How to do a quick setup

J

JoeyW

New member
I am a camera newbie and just bought the 150 from a friend who shipped it to me about a month ago. He set it up for low light conditions indoors and it has worked quite well so far. I have an upcoming video to shoot outdoors and would like some help in setting it up. I am a fast learner so would just like a quick outline of what settings, and in what order, you adjust when at a new site.

Edit:
I know it does not apply to my question, but just thought I would show my current settings:

custom scene file2

Detail level = +1
V Detail level = +2
Detail Coring = +2
Chroma level = +2
Master Ped = -8
Gama = cine-like D
Matrix = Cine-like

Other settings:
HA 1080/60i
Gain = 6dB
Iris = between OPEN and 2.8
Speed = 1/60.0
ND Filter = Off

As I said, the settings listed above are for low light indoors and I am looking for a check list of settings used for outdoor conditions (or really any new conditions).
 
Last edited:
I've been on this forum for over two years -- and I think, think, these are the worst looking settings I've ever seen.

First, you need to learn the difference between interlaced and progressive. Google this or search this forum -- because I'd need to write an essay. This is important, and it boils down to meaning you always want to shoot progressive, not interlaced (your settings are interlaced). Either 720/60p or 1080/24p are the two winners on the HMC150.

Next, always shoot in PH mode. Always. (your settings are in "HA") At 24Mbps you're not paying dearly for the camera's highest bitrate, and there's really no justification to shoot lower -- the only possible exception being legal depositions.

Next, whatever your friend told you about how he set up the camera -- well -- ignore it. Get your manual, download the "Scene File Handbook" (there are links somewhere in this forum), and read them. Believe me, after you learn what you're doing -- you'll be shaking your head wondering what the heck was going through your friend's head.

To start off with something general that does the "mojo" that made the HVX200 a legend, turn the scene file dial on your camera to F5. Then go to the scene file menu and select "INIT." This will give you the default Cine-V, and that's a good starting place. Combine that with 1080/24p or 720/60p PH Mode, and you should be in business.

Beyond that is much, much learning. The HMC150 is a pro camera that is not forgiving to hobbyists. One starting place is Barry Green's book (you can find it somewhere in this forum or, I think, on Amazon) -- "The HMC150 Book," and I think there's also a more general "HMC Book." If you prefer video training -- get your hands on Barry Green's "HVX Bootcamp," and if you ignore all the P2 stuff -- 94% of everything else directly applies to the HMC150.

I'm sorry I don't have some easy answer for you -- but the settings you posted are so ugly I was forced to respond. The good news -- and it is good news -- is that when you learn what you're doing with the 150 you'll discover a camera that is a thousand times better than what you've got now.
 
OK. Thanks for being honest. I never claimed to know anything about this camera. I tried the 1080/24p and it looked jerky almost like watching an old Laurel & Hardy movie, so I went back to the 1080/60i. Sounds like I will try 720/60p in PH mode. The other thing I think you were saying was to try the default scene file f5. I will try that, but are you also saying that the custom scene file 2 is not set up correctly?
I have checked into the HMC book and will be ordering that shortly.
 
I hope to be encouraging in the sense of saying -- your camera gets a whole lot better than what you've been using.

That's a custom scene file that's an uneducated variation of F6 Cine-D, the default scene file 2 is totally different.

Any of the default scene files combined with PH mode should do better than what you listed. Go to the scene file menu, select "LOAD/SAVE/INIT", and then select "INITIALIZE." This will reset the scene file to default -- but only does so for the number you've selected on the dial. So, if you want to reset them all, you'd turn the dial to F1, initialize, then turn to F2, initialize, then turn to F3, etc. through to F6.

Search this forum for the "SCENE FILE HANDBOOK," and that will explain much.

Again, I highly recommend the Barry Green book. There's a genuine learning curve to the 150 -- it's almost exactly an HVX200A, except it writes AVCHD. The HVX200A is a camera used by television stations and networks -- it's a pro device and not designed to be easy for consumers.

Yes, 720/60p is ideal for fast pans and motion. If 24p looked like "Laurel & Hardy," either your computer isn't so hot or you're doing something wrong. Make sure you turn the shutter off.

So, the good news is that you can go far with your camera. The bad news is that there's a learning curve that may be rough.
 
"Laurel & Hardy," probably means your shutter was set to 1/24th. If you turn it off it goes to the default pseudo-cinema 1/48th.
 
On a "large" monitor (55") I really feel 1080/60i looks noticably better than 1080/24p, 720/60p or anything else, especially in the shadow detail.

Tom
 
24P and even 30P will be jerky if you pan, tilt or zoom to fast. This is indicative the the frame rate and not the cameras.

I use 24p when I need a film look, 30p for general TV recording, and 720 60P for sports (often with a 180-240 shutter). 72060P with a normal shutter can also give you a more "real" or "video" look.

Lower framerate/shutter will also increase low light. Lowering the shutter to much can cause motion blur.

Hmm... well, lets just say those are some very basic basics and with time you will understand this video stuff more. :)
 
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