HVX 200 vs. Panasonic HDC TM700 ND filter like response

MVEE

New member
I own both cameras. What can I do / How to do it: My HDC TM 700 doesn't have manual ND Filters like the HVX. Can I add filters in gradients to duplicate ND filter like response. If filters can replicate, then which ones should I get? The HDC TM 700 has full manual control (focus, white balance, Iris (Gain is added in after Iris can't be opened anymore with Iris control), Shutter. I want to keep the Iris in the sweet spot for Clear HD (f1.2 - f5.6)
 
Yes, get an ND8, 43mm. your 700 has a built-in automatic ND filter that you have no control over. as you are learning, it creates beautiful green skies(called bondi blue). by placing an ND 8 filter(3-stops), and controlling things manually, you can prevent that filter from popping into place. The f stop on the 700 starts at F/1.5. to shoot at that, you will need an ND4+ND8, or maybe even an ND400.
But, if you're trying to achieve shallow depth of field.....it can be done, but there's a technique. you'll need to experiment to figure that out.
I own/use Hoya ND4, 8, and 400-not all at once. I have a 43mm to 52mm step-up ring....and, I sold my 700 and bought the SD800, which doesn't have the bondi blue issue as bad as the 700. I still have to manually correct white balance in post, but that's easier than messing with it in the field.
 
The filter size for TM700 is 46mm, not 43mm. With an adapter, it can accept larger filters (preferred) as big as 58mm, 77mm, 82mm or whichever ones you have. Sharing filters can save you money and bag space/weight. This makes it possible to buy a Vari/Fade ND filter and make your life easier. it may cost a lot to get a quality one though.

Also, TM700's lens starts with f1.5, not f1.2. But it can open so wide only at its widest angle. So except at its shortest focal length, the lens is more like a f1.8 one.

Also, I have no idea about it having a built-in ND filter that makes skies look greenish (beautiful or not i care less than wrong/weird colors). That might be because I shoot manual mode almost exclusively, except on the occasions when I can't control it for whatever reasons. Even if it does exist, I don't think it does much except for making the otherwise overexposed shots (beyond optical shutter/Iris limit) not overexposed. After i have shot over 4000 1080p60p clips on it since last year, I have never seen green tint in my bright daylight footage (the blue sky always looks blue).
 
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