what gel combos give me a neutral gray, black, and white. All of my chinese biax need some violet - I think 1/4 CTB and 1/8 minus green. I mark the gel combos needed on tape (on the fixture) or on globe boxes.

For comparison, my Alzo 150 watt CDMs just need 1/8 minus green, but only if you're being super anal;
Cool Lights 150 CDM, about the same as the Alzo;
My 400 watt Mogul Aquarium ballast setup needs 1/2 CTO (about the same as most HMIs). (Those are cheap monsters, too - and work great with photoflex starlights, about 1200 - 1500 watt equivalent at 6500k. You'd need over 2k of tungsten with CTB to get that.)

I've yet to see an affordable LED that people aren't fighting the gel wars with, though the new Alzos seem promising.