I hate my Glidecam

MatthewC said:
I'm getting extremely frustrated. My Glidecam 4000 is pissing me off.

I can never get it right. It seems it always drifts forward, or backwards just a little. The slightest touch, less than a millimeter, and it either goes forward, or backwards.
Is it so sensitive because it's a little too top heavy? Not when I test it. It takes around 2.6 seconds for the drop test to go.

Okay, I extend my pole. Cool, now it's down to around 1.5 seconds for the drop test.
Except now when I move it really fast, the bottom lags behind. Let's shorten the pole a little. Oops, the bottom doesn't lag behind but now it wants to slowly drift, and refuses to sit perfectly still. Now the slight touch again shifts it out of balance, even tightening the screws.

I'm just about to go insane here. I've got 4 weights on it. Should I try less and lengthen the pole? I'm about to throw this thing out the window.


Anyone used the DVX with the GC 4000? How many weights do you use?
Click to expand...

Yeah i have one too, and it is extremely frustrating, i am going to sell mine any buyers.
 
As for the Glidecam not needing a vest with a DVX or HVX, don't be too sure.
I spent a couple of days, probably 4 hours h shooting time, trying out mine (actually a Flycam knockoff) and had no back or arm pain. All seemed fine. Then a week later my shoulder starts hurting. A month later, I still can't move my arm to certain positions without pain. I'm not about to use the thing again without a vest for any length of time. Got a smooth shooter knockoff vest from Ebay ($430) in todays mail and am going to give it a try.
 
I had the Glidecam 2000 and loved it with my DVX100b by itself... I now have the Redrock M2 and needed more out of a stablizer... So I picked up the discontinued Glidecam V-8... Let me tell you, its going to take allot of practice and working out with this thing... I can see why camera operators like to coin themselves Steadicam Camera Operator. It takes allot of skill and strength to use one.
 
craigbowman said:
GC4000_001.jpg


GC4000_002.jpg


Notice 3 weights on each side on bottom. This is totally stripped down camera. Still works fine.
Click to expand...

Awesome. Thanks Craig, this is exactly what I needed. I'll give that a shot tomorrow and see how it works. Short stock, six weights. Do you find it extremely picky balancing it right due to having a shorter stock?
 
i dunno guys i have a V-16 and its the finest thing ive ever used...... i LOVE IT.

the trick is to make it slightly bottom heavy. the 90 degree swing/drop test says the balance should be where it takes 2 seconds for the sled to reach vertical. i have mine setup to take 1.5 seconds. its much easier to controll.
 
MatthewC said:
I'm getting extremely frustrated. My Glidecam 4000 is pissing me off.

I can never get it right. It seems it always drifts forward, or backwards just a little. The slightest touch, less than a millimeter, and it either goes forward, or backwards.
Is it so sensitive because it's a little too top heavy? Not when I test it. It takes around 2.6 seconds for the drop test to go.

Okay, I extend my pole. Cool, now it's down to around 1.5 seconds for the drop test.
Except now when I move it really fast, the bottom lags behind. Let's shorten the pole a little. Oops, the bottom doesn't lag behind but now it wants to slowly drift, and refuses to sit perfectly still. Now the slight touch again shifts it out of balance, even tightening the screws.

I'm just about to go insane here. I've got 4 weights on it. Should I try less and lengthen the pole? I'm about to throw this thing out the window.


Anyone used the DVX with the GC 4000? How many weights do you use?
Click to expand...

The learning curve is high BUT BUT BUT - DO NOT HATE IT - it works FINE

The drop test should be closer to 3 seconds without going over. I assume you have the sled balanced right?

This is probably what is going on

1. Bottom weights, while of correct weight, are not aligned. The farther IN they are, the more your glidecam will spin out of control - move them out more.

2. Pole - keep it short as possible IMO - it should only be extended when you are working with a VERY HEAVY camera pusing the GC limits and for minute adjustments where an extra weight taken/added would be too much. Also 1.5 seconds is a horrid drop time - no way that would work.


PM me if you need help, but for now,


1. put the pole back where it was for 2.6 seconds - then extend it by no more than a centimeter and see if you can get the drop time a TINY BIT LONGER.

2. MOVE THE WEIGHTS EQUIDISTANT from one another, closer to the edges - IMO - there should NOT BE MORE THAN AN INCH difference from the edge of the bottom weights to the edge of the baseplate.

3. Rebalance the sled for the new adjustments. Moving the weights out IS A MAJOR thing.

4. Keep in mind - your wrist/forearm should be kept PERPENDICULAR AT ALL TIMES to the shaft. If you bend your wrist up or down - you will get bad footage.
 
Psynema said:
The learning curve is high BUT BUT BUT - DO NOT HATE IT - it works FINE

The drop test should be closer to 3 seconds without going over. I assume you have the sled balanced right?

This is probably what is going on

1. Bottom weights, while of correct weight, are not aligned. The farther IN they are, the more your glidecam will spin out of control - move them out more.

2. Pole - keep it short as possible IMO - it should only be extended when you are working with a VERY HEAVY camera pusing the GC limits and for minute adjustments where an extra weight taken/added would be too much. Also 1.5 seconds is a horrid drop time - no way that would work.

PM me if you need help, but for now,


1. put the pole back where it was for 2.6 seconds - then extend it by no more than a centimeter and see if you can get the drop time a TINY BIT LONGER.

2. MOVE THE WEIGHTS EQUIDISTANT from one another, closer to the edges - IMO - there should NOT BE MORE THAN AN INCH difference from the edge of the bottom weights to the edge of the baseplate.

3. Rebalance the sled for the new adjustments. Moving the weights out IS A MAJOR thing.

4. Keep in mind - your wrist/forearm should be kept PERPENDICULAR AT ALL TIMES to the shaft. If you bend your wrist up or down - you will get bad footage.
Click to expand...

First off, I tried craigs weight setting. It's extremely bottom heavy now. Flinging it around causes the bottom to move like a whale. It's controllable, possibly more so than my previous efforts thanks to the weight, but I want this thing to be perfect.

Doing some reading a lot of people tend to overweigh it, but have it balanced right. So if they decided to fling it around the bottom is going to lag behind, but for walking around, etc. if you can control it, it seems to get nicer shots.

This is what I'm doing right now:
1) Bottom weights are touching the outside edges. I've got 2 on each end. This was my previous setup.

What exactly is the proper drop time?


Thanks for all the help so far. I'm going to fiddle with 4 weights again today and see if I can find that #!%*^@& sweet spot.
 
MatthewC said:
First off, I tried craigs weight setting. It's extremely bottom heavy now. Flinging it around causes the bottom to move like a whale. It's controllable, possibly more so than my previous efforts thanks to the weight, but I want this thing to be perfect.

Doing some reading a lot of people tend to overweigh it, but have it balanced right. So if they decided to fling it around the bottom is going to lag behind, but for walking around, etc. if you can control it, it seems to get nicer shots.

This is what I'm doing right now:
1) Bottom weights are touching the outside edges. I've got 2 on each end. This was my previous setup.

What exactly is the proper drop time?


Thanks for all the help so far. I'm going to fiddle with 4 weights again today and see if I can find that #!%*^@& sweet spot.
Click to expand...

Touching the outside edges IMO is a bit too far for a DVX, move them in about an inch - drop time should be slightly under 3 seconds -

You have the tape in the camera and LCD flipped out while balancing right?
 
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