Issues with lighting outside

R

RoadandDirt.com

Member
Well, I've been shooting with the camera for a while now. I am really struggling with the lighting. It's either too bright or too dark. Especially when it's overcast. I find myself constantly adjusting the the iris with the scrooling knob provided on the cam. during the race.

Also when the camera 1st turns on all the footage is kinda blueish, then within a minute or less the color comes in the way it should look. I can see that change in my capture footage too.

My camera lens has the wobble. I talked to panasonic, they say it does not effect my shot, and they said it just something customers have to gripe about. I'll get that fixed when I send it in for cleaning someday. it does not seem to effect anything.

Any suggestions to make my job easier handling the cams lighting at the track?
 
RoadandDirt.com said:
I find myself constantly adjusting the the iris with the scrooling knob provided on the cam. during the race.

Also when the camera 1st turns on all the footage is kinda blueish, then within a minute or less the color comes in the way it should look. I can see that change in my capture footage too.
Click to expand...

Gregg, welcome to the world of live event videography! Adjusting the iris is what professionals do to ge the best image. If you left it on auto you would not be happy with the results, so you have to "ride the iris".

This has nothing to do with your camera.

About the blue tone. Sounds like you might want to research manual white balance. It sounds like your camera is set to "auto white balance" and the colors are changing with changing conditions.

The best way to handle white balance is to set it manually in the lighting environment you will be shooting it. So if you will be shooting outdoors, hold something white in the sunlight or just outside and manually set the white balance.

Just like the manual iris, if conditions change, your would need to set it again.

Good luck and feel free to ask any more questions!

These are use questions, and will be be the same for any pro camera you come across.
 
Ok, I have to deal with it. Its more work then my old SD cam, but I still like using a card, and the quality is much better when shoot right.
I've been shooting live events for almost 10 years, switched to HMC150 for 2009.
 
What I've found works is to watch the video thru the eyepiece with my right eye, and then have the waveform monitor on the side display and use my left eye to monitor that. If things start to peak then I iris down or vice-versa. It's easier to do than it sounds. This way as I watch what I'm filming, I've got a way to see how the exposure is going. The Zebra stripes are useful, but nothing beats the waveform monitor for precision.

-Brian
 
I second Bassman, and feel your pain. I shot college sports until this past year. Try shooting college football with a shadow covering half the field on a partially sunny morning... that can get to be tricky.

Are you using the ND filters? And are you making use of the zebra pattern?
 
RoadandDirt.com said:
Well, I've been shooting with the camera for a while now. I am really struggling with the lighting. It's either too bright or too dark. Especially when it's overcast. I find myself constantly adjusting the the iris with the scrooling knob provided on the cam. during the race.

Also when the camera 1st turns on all the footage is kinda blueish, then within a minute or less the color comes in the way it should look. I can see that change in my capture footage too.

Any suggestions to make my job easier handling the cams lighting at the track?
Click to expand...

Lighting - Like the other posters replied, you have to constantly stay on top of the exposure. I think on the HMC-150 this is more pronounced than some cameras, it has a more pronounced contrast. Maybe it's because it has more sensitivity or dynamic range, I don't know. You can help control the harsh contrasts by setting up some scene files to your liking. The DRS or knee will help, depending on the mode you are filming in.

AWB - When you first turn on the camera, it will take at least one full minute for the AWB to stabilize. That's normal for the camera. In general, I would use the MWB, especially if you turn the camera on and off a lot.
 
Just try to avoid AWB. It is useful only on rare occasions.

You should rely on manual white balance or the 2 presets when using tungsten or day lights (HMI).
 
R and D.. did you get my email post yesterday.. Those things I stated will help but as people have said.. when dealing with HD, you have to ride things more.. anticipate and compensate. It isn't a point and shoot DV cam where things are all in one murky range and such... You'll get used to it though and you'll be able to deliver some stunning stuff when you do.

For me, jumping to HD 5 years ago was reminiscent to shooting film. The transition was easy and very welcomed... especially the manual lens option and the latitude and just the WOWs that you get from shooting HD.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top