Is DSLR filming shot with manual focus or autofocus?

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nolankubrick

Member
I have a gh2 and have been practicing with it and I want to begin shooting a short film for practice, but first I am confused how the shooting is done.

Do most people shoot with manual focus or autofocus when shooting scenes, both, slow moving and action scenes?

Thanks
 
If you're practicing, then just practice -- you'll figure out what works for you.

In general, cinematic shooting never employs autofocus. And most DSLR shooters will never use it, because most DSLRs can't autofocus during video shooting -- they can only autofocus when shooting stills. The GH2 is unique in that it allows autofocus during video too, provided you're using an appropriately autofocusing lens.

Some folks will tell you NEVER AUTOFOCUS - "it's not professional"... but in reality it all depends on the shot. Autofocus is a tool that you can use when it's appropriate. For cinematic stuff, it's rarely appropriate, but hey, if it helps you make a better shot than you would get without it, it's there for you to use.
 
Barry_Green said:
If you're practicing, then just practice -- you'll figure out what works for you.

In general, cinematic shooting never employs autofocus. And most DSLR shooters will never use it, because most DSLRs can't autofocus during video shooting -- they can only autofocus when shooting stills. The GH2 is unique in that it allows autofocus during video too, provided you're using an appropriately autofocusing lens.

Some folks will tell you NEVER AUTOFOCUS - "it's not professional"... but in reality it all depends on the shot. Autofocus is a tool that you can use when it's appropriate. For cinematic stuff, it's rarely appropriate, but hey, if it helps you make a better shot than you would get without it, it's there for you to use.
Click to expand...

It is somewhat difficult for me to get a 'sharp' focus these days looking through the standard GH-1 viewfinder... in the olden days, one had a splitscreen focusing prism, or... just better eyesight...

So, these days I'll use the autofocus single to get the focus on the object of interest, then switch the setting to Manual focus to 'freeze' the focus... because at least for the GH1, 'autofocus single' would not fix the focus as the shutter is pressed, but continue to 'focus' if the object of interest moved, or during camera motion the object moved out of the 'focus' area.

With lenses that don't have Autofocus capability, that are used with the GH-1 and an adapter, the 'enlarged focusing' on the big LCD display works... but for the viewfinder... well... anyway...

A few months ago, I happened across some people flying gliders, and took the opportunity to 'practice' fast focusing both 'manual' and 'autofocus + frequent corretions'...

Having gone back to the site to practice more.
 
Two of the biggest issues with DSLR manual focus are proper monitoring and the fact that twisting the lens ring isn't the most ergonomic way to focus.

For monitoring, a loupe is a very popular solution, and they range from around $100 to under a grand. There's loads of info here and via google, but basically something that attaches decently to the camera can be a massive help, especially in the sun. The other option would be an external monitor, preferably with a hood. Many shooters end up with both, as there are times when you can't physically get your eye on a loupe due to the shot setup (a crane, a very low angle, a tight room, etc.) A trick I often use with a small monitor is to keep a pair of cheap reading glasses handy, which magnifies the screen. You can play with these in a drug store and see if there's a power level to the glasses that you find helpful.

To help with ergonomics and make focus moves repeatable, a follow focus is the pro way to go, especially one with a marking disc. This gets your focusing hand off to the side (or allows an assistant to pull focus if you have a monitor going). Most FF units require a rail system, though there are a few DSLR based models that mount to the tripod screw. I'd try to go with rails though. The Jag35 D|Focus is a very good unit for the $$.

With a follow focus, you can mark focus points on the disc that are keyed to the set - either places the camera will move to or places talent will move to. You often use tape marks on the floor, or things like "when the talent is next to the chair" - mental notes. Your assistant will turn the focus to match up with these points while monitoring to ensure fine-tuning.

A fantastic help if you don't have crew and someone capable of focusing is to use focus stops - things that limit the range of the follow focus. You set the follow focus so one end of travel is the closest focus point and the other is the farthest. Say talent walks towards camera and stops - you setup your unit so it will only focus in that range of distance, and you rehearse a few times.

Using any sort of "standard" ff design (marking wheel and a metal pointer), you can clip those spring-steel paper clips to the marking disc, and the disc will stop when the clips hit the pointer. This is a remarkably useful setup if you don't have someone pulling focus, and it's very easy to setup and fine tune.
 
" you can clip those spring-steel paper clips to the marking disc, and the disc will stop when the clips hit the pointer"

Good one, never seen that done (or thought of it). I'll try that one out.
 
Quick DIY "follow focus" tool for manual focusing, go to the grocery store or walmart or whatever and pick up one of those rubber jar openers.

One of these, it will make focusing much much easier. If you don't like it, no biggie, they are only like $2.

jaropener.jpg
 
gonzo_entertainment said:
" you can clip those spring-steel paper clips to the marking disc, and the disc will stop when the clips hit the pointer"

Good one, never seen that done (or thought of it). I'll try that one out.
Click to expand...

I have those things stuffed all over my DSLR bag. Works great. And... when you're dialing in your focus point, you hold the clip open (ready to clamp down on the disk) and sort of press it against the marker rod. When your focus is best, release the clip. Hard to describe in words, but you can very quickly tweak the focus points that way. And a box of those things is like 99 cents.
 
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