Just got a new camera - Sony F35

a shootout would be very interesting. Anyone with both that could do it? Haha.

How many hours is everyone's camera at... wondering if 2500+ is a lot for this camera. Aha
 
I think last I checked mine was ~1200hrs... Seems like an arbitrary measure of age though considering abuse can come in many forms like heat, humidity, vibration, impact, moisture, etc. The internals on these things seem solid. I might crack mine open and blow out some dust but if the mechanicals are good hours don't mean much.
 
NorBro said:
Yea, it's harsh. It's at best 11/11.5 stops. The 4.6K's DR is much better.
Click to expand...

Well, the specs tell us that. But I had an Ursa Mini 4.6k shooting B-Cam alongside the F35 on a film, and rated at 800 ISO, the Ursa's highlights seemed to clip out both sooner and harsher than the F35 rated at 400 ISO (which according to specs should have 3-4 stops less dynamic range than the newer Blackmagic).

So unless the entirety of the extra range purely in the shadows (which I suppose is possible), I'd be wary of what those specs actually mean.
 
The DR claims these companies are boasting about reminds me of Volkswagen's dieselgate.. Considering it would be a hard case for any watchdog org to force a company to issue recalls, it's borderline brilliant marketing to just inflate the DR values and colorimetry science since any schmuck with cash to burn will believe it'll improve his farmers market recap video or his cousin Danny's future bass "visual album"
 
Even if there is one you will only be able to if you power through the lemo port. If not a cable could probably be made. I believe viddovation posted the specs for the port a while ago.
 
Convergent Design sells a bare lead cable (Odyssey connector on one end, 36" cable with bare wire on the other labelled + & -). From that you can make a cable to your accessory port.
 
So I got my F35 in. There was something loose so I opened it up to check it out. Thankfully it was just a screw. Cant find where the screw goes though.

Unfortunately, When I turned it on with lens cap off this is what I was getting.
777f1743ea9991a831e02bd7e5d27baa.jpg

Anyone know what the issue is?
 
Mine had a loose screw floating around on the inside when I got it. Never figured out where it went either..
As for your screen grab. Save for a bit of dust, it just looks like you're missing a lens?
 
Aha, Im just hoping the loose screw didn't knock anything around.

Here a picture of the sensor and picture of a screen grab. Note I only have a Helios with PL adapter on me right now.

229c48d903f5ec397fb62dde9a721324.jpg

a1a0a5843d4eaede406423d5539d2b0c.jpg
 
JChang said:
Aha, Im just hoping the loose screw didn't knock anything around.

Here a picture of the sensor and picture of a screen grab. Note I only have a Helios with PL adapter on me right now.
Click to expand...

I think camera works fine but the sesnsor block lost its place. On the pictute you see the edge of your pl mount! Somebody tried to remove this sensor block or the packing was bad. You have to open the camera and fix the ccd block.
 
If that's what you are getting with the lens on and focused, there's probably either something wrong with your lens or your camera... Was it working correctly before you opened it?

Here is a link to a video on switching out the front plate. Might come in handy in diagnosing what might be wrong or finding where the loose screw goes...
https://vimeo.com/189238887
 
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DarkMatter said:
there's probably either something wrong with your lens or your camera...
Click to expand...

The edge of the picture is green, so we see the edge of the ir cut filter (it is green).It is not the lens problem, it is a sensor position problem. Return the sensor box on its place and fix it with the loosen screws.
The video is very usefull, thanx!
 
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