Just got a new camera - Sony F35
- Thread starter macgregor
- Start date
bill totolo
Veteran
Explain that horizontal streak...
Samuel H
Major Contributor
There's no need to try to convince us any further that you can shoot amazing images with this camera. We are all already convinced. Now you're just being mean and making everybody envy you 
More seriously, I'll add: apart from your tests, one movie I watched recently made me realize how great the images from this camera can look: Under the Hawthorn Tree, by Zhang Yimou. Not the best movie I've seen (I'd give it a 6 out of 10), but it looks absolutely gorgeous, I spent the whole time thinking "wow this looks so great, definitely shot on film, digital still has a long way to go", then went to IMDB to check... http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1554523/technical
More seriously, I'll add: apart from your tests, one movie I watched recently made me realize how great the images from this camera can look: Under the Hawthorn Tree, by Zhang Yimou. Not the best movie I've seen (I'd give it a 6 out of 10), but it looks absolutely gorgeous, I spent the whole time thinking "wow this looks so great, definitely shot on film, digital still has a long way to go", then went to IMDB to check... http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1554523/technical
Samuel H
Major Contributor
Of course, cinematographer and crew and colorist and everything else have a lot to do with that: I've seen films shot on RED which looked awfully digital, and also some that look gorgeous (the best one, probably, The Secret in Their Eyes, http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1305806/ http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1305806/technical http://blog.vincentlaforet.com/2010/05/13/run-dont-walk-to-see-this-film/ really great movie apart from the looks: made in Argentina with a $2M budget, worldwide box office $34M, Oscar for Best Foreign Language Film)
macgregor
Veteran
bill totolo
Veteran
When do we get to see some flesh tones?
Keep up the good work (and try to keep warm).
Keep up the good work (and try to keep warm).
Greyfus Wolf
Active member
I was just wondering how did you get everything to work together on it ?
What other than the camera itself do you need for a minimum working shooting setup and how long does the camera take to boot up ?
Sorry for asking so much I was just wondering because the footage that comes out of this camera is amazing
What other than the camera itself do you need for a minimum working shooting setup and how long does the camera take to boot up ?
Sorry for asking so much I was just wondering because the footage that comes out of this camera is amazing
macgregor
Veteran
Well. If you just get the body only what you're going to need is:
- batteries
- battery plate
- recorder
- viewfinder
For batteries I opted for Vmount and I got 2 big batteries plus a charger for like $1200. Each battery runs the camera for about... maybe 90 minutes? Actually maybe more than that, but have in mind that I'm powering other things with the same battery.
Battery plate for Vmount batteries, you can get it at bhphoto or ebay. It was like $120-150 I think.
Recorder, easiest and most convinient for me was the hyperdeck shuttle: $320. And add as many SDDs as you want. I have Crucials 128GB for like $95 and you can record more than an hour of footage in each.
Minimum package add ons then: $2500 aprox (but can change depending on what you already have).
With this, you're ready to go out and shoot. Of course you'll need lenses but that's a different subject.
I then wanted some kind of rods support for a follow focus and a shoulder pad. But I wanted a very lightweight kit, so I ruled out the arri, crosszield, red and element technica solutions. And I ended up getting a lamparte base plate which includes a shoulder pad ($350)which I modified a bit to make it smaller and a quickrelease sony plate ($120).
I'm also working in getting rid of the breackoutbox, but waiting on a lemo connector to see if it can be done.
- batteries
- battery plate
- recorder
- viewfinder
For batteries I opted for Vmount and I got 2 big batteries plus a charger for like $1200. Each battery runs the camera for about... maybe 90 minutes? Actually maybe more than that, but have in mind that I'm powering other things with the same battery.
Battery plate for Vmount batteries, you can get it at bhphoto or ebay. It was like $120-150 I think.
Recorder, easiest and most convinient for me was the hyperdeck shuttle: $320. And add as many SDDs as you want. I have Crucials 128GB for like $95 and you can record more than an hour of footage in each.
Minimum package add ons then: $2500 aprox (but can change depending on what you already have).
With this, you're ready to go out and shoot. Of course you'll need lenses but that's a different subject.
I then wanted some kind of rods support for a follow focus and a shoulder pad. But I wanted a very lightweight kit, so I ruled out the arri, crosszield, red and element technica solutions. And I ended up getting a lamparte base plate which includes a shoulder pad ($350)which I modified a bit to make it smaller and a quickrelease sony plate ($120).
I'm also working in getting rid of the breackoutbox, but waiting on a lemo connector to see if it can be done.
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Greyfus Wolf
Active member
Oh thank you very much for the information
I already have some v-mount batteries and a switronix v-mount plate from using the RED Scarlet in the past so they should probably work well, but the connector is a Lemo - http://woodencamera.corecommerce.com/QB-Switronix-V-Mount.html
Wonder if that would fit in the DC-in of the F35 ....
As for lenses well, I don't know if there are any cheap PL mount lenses available other than the rehoused RED 18-50mm T3 zoom, I think I saw some going for less than $3000, would be great if the mount was detachable and interchangable
Noticed from the pictures you posted above that you have attached the interface box on the back of the camera, is that compulsory for shooting with the camera or can it be removed if not needed ?
Also any idea how long it takes to boot up the camera from cold ?
I already have some v-mount batteries and a switronix v-mount plate from using the RED Scarlet in the past so they should probably work well, but the connector is a Lemo - http://woodencamera.corecommerce.com/QB-Switronix-V-Mount.html
Wonder if that would fit in the DC-in of the F35 ....
As for lenses well, I don't know if there are any cheap PL mount lenses available other than the rehoused RED 18-50mm T3 zoom, I think I saw some going for less than $3000, would be great if the mount was detachable and interchangable
Noticed from the pictures you posted above that you have attached the interface box on the back of the camera, is that compulsory for shooting with the camera or can it be removed if not needed ?
Also any idea how long it takes to boot up the camera from cold ?
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macgregor
Veteran
Your Vmount plate should work, except for the cable. But that connector is really easy to replace, you'll need to change the lemo for a power XLR cable. $5 and done.
About lenses, I got a bunch of zeiss glass in PL mount for cheap (medium format lenses) but I haven't played with it yet since they are in LA and I'm overseas right now.
However I had a nikon mount custom built so I can use Nikon glass in the camera. Pretty awesome and easier than I thought to build. The mount is actually detachable, not something you want to do every day, but totally doable. So I have two mounts, nikon and PL.
The breackout box, you can put it behind or on top. The reason why you need it is because that's where the Vmount battery plate attaches to and where one of the 2 input power connectors are located. It's lightweight tough. You can remove it if you find a way to attach the battery and that's what I'm currently investigating.
The camera takes about 5-8 seconds to boot up. I've shot in Iceland at -5 C and it was fine.
About lenses, I got a bunch of zeiss glass in PL mount for cheap (medium format lenses) but I haven't played with it yet since they are in LA and I'm overseas right now.
However I had a nikon mount custom built so I can use Nikon glass in the camera. Pretty awesome and easier than I thought to build. The mount is actually detachable, not something you want to do every day, but totally doable. So I have two mounts, nikon and PL.
The breackout box, you can put it behind or on top. The reason why you need it is because that's where the Vmount battery plate attaches to and where one of the 2 input power connectors are located. It's lightweight tough. You can remove it if you find a way to attach the battery and that's what I'm currently investigating.
The camera takes about 5-8 seconds to boot up. I've shot in Iceland at -5 C and it was fine.
macgregor
Veteran
Wow, I'm surprised. I just put the camera in a weight scale, with everything as shown in the pictures (shoulder pad, zoom lens, battery, hyperdeck, viewfinder, follow focus) and it's... 10 Kgs! Exactly 10 Kgs, 22 pounds.
A red one fully loaded used to be way more than that. And Alexa... well the alexa is a bag of concrete. :cheesy:
A red one fully loaded used to be way more than that. And Alexa... well the alexa is a bag of concrete. :cheesy:
Greyfus Wolf
Active member
That's pretty good weight for a shooting setup for a 4 year old + camera and yeah the Alexa already weighs 10 KG body alone so...
macgregor
Veteran
In order to convert the PL mount into nikon you have to "destroy" the PL mount. THe new nikon mount is going to fit inside the PL mount so you need to remove a bit of metal and add some support from behind. Definately a work for a professional unless you're talented and have the gear for this. It's actually simple to make if you have the knowledge.
If you want to keep the PL mount then you'll need to purchase another PL mount to have it converted to Nikon, so you can swap one with the other depending on the project.
I just got a 2nd body. At current prices (cheaper than F3 or C300) this is the bargain of the century. Sure it's a 4 year old camera, but don't let that fool you. It's in a different league in terms of image quality.
If you want to keep the PL mount then you'll need to purchase another PL mount to have it converted to Nikon, so you can swap one with the other depending on the project.
I just got a 2nd body. At current prices (cheaper than F3 or C300) this is the bargain of the century. Sure it's a 4 year old camera, but don't let that fool you. It's in a different league in terms of image quality.
mlysbakken
Well-known member
So did you send the camera to someone for converting, or is it possible to just order the custom nikon mount and install it yourself? I believe you have the swapable system, right?
Thanks for all the posts and sample footage! I bought an f35 today - can't wait to put it through its paces.
Thanks for all the posts and sample footage! I bought an f35 today - can't wait to put it through its paces.
macgregor
Veteran
I had it custom made at a lens shop. What I did was ordering a Nikon-EOS mount on ebay and then have that attached inside the PL mount. Since the flange focal distance in PL is larger than Nikon, they have to remove a bit of metal. I had two mounts, so I didn't mind "destroying" one of them to make it into a nikon mount.
The F35 has a great and easy to use flange focal distance adjustment screw, so together with a collimator, you can absolutely match the right distance to the sensor.
The F35 has a great and easy to use flange focal distance adjustment screw, so together with a collimator, you can absolutely match the right distance to the sensor.
mlysbakken
Well-known member
Thanks! I'll look into that. I just sent an email to a Norwegian lens shop to get a price estimate from them.
In what way did you modify the Lanparte baseplate, by the way? I presume it would be unsafe to mount the f35 directly to the little quick-release plate, seeing as it's a small one made for dlsrs?
In what way did you modify the Lanparte baseplate, by the way? I presume it would be unsafe to mount the f35 directly to the little quick-release plate, seeing as it's a small one made for dlsrs?
macgregor
Veteran
Correct. What I did was remove the small DSLR quickrelease plate and base, and then have the big flat plate attached to the bottom of the camera. The modification to it was making the holes big enough for a 3/8" screw. I also add a rubber pad in between camera and base plate.
The lens shop will need to see the mount in order to give you an estimate. ALso you have to decide if you want a Nikon G lens mount or a standard one. I say, it will be more simple and cheaper to go with the normal one. I have the G (which controls the iris too) but unless you have G lenses (planing on getting some rokinon and AIS?) it's not worth it, since the hours to make it work will be more.
Just ask them how much they charge per hour, and count on 4-8 hours of work depending on how fast they are. Add a nikon-eos adapter (20usd?)and 5 minutes in the collimator (remember to have the camera On since the mechanical shutter needs to be open). And done!
The lens shop will need to see the mount in order to give you an estimate. ALso you have to decide if you want a Nikon G lens mount or a standard one. I say, it will be more simple and cheaper to go with the normal one. I have the G (which controls the iris too) but unless you have G lenses (planing on getting some rokinon and AIS?) it's not worth it, since the hours to make it work will be more.
Just ask them how much they charge per hour, and count on 4-8 hours of work depending on how fast they are. Add a nikon-eos adapter (20usd?)and 5 minutes in the collimator (remember to have the camera On since the mechanical shutter needs to be open). And done!