Just got a new camera - Sony F35

hunter richards said:
Very easy fix- put PL lens cap on- push the black balance switch- wait for it to complete- should be gone then. If not try it again. Mac suggested a black balance once per shoot day. Ive seen a few dead pixels pop up and this wipes them clean for me.
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I don't think you need to put a lens cap on, the F35 has an electronic shutter that closes when you performe the black balance.
I'm pretty sure your stuck pixels will be gone once you do several black balances.
Specially after flying, I got a few hot pixels too. They're all gone now.
 
Thank you gents.
i only tried 1 black balance. I'm off to sleep and will try again in the morning.

Mac, I haven't forgotten to take pics of the Nikon mount.
 
opinions clearly vary but I would always cap a camera if black balancing - my f900 would close the iris to do it too
 
Thanks for posting the footage James! I noticed some aliasing on the fine pencil lines and on the notebook bindings on the downloaded file; was this footage originally interlaced?
 
Hi Barrett,

No the original footage is 25p, but when I compressed it down it seems to have acquired aliasing lines. The original footage is pin sharp, I'll see if there's a way of posting a still

JM
 
James..
That's really not bad at all for a single 40 watt bulb and a 2.8 fstop. The noise doesn't bump me that much and a little de-noise in post will clean that right up. For a camera that is supposedly low-light challenged, that's actually really quite good. Pleasantly surprised.
 
keithlango said:
James..
That's really not bad at all for a single 40 watt bulb and a 2.8 fstop. The noise doesn't bump me that much and a little de-noise in post will clean that right up. For a camera that is supposedly low-light challenged, that's actually really quite good. Pleasantly surprised.
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Exactly where is this lowlight challenged idea coming from.
 
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macgregor said:
Exactly where is this lowlight challenged idea coming from.
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It's all relative, I suppose. :D Several folks have commented that compared to the F3, the F35 is a wee bit light challenged (F3 being a good low-light B-cam to the F35 A-cam, etc.). I'll have to take their word for it. My F35 definitely doesn't see in the dark anywhere as well as my FS100 did, but jeesh, few cameras do. However the trade off in image quality FAR more than makes up for that loss in sensitivity. That's a trade I'll make any day. And of course compared to the new F55 everything seems light challenged. Basically, the specs on the new toys keep re-defining what "good in low light" means.
Practically speaking, though... this beastie is no slouch.
 
Quick white balance question:
The user manual says that in CINE-EI mode:

"On the second line, the color temperature is selected from TUNGSTEN or DAYLIGHT. With DAYLIGHT, electrical gain of 5600K is ON. At shipment, the gain is set to 0 dB, and the color temperature is set to TUNGSTEN. The white balance adjustment value is fixed at the preset value (3200K)."

That's not terribly clear. You can choose between Tungsten and Daylight, but it's locked at Tungsten. Huh what?

Diddling around with the sub-display I see I can change the WB to 5600 DAYLIGHT in CINE-EI S-LOG. When I do that the display changes in my VF to show a different WB color. All good so far. But the VF's alert (little light with the ! next to it) comes on orange. I don't have a user manual for the HDVF-C35W so I dunno if that's a real problem or not. Maybe it's just some LUT warning. I don't know. I can definitely see a change in the WB color in my VF, so I'm assuming the camera is doing what I want and shifting the WB.
I don't have a way of testing it just yet, though, because my Hyperdeck is out on loan and I don't get it back til Tuesday (all weekend I've been messing with the camera, getting used to the menus, rigging it up, etc.- but I haven't been able to actually record anything yet. It's a terrible tease, I tell you. )

Anyhow- down to my question: can you change the WB settings in CINE-EI S-LOG mode to 5600k DAYLIGHT and have it stick for recording or not? I'm assuming you can and that the little warning light on my VF is an unrelated bit of silliness.

Thanks for your patience...
-k
 
+1. Yes, you can change it back and forth from the PAINT menu (P01). You basically just turn 5600K on and off.
All the menus are accessible (and easier to troll) from a laptop. Set the IP on the camera, plug it into your network and enter the camera's IP on your browser.
For me, it's much easier to see them this way.
 
Yep...what a disappointment. It seems like they are just scrambling to get something out by NAB. What good is 444 input going to a 422 CODEC?
Come on AJA.
 
Keith-

You can turn off VF warnings in the menu- but back to your question- yes 5600k gets recorded.

Here is what is happening:
Normally most ccd or cmos sensors are balanced natively to daylight, on those cameras- when you switch to tungsten, you see a 2x noise spike in the blue channel. The f35 is unique in that it is one of the few large sensor cameras where the sensor is natively Tungsten balanced. Im guessing this was done as the f35 and genesis were designed as a film replacement for studio based TV/Films (with many of those at the time shooting fast tungsten film on sound stages).

So theoretically, when you switch the f35 to daylight, your using the DSP to process the tungsten image to 5600k- this makes a spike in the red channel (opposite effect as on daylight native camera) but because you have much more light usually in daylight settings- you shouldn't visibly notice the red noise spike (I dont) but you can notice if viewing an RGB parade.

So back to why the camera is giving you a warning- I think if you were to shoot daylight on the f35 the intended way, you would pretend the camera was loaded with fast tungsten film and throw an 85 filter into the mattebox and get to work outside (very common practice for film shooters). Hope that helps answer your question.
 
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