HPX500 screws for base plate

I used the right sized screwdriver, pushed it firmly into the screws, and removed all four of them without having to do anything else. The blue locktite will simply crack free with the right amount of pressure. I used the same screws again to attach the chrosziel plate and have had no problems. There is no shearing force unless the screws are loose and the plate can wiggle around. It's the pressure of the chrosziel plate being pressed to the the camera that makes it a solid installation. If the heads are are even slightly stripped, you won't be able to tighten them adequately.
 
I will have to say that Panasonic used cheap screws and they are too small for that big of a camera. Lots of weight rest on those four tiny screws. I like the camera a lot though.

Anyways, I took my camera down to Cinequipt here in Minneapolis and here's how they get it out without stripping them. I rent equipments often from them so they helped me for free.

1. Make sure your camera is hold upside down firmly
2. Use right size screw (doesn't have to be a phillips)
3. Fit the screw driver firmly into the screw
3. Use a small rubber hammer to tap the screw gently a few times.
4. Now apply good pressure downward and twist slightly back and forth a few times.
5. Now press down hard and firm and unscrew it.

Those small and soft screws are screwed in there very tight but this is how they got it out. I'm pretty sure if you guys use a little patience and follow the above steps you can get them out yourself with any right size screw.

They replaced those cheap screws with better ones.
 
I'm going to have to agree with Jan here - they are not "cheap" screws.. there would be no logical reason to save a penny on screws.. and they are black anodized, which costs more than manufacturing the screws themselves...

Manufacturers often chose soft screws because if a screw does break, it will have to be drilled out, and it is easier to do that if the metal around the hole is harder than the screw shaft... Also, soft screws are preferred by people who believe that hard screws can be brittle and crack on impact, whereas a soft screw will give and not break (you know, like the proverbial willow vs oak tree saga).

In this case however, where there is no other structural support, I would replace them with stainless or grade 8 screws that are longer to be sure that the entire threaded area in the camera is being used. Just hope they never break.
 
Jan,

I love this camera and am happy with it for what I paid. But I think it's clear that there are a LARGE number of people having the same problem with these screws.

As such, I think it would behoove Panasonic to include a warning sticker on the plates for those owners that intend to remove said plate. It might prevent posts like these in blogs that might be less than flattering for Panasonic.

fortunately I got mine off, but if had been on set trying to do this at the last minute and wasn't able to use follow focus or matte box because of it, it might have really ruined my day, and surely you can see how the potential is there for it to ruin some cinematographers day or reputation should such an event occur.

just my 2 cents
 
Hi,

These same screws are the same screws that we have put on every camera that we have manufactured since 1996, at least. They will not likely change. When removing them take the proper process and they will come out. Not, and you will strip them.

If unclear on what to do call the service center.

Thanks,

Jan
 
Jan, just my humble opinion but I think these screws do have it's problems. One shouldn't even have to call a service center or take it to a local pro camera shop to get it off after spending 15 grand on it. I've used Sony pro cameras and I know the difference between a good screw and a not so good screw. Sony is the winner when it comes to having good screws and getting them off easily with any right size screw driver.

I think it wouldn't hurt to mention this problem to Panasonic. If Panasonic intends to market this camera to the digital cinematographers who will most likely put on a rod system plate, Panasonic should seriously think about those screws. They are small and short too.

Don't get me wrong though, I like the camera alot...for it's price and what it can do.

Samuel M. Lee
 
For all it is worth, while SS fasteners have a reputation as being better, that is not always the case. They do offer improved resistance to corrosion, but only average sterength, depending on grade. The standard SS fastener material is type 304 which is roughly the same tensile strength to a common grade 5 steel fastener. Type 316 alloy is somewhat superior and in most cases will be a special order from supply companies. In addition, all stainless has an increased tendency to thread gall, which would simply ruin your day, and your threads. If using SS, check the fit of each fastener for fit and smoothness in the threaded hole, If it is rough in any way, throw it away and try another. It is surprising how much fasteners will vary.

Grade 5 steel is a typical grade found in many applications unless the manufacturer really cheaped out. These may be plated (cadmium), or not, and it will make zero difference in strength. Grade 8 is the way to go for strength, and will greatly improve the ability of the fasteners ability to not strip under the pressure of tools for removal. Thread cutting on grade 8 is superior also. If broken, as one lister pointed out, there is hell to pay since they will be very difficult to drill out.

I haven't seen the specific application on the camera, but if the fasteners are embeded in aluminum or plastic, large improevments in fastening strength can be made by using helicoils to hold the fasteners in the body, and may allow you to upsize the fastening system also. There needs to be enough meat around the existing tapped holes for this to happen due to the larger diamter of the hole receiving the helicoil.

And, a word about locktite. If you choose to apply new locktite, make sure to remove the old stuff from the threads, and there are specific cleaners made by locktite for this. These cleaners, and acetone, should be carefully checked for compatability with any plastic nearby, which can cause severe damage. And one last thing, some thread sealers are NOT campatable with plated fasteners and will corrode-degrade the plating. Check the fine print on the locktite product you choose.

I hope this clears up some of the confusion

Best Regards
 
ggrantly: exactly right, grade 8 is the way to go and avoid LockTite unless you know what you are doing.. I suggested SS mainly because grade 8 M3s aren't readily available, at least where I am, and the heads are harder (and not phillips), making a secure installation and removal easier.
 
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