Lighting & Focus with the HVX200

Beanstalk

New member
Hey All,

I've read several posts regarding some of these issues, but haven't found any solid answers.

The Situation:
I shoot a fitness and cooking show where the main portion of the show is in the kitchen with throws to segments. The way the show shoots has me on hand-held for the entire kitchen segment (which is about 3-5 minutes long) while the hosts chat and cook. No cutaways.

Critically difficult setup for a TV show, I know. But I'm the camera operator, not the producer.

The Problems:
(1) LIGHTING
The hosts are a married couple, but here's the catch: the husband is very dark skinned black, while the wife is very fair skinned white.
My Current Solution:
I light the majority of the kitchen using KinoFlo Parabeams and try to keep the hosts from crossing one another's paths because he needs more light and her less. As it happens, of course, she does walk into his light and gets blown out.
I added an amber gel ("bastard amber" for the curious and childish ... like me) to help bring out his skin tones with less light. That worked, but the white balance on her gets thrown off, so she looks pinkish. If I gel all the lights and balance to that colour, the gel becomes useless.

(2) FOCUS
Though I light the kitchen as best as I can, it's still a consumer open-concept setup, which means no lighting grid available and only 9-foot ceilings. The background is 1 stop darker than the foreground.
The HVX shoots at about f/4.0 in this setup, but goes out of focus every now and then when using the autofocus feature. I try to move the camera at a steady speed and avoid tight macro to medium-focus distance shots in a short span. Manual focus control while hand-held and using the LCD screen is about as accurate as guessing how many jelly beans are in the jar.

MY SITUATION
It needs to be taken into account that not only are the segments 3-5 minutes long without cutaways, but also that I'm going hand-held. Manual control of the iris and the focus ring (while monitoring the audio) is perhaps not realistic. I have tried, but the camera steadiness or the fluidness of the changes is certainly affected.

THE REQUEST
Has anyone come across similar challenges using the HVX? Have you noticed issues with regards to the autofocus in a similar lighting setup (shooting around f/4.0)? Any recommendations for a lighting scenario that allows both hosts to be clearly seen, while mobile, without lighting that is too dim or over-blown?
I've thought about using an ND gradient matte, but since I take shots of the food regularly, and the hosts move often, and there's no cutaways, the effect would definitely be noticeable.
Any help is appreciated. The Producer is on me every week for these issues and I'm out of ideas.
Thanks plenty, ladies & gents.
 
Without getting too specific:

Feed your mics to a mixer with a limiter on and give up having to futz with it.

I would use manual focus, light flatly with some nice accents and try and go for ONE aperture for everything. Then shoot almost everything wide as it happens and get inserts LATER.

Make sure you're set up to get the widest possible dynamic range with the camera and if your lighting is even everywhere you should be fine. If someone gets a little bright or a little dark, they can be tweaked in post as long as you don't have both issues in the frame at the same time which you might want to avoid too much of.

.
 
It's going to sound as though I'm trying to be difficult, but please bear with me.

There is no option of adding inserts later, or tweaking in post. The Producer doesn't want any time added in post that isn't absolutely necessary - mainly due to excessive time restraints.

I think I'll try shooting with the Gain up by 6db to give me a broader depth of field and arrange the gelled Parabeam with flags and aim it to hit only the darker skinned host, who moves less than the other.

Hopefully, that'll do it.
 
Gain up = more contrast

Otherwise, the producer is squeezing you a little too hard I'd say. I mean, there is a point at which you are risking giving them less than what they might expect and in essence screwing yourself.

I'd be very leery of letting a "producer" tell me what is and what isn't necessary but it sounds like image quality isn't the primary goal anyway.

.
 
Chris, and others if you can help me here, I have a question and don't want to hijack this thread but thought it would be relevant here. If not don't shoot me! haha.

I co-own a production company, mainly act as producer / director, and we're not one of those fly-by-night groups of filmmakers who offer to make "professional work" for $500. I mean, we just can't do that. We want at least a skeleton professional crew, we have $75,000 in pro gear (shooting with HVX200s for now which works great for music videos / ads / etc., RedRock M2 adapter and 35mm lenses, etc.).

Anyway, I would be hesitant to put together a crew without at least a DP, a 1st A.C., a gaffer, two grips, and my editor / equipment manager (because he knows how all of the gear works, he can double as a third grip to help unload equipment, he's basically part of our team but not part of the company's ownership) who deals with the P2 cards on set. My question is, how often do you see people shooting with the HVX200 without a 1st A.C.? I mean is that even realistic? As a producer and director, without a background in cinematography besides extensive reading on forums, about cameras, tinkering around with cameras like the XL-1s, XL-2, XH-A1, HVX200, etc., I don't know how essential it is to have a 1st A.C. on set. We've always had one so far and I thought it was important to making sure our shots were in focus, and also we had a great 1st A.C. last time who did the white balancing, camera settings, basically a total technical guru.

If we were trying to compete at a lower budget level and cut down the crew further, can you even get professional results with a DP who is also a camera operator and pulling focus? I'm really reluctant to go that route because our company demands professional results and I'd rather turn down a project than take one with an insufficient budget to do pro work. But any advice would be great...
 
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