Kino Flo rigged with 2 gobo arms... dangerous?

[timtorpedo]

Hey guys,

have a last minute project, low budget, in a small room.

I would like to hang a kino 4ft 4bank above a bed, and need to hang it high because we would "ideally" rogar-Dum(DBG): want to get a wide shot. We don't have the room for a menace arm rogar-Mark-07(DBG), so was thinking of using an additional gobo arm to the existing c-stand to extend the reach :costumed-smiley-047, and sand bagging the other end as a counter weight... :thumbsup:

Will it be potentially hazardous considering the weight of the kino? :huh: I Know it is ok with a small tungsten, not sure with this fixture...


Thanks for the input. rogar-Vampire(DBG)

 

[slondon]

Hey guys,

have a last minute project, low budget, in a small room.

I would like to hang a kino 4ft 4bank above a bed, and need to hang it high because we would "ideally" rogar-Dum(DBG): want to get a wide shot. We don't have the room for a menace arm rogar-Mark-07(DBG), so was thinking of using an additional gobo arm to the existing c-stand to extend the reach :costumed-smiley-047, and sand bagging the other end as a counter weight... :thumbsup:

Will it be potentially hazardous considering the weight of the kino? :huh: I Know it is ok with a small tungsten, not sure with this fixture...


Thanks for the input. rogar-Vampire(DBG)

I've got a couple of four foot four bank Kinos and I sometimes double gobo arms like you're talking about with light weight fixtures but my gut tells me it's much too heavy to be safe.

Can you screw the fixture to the ceiling and fix the holes later with tooth paste? Can you get a wall spreader or a couple of autopoles in? If you have room for a C-stand why don't you have room for a menace arm? You might need to cut the speedrail down from what you have but it's not too expensive. That's the option I like.

 

[timtorpedo]

That is what my guts tell me. I may just go with a tungsten balanced for daylight and take the hit with the light loss....

Can't do the menace arm because of the way that apartment is set up.

I am not sure that the owner is ok that I put wholes in his ceiling, could be a last resort solution though, thanks!

 

[slondon]

Gotcha.

How about a China ball with daylight CFLs? You can arm that out with coupled gobo arms.

BTW, may I ask why the fixture over head? Daylight usually streams in pretty much on the level, through windows.

 

[RyanT]

I don't think I quite understand why you can't menace arm. If you can do a super arm, there's not much reason why you can do a menace arm. Is it because you need it sucked right up against the wall?

Your options are, in order of awesomeness:

2x4 Wall spreader
Goal post
Menace arm
Pole cat
2 c-stand arms.

There are probably more options, but we would need to see the space first. If you do decide to go to the c-stand arm route, use a double or triple rise combo and only go up on the bottom riser. Having that much weight so far out and not counterbalanced will bend the stand.

I'm guessing he wants to mount it overhead for a soft ambient light in the room...right?

 

[timtorpedo]

I did not want to use China balls because of the weak throw. The fixture overhead is for a soft overhead as RyanT said. We will see windows in the shot, so I may ND them a bit, the kino will simulate the daylight bouncing of the ceiling.

I have no clue what is a Goal post, or how to use a pole cat... Could you give me more detail about Them?

The menace is a tough one because the ceiling is not very high, and there is a beam in the ceiling that would force me to keep the menace arm at an inefficient high...

Thanks for all your input, I appreciate very much!

 

[Paul Hudson]

Way to dangerous for cast, crew and gear. You are over greatly extending the load of arms are intended for. The very best you can hope for is bent c-stand arms, the worst...well...

 

[slondon]

A beam in the ceiling? Now that sounds interesting. Can you get a big studded C-clamp on it? To protect the surface and get high friction on grabs like that I use a piece of that thin green padding that goes underneath a Pergo floor. It pads but it's also almost sticky so it's good to protect things you clamp on while also making the clamp adhere better.

Also, is there a practical in the ceiling? I'd consider taking the diffuser off that and putting a cluster of four or eight hundred watt equivalent daylight CFLs up there. You can also see if the junction box behind it is mounted solely in the wallboard or, much more likely, it's connected to a ceiling joist, in which case you can hang stuff from it. You might even safety to it if you decide to clamp to the beam.

 

[Bruce Watson]

I would like to hang a kino 4ft 4bank above a bed, and need to hang it high because we would "ideally" rogar-Dum(DBG): want to get a wide shot. We don't have the room for a menace arm rogar-Mark-07(DBG), so was thinking of using an additional gobo arm to the existing c-stand to extend the reach :costumed-smiley-047, and sand bagging the other end as a counter weight... :thumbsup:

Don't know if this would work in your situation -- just trying to think out of the box. How about a couple of Manfrotto Autopoles? Use them to make a miniature light grid across the ceiling. Use two-bys on the walls where the autopole feet hit to spread the force out so you don't punch holes in the sheetrock. Then hang the instrument from the makeshift grid like you would with any normal grid. This would at least put the Kino right up on the ceiling. Just a thought.

 

[RyanT]

I did not want to use China balls because of the weak throw. The fixture overhead is for a soft overhead as RyanT said. We will see windows in the shot, so I may ND them a bit, the kino will simulate the daylight bouncing of the ceiling.

I have no clue what is a Goal post, or how to use a pole cat... Could you give me more detail about Them?

The menace is a tough one because the ceiling is not very high, and there is a beam in the ceiling that would force me to keep the menace arm at an inefficient high...

Thanks for all your input, I appreciate very much!

A goal post is a piece of pipe that is grabbed at both ends by stands, usually by pipe ears, but sometimes by cardelinni's or anything else you can grab it with. Then you can hang your kino in the middle with a pipe clamp or cardelinni on the pipe.

A pole cat is a extendable pole that you when you lock in place, it pushes outwards against the wall, so it's like a wall spreader. Same thing as an autopole.

You've been holding out on us though! A beam! Rig to that. Use a c-clamp or a speed c. Still need pictures to tell you more though...

 

[slondon]

A goal post is a piece of pipe that is grabbed at both ends by stands, usually by pipe ears, but sometimes by cardelinni's or anything else you can grab it with. Then you can hang your kino in the middle with a pipe clamp or cardelinni on the pipe.

Yah, and Mafers are good too in this application on the stands and obviously, you need a grip head to hold the Kino. Be sure to clamp onto the narrow part of the stud and safety this rig to the pipe. If it dropped you wouldn't kill anybody but you'd die of embarrassment.