GH2 Is it a hassle to use the hack?
- Thread starter Adamsenoj
- Start date
DPStewart
Veteran
Ha! No. If anything the opposite is true. You set it and forget it (for the most part).
I am using LPowell's FLOWMOTION v2.2 (for the newer Panasonic Firmware) It is a VERY high bit-rate hack that is proving to be stable and of the broadest range of uses.
You get the latest hack software from PersonalView.com (The guy who created it.) Then you download LPowell's hach-patch right from his signature, follow some easy directions - it's just a few steps - load your hack-patch onto an empty SD card, put a FULLY CHARGED battery in the camera, Put the card in the camera and turn it on. It will ask you to follow the prompts to load the firmware. You're done. You don't fiddle with anything after that. The GH2 just behaves normally - except you must use Sandisk Extreme class 10 SD Cards (or similar) for good reliability and now your "Turbo-GH2" will fill up those cards much faster...but that's it!
It's only fiddly if you want to create your own hack-patches...but why re-invent the wheel when so many brilliant guys have done the homework for us!
I am using LPowell's FLOWMOTION v2.2 (for the newer Panasonic Firmware) It is a VERY high bit-rate hack that is proving to be stable and of the broadest range of uses.
You get the latest hack software from PersonalView.com (The guy who created it.) Then you download LPowell's hach-patch right from his signature, follow some easy directions - it's just a few steps - load your hack-patch onto an empty SD card, put a FULLY CHARGED battery in the camera, Put the card in the camera and turn it on. It will ask you to follow the prompts to load the firmware. You're done. You don't fiddle with anything after that. The GH2 just behaves normally - except you must use Sandisk Extreme class 10 SD Cards (or similar) for good reliability and now your "Turbo-GH2" will fill up those cards much faster...but that's it!
It's only fiddly if you want to create your own hack-patches...but why re-invent the wheel when so many brilliant guys have done the homework for us!
It's not fiddly at all, but you need to use high performance memory cards to get the most out of the hack.
This is the memory card to get: SanDisk 64GB SDXC Memory Card Extreme Pro Class 10 UHS-I : $137 at B&H Photo
This is the memory card to get: SanDisk 64GB SDXC Memory Card Extreme Pro Class 10 UHS-I : $137 at B&H Photo
And it doesn't affect the way the camera operates at all?
Also, since the GH2 has neither zebras or waveform, what is the method you use to accurately expose? I have used the 7D for example and it has a function that flashes parts of the picture that are clipping. But you can't use it in video mode so you have to snap pictures to check and even if you could it's not really helpful. How do you do with the GH2?
Pricey. Can almost buy a 128GB SSD.
What about fader ND filters, which one is recommended? I heard the cheap ones cut down on sharpness.
Also, since the GH2 has neither zebras or waveform, what is the method you use to accurately expose? I have used the 7D for example and it has a function that flashes parts of the picture that are clipping. But you can't use it in video mode so you have to snap pictures to check and even if you could it's not really helpful. How do you do with the GH2?
Pricey. Can almost buy a 128GB SSD.
What about fader ND filters, which one is recommended? I heard the cheap ones cut down on sharpness.
@Adamsenoj
You can use the histogram to judge exposure, also me personally after shooting for so long I guess I can just tell by looking at my lcd screen, I never really thought it was so hard to properly expose? Regarding the high bit rate hacks it requires the faster memory cards for a reason. 128gb ssd hard drives are not used with video cameras ( outside of the BMC). Heck look at RED's 128gb hard drive which cost well over $1000. The hack is great, but comes at a very slight cost of memory cards and disk space. They have other hacks that provide better quality than stock but use the lower sdhc cards. Just do some reading and you will be fine.
You can use the histogram to judge exposure, also me personally after shooting for so long I guess I can just tell by looking at my lcd screen, I never really thought it was so hard to properly expose? Regarding the high bit rate hacks it requires the faster memory cards for a reason. 128gb ssd hard drives are not used with video cameras ( outside of the BMC). Heck look at RED's 128gb hard drive which cost well over $1000. The hack is great, but comes at a very slight cost of memory cards and disk space. They have other hacks that provide better quality than stock but use the lower sdhc cards. Just do some reading and you will be fine.
Flowmotion 2.2 is a great compromise. It's supposed to work with all class 10 cards. I shot a short film last week. Not a single crash. At one point I was shooting 3200 ISO in ETC mode, with lots of movement, filming someone on a Jetski late at night, on the 14-42 lens. Panasonic lenses, with their electronic camera communications, are supposed to be the most unstable. So that scenario was pretty challenging, but it never crashed once.
I have 32gb Sandisk Extreme Pro card.
I have 32gb Sandisk Extreme Pro card.
I wouldn't even call it a compromise. It is optimized to never have a quality failure. With the right memory card it never fails in any aspect. The question really is why wouldn't you use the hack? There are settings that will work with any card and there are better settings that will work with almost any card. It is win win.
Exposure: there's an unobstructive optional live histogram and spot meter that stay active while recording, and the GH2 also has the aforementioned flashing in the clipped portions that stays live while recording. I never really thought about it, but I've blown exposure more often on my AF100 (with all the video camera-y goodies) than I have the GH2.
I don't use fader ND's. I hate them. Those that I've tried ultimately soften the image, promote flaring and loss of contrast, and many introduce a color cast. When I need an ND, I go for the cheaper, better, old-school single density (+1, +4, or +8 are the usual suspects) or a polarizer.
notharrylume
Active member
DP Stewart: How do you get the "the newer Panasonic Firmware" if you don't have it? Thanks.
How can somebody blow exposure on a camera which has a waveform monitor for any other reason but operator error?
I don't like working with histograms as they don't really help much. They just give you some sort of a ball park, but nothing compared to a waveform. I guess exposing with the GH2 is easier to do with a proper calibrated monitor and eyeballing, unless you are run and gun and can't have a large monitor.
So you think normal screw on ND filters are better than fader ones? Is that what you meant?
No, other than the requirement for higher performance memory cards.
Depending on the mode you set and the subject you are filming, Lee Powell's excellent Flow-Motion v 2.02 patch can require a memory card that reliably writes at 130 Mb/sec under all conditions which is why cards like the 64 GB SDXC Sandisk 95 MB/sec one are required. ( the 64 GB SDXC card will span when filming longer events, where the 32 GB will not )
There is a histogram display, and you can set 100+ percent exposure sections to "flash" black. ( set * REC HILIGHT ON, found in section 3 of the MOTION PICTURE menu )
With practice I find that I can judge exposure just from looking at the camera's LCD screen. ( be sure to set CONSTANT PREVIEW ON, found in section 4 of the CUSTOM menu )
It's about the only card that will ALWAYS span at high bit-rates. I often shoot long events/interviews, so spanning is important to me.
I'm on the fence with fader ND filters, as even the best ones have issues. These filters can work really well with lenses up to 135mm in focal length. ( beyond this most get quite soft )
It's definitely worth owning at least one fader ND filter, but I would still carry around a set of standard ND filters as a back-up.
TIP: Metal filter stacking-caps are a very compact way to carry around a bunch of filters. ( just buy the size you need )
General Brand 52mm Filter Stack Cap : $11 at B&H Photo
General Brand 77mm Filter Stack Cap : $17 at B&H Photo
Yep... operator error, and "eyeballing" an LCD that was set too dark to begin with.
Generally, yes, when you have time to use them. Set the ND to compensate for ambient light and then ride the iris to expose. If conditions change often and drastically... well, life just isn't a bowl of peaches.
I designed and tested Flow Motion v2 to record and play back reliably in-camera in all GH2 video modes with standard 30MB/sec Class 10 SD cards. For extended-length recordings, 4GB file-spanning will work on all Class 10 cards in Flow Motion's 60Mbps 24L, FH , and H video modes. However, with 95MB/sec Class 10 SD cards, 4GB file-spanning will also work in Flow Motion's 100Mbps 24H, HBR, FSH, and SH modes (except for NTSC 30p HBR and FSH modes). For more details and Flow Motion v2 download info, check out this link:
GH2 100Mbps Flow Motion v2 Patch - Banding & Blocking Be Gone!
Just recorded a sermon yesterday, about 30 minutes, with FlowMotion 24L on an inexpensive Transcend Class 10 card. Not the first time.
Test your hack & card duo a few times (by recording an hour or so of whatever) before putting it into paid service and you'll usually be pleased.
Test your hack & card duo a few times (by recording an hour or so of whatever) before putting it into paid service and you'll usually be pleased.
I haven't used it for live events yet, but I have shot 2-3 hour university lectures on one 64GB Sandisk SDXC 95MB/sec card.
I've only experienced one minor glitch shooting with the 64GB Sandisk SDXC 95MB/sec card, where the camera would "stall" on the first press of the REC button, but worked perfectly when I pressed it a second time. This was with Driftwood's Quantum 100 patch. I've since switched to LPowell's FlowMotion v2.02 patch, and so far it's been flawless. First time, every time, even with very long recording times.
Wolfenbarg
Member
Unless you plan on changing the hack frequently or switching between different hacks for different jobs, you pretty much just set it and forget it. I have yet to find a reason not to use it. I have not even had a single error or crash.
awelgraven
Well-known member
If you're nervous about crashes during events, you can always switch to 24L instead of 24H. Less bitrate and all that, but more solid. I occasionally get stopped recordings with FlowMotion on class 10 cards, with m4/3 lenses (the kind with electronics), and higher ISOs.
So I switch from 24H to 24L and everything works great.
I'm sure i could get the really nice class 10 card, but I can't afford it right now, and FlowMotion 24L is still incredible compared to stock GH2 firmware.
So I switch from 24H to 24L and everything works great.
I'm sure i could get the really nice class 10 card, but I can't afford it right now, and FlowMotion 24L is still incredible compared to stock GH2 firmware.
Like Alex, I am using 24L (with 30mbs/32gb class 10 Sandisk cards) and have never had an issue. I have had an issue with the 24H setting stopping with a "write speed" error after 3-4 minutes so I only use that setting for short clips. The 24L setting is far better than the stock setting in my view and I was pretty happy with the stock setting so I am more than pleased with 24L and FM2.
DPStewart
Veteran
It was floating around here quite a bit when it came out.
Panasonic wants you to have it so it has been made readily available.
The NEW version is v1.1 - The old is v1.0
If you buy a GH2 new now it will probably have 1.1 on it already.
Can someone post a link to download the newer firmware please?
Thanks!