i see .....tell me whats wrong

I had a bit of the same problem with the dvx/SGpro combo due to the fact that the dvx produces a soft image to begin with.

Make sure the focus is set correctly (i.e. ground glass and lens).

Also, some folks say lower the detail level in camera but it does differ w/each persons individual lens/setup.

I had to increase the detail to +5. Keep in mind that there will be a touch of noise/grain in your footage no matter what (even if shooting film there will be a bit of grain).

Don't get too frustrated though; there are a lot of things you can do in post.
 
i willl try that asap and thanks to everyone ,ibeen going nut the whole daytrying to figure things out im tired , frustrqted , exhausted and where im at its 4,30 am aaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhh i hope when i wake up this is only a nightmare that m having ..... to be continued:cry:
 
I forgot to ask what your camera was. ZIts a pretty important detail to leave out.
If your using a DVX with an M2 it will probably look like mud no matter what you do.
 
heres some more grabs with a diferent lense maybe that was the problem , if you see something wrong in the quality let me know please
 

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Its gotta be the distance of the lens mount to the ground glass in the adapter. I don't know how the M2 works in this regard, but in the brevis I can adjust the distance from the lens to ground glass to get my wides sharp. Some of my lenses are slightly different so when I have it collimated perfectly for my 50/85mm it will leave one of my wides slightly soft.
 
Am I missing something - You haven't told us the camera, your settings, or the new lens, nor what even exactly bothers you - is it noise or softness - yet you are asking for help?
 
i said it before , i cant keep saying it in every page , but its ok if if i have to.... the noise in the pic specially thye first one and i i even said the lens , the scene file............anyway the seting is the stock scene file , , apertue 5.6 .... nikkor nikon 2.8 ,for the first grabs i used a 35 / 70 mm , the second grabs i used 15/35 mm and i put - 5 in ped .....no matter what im looking for if you have any point of view about my footage good or bad , or how to make it better im open for sugestion , i have a music video in a month and im preparing for it ,
thank you for you help
 
Well its hard to detect noise in a still esp a small one. It does seem soft though.
However since you haven't said what the camera is (even whether its SD or HD), expect me to know what the "stock" scene file is, and seem annoyed that I'm even asking, I can't help at all beyond earlier suggestions. Good luck.
 
thanks lenilenapi for your time , if you click on the pics you get the full resoultion 1080/1920 and its hvx i dont know if i said it before , but for some reason i still think this site its for hvx only :)
 
He's right, the image does look a bit soft. Double check your backfocus. Also try and CC the footage.

Hope you don't mind but I took a stab at it:


picture.php
 
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thats what im looking for , anything that you see not good just let me know , and this is raw footage , and for the soft part someone told me that have to put the shutter little higher that would help
thanks for the reply
 
and the most i was woried about is the noise , but as i been told , i cant get rid off all the noise , as i bee told again ,it supose to be there
 
djgvinny said:
i said it before , i cant keep saying it in every page , but its ok if if i have to.... the noise in the pic specially thye first one and i i even said the lens , the scene file............anyway the seting is the stock scene file , , apertue 5.6 .... nikkor nikon 2.8 ,for the first grabs i used a 35 / 70 mm , the second grabs i used 15/35 mm and i put - 5 in ped .....no matter what im looking for if you have any point of view about my footage good or bad , or how to make it better im open for sugestion , i have a music video in a month and im preparing for it ,
thank you for you help
Click to expand...

So your are using Zoom lenses? Zoom lenses tend to have lower optics in comparison with prime lenses. I am not sure of the aperture limits of the M2, but if their is F4, then and you are shooting at 5.6, you will see grain. You need more light. Try shooting with a faster lens. If the M2 loses one stop of light, that 5.6 becomes a 6.6. (Correct me if I am wrong.)
 
My best advice on adapters:

1. Never trust your backfocus....don't tape it and expect it to stay put.
2. Only use Primes when possible...no zoom lenses if possible.
3. Never trust your back focus...don't tape it and expect it to stay put.
4. The backfocus should be set while the cameras iris is at it's most open, and then closed down a bit.
5. Never trust your back focus...don't tape it and expect it to stay put.
6. If Zooms are used don't use them at there widest or longest, or at their most open or closed...
7. Only use Primes when possible...no zoom lenses if possible.


Now some other notes.....select your lenses carefully. You should be doing some research into each lens, reading tech specs, looking at example pics, reading reviews, etc.

I only have one lens that I got on an impulse buy, and that's cause it was from a local shop for just $20usd....otherwise I only have one other lens that I heavily researched, and my next lens will be the same....don't just buy because something seems "all purpose" or "cheap" or "a good bang for the buck"...buy high quality, and if it costs a bit, then learn to move the camera away or towards your subject until you can afford another lens.
 
Heezzi said:
So your are using Zoom lenses? Zoom lenses tend to have lower optics in comparison with prime lenses. I am not sure of the aperture limits of the M2, but if their is F4, then and you are shooting at 5.6, you will see grain. You need more light. Try shooting with a faster lens. If the M2 loses one stop of light, that 5.6 becomes a 6.6. (Correct me if I am wrong.)
Click to expand...

I believe you're thinking of shutter speed affecting the ability to see the grain in the ground glass....I wouldn't worry at all about seeing a grain pattern at darker settings(iris wise), except for the video grain created by low light....which can be removed with Neat Video.
 
i got this part for sure
Never trust your backfocus....don't tape it and expect it to stay put. lol
thank you ALL
 
I've met alot of people that expect it to stay put, and I've watched as their footage slowly degrades.....it's just a natural consequence of handling the camera.

In fact I was on a project where the director got annoyed at me removing the lens, turning off the adapter and setting the back focus...but let me tell you : 3 out of every 10 times I re-did it, it NEEDED it. This process is something you get better at after time to.

It only takes me about 20 seconds to check my back focus, and 90% of the time it's something I'm doing while waiting on something else anyway.

Accurate focus in general is important as well...I had a project where a director insisted that his Standard Definition monitor was high enough quality to use for focusing on a project where we were filming at 1080...I will say it was a good monitor, but it was a really good monitor for Color Correcting, and it was SD...I argued, and lost for about two days of filming, and finally won out, and we ended up using a generic HD Best Buy monitor of some sort, and you know what? You can watch the project and easily spot the shots from the two days of SD monitor focusing....so be sure to have an HD monitor if you are filming HD....of course with a camera like the HVX you can hit focus assist and get a 1:1 and set focus pretty well.....
 
djgvinny said:
hey nick , any generic hd monitor would be good for focusing ?
Click to expand...

Well, within a couple of limits, yes.

The biggest problem is TV's which accept HD signals, but don't have actual HD resolution. This can be a little confusing, but when selecting a monitor for focusing check the specs for a "Native Resolution", and this should be close, or higher then the format at which you're trying to focus....In other words if you are shooting 720 material the monitors native resolution should be close to or higher then 1280x720...for 1080 it should be close to or higher then 1920x1080.

Of course most of this info is for when buying cheap monitors at the big box store.

One last note on using a cheap monitor : Don't pay ANY attention to this monitor when it comes to colors in your scene. Pay attention to your on board LCD to check colors and such....only use cheap monitors for focus.

Ok...this is really the last note, lol : Make sure whatever monitor you have has the inputs you need....this might sound silly, but the moment you unbox a monitor and can't hook it into your camera I'm sure you won't be laughing(probably).
 
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