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HMC80 Footage VERY washed out
- Thread starter cuspclub
- Start date
Greg Smith
Veteran
My first impression is that the iris/ND assembly has become stuck fully open, certainly a hardware problem that needs service. Do you still get this effect when shooting under low light levels indoors? Were the sample images shot in full auto mode?
- Greg
- Greg
When shooting indoors, the camera seems really sensitive to light as well. We have a Canon XH-A1 and a Sony NX5U and they don't have any problems at all in similar shooting situations. The sample images above were shot in full auto. It really does seem like the auto-ND filter isn't working.
ChrisHarding
Well-known member
Switch the 80 into manual mode and see what the LCD shows the shutter speed as ..That might have changed but should default to 1/50 or 1/60 if you were in full auto... If the shutter is all OK then press in the iris wheel to go to manual iris and see what the display shows you...if that looks normal then I would also say the ND filters have jammed in the out position or have broken off. I'm on my 3rd pair of HMC80's and never had a problem ... it's easy to see if the ND's are actually working by pointing the camera indoors in full auto and then swing it across to some bright light in the open door or window ...the LCD will initially overexpose for a second and your screen will be full of zebras then it will expose correctly as the ND filter kicks in. It could also be a very low shutter has locked in but could also be a very simple solution if you are in manual!! Outdoors, the shutter will stay at 1/50 or 1/60 default and even though autoiris is running (with the ND's) the camera will lock the shutter at default and when it runs out of iris it will simply overexpose in bright light..the shutter only changes if you are in full auto !! I did this at a wedding and despite being in autoiris I couldn't figure why the image was washed out until I realised I needed to do a auto/manual/auto with the switch to get everything into full auto again.
Chris
Chris
Denniscasey
Well-known member
I don't mean to impinge on this thread but am curious about the auto/manual/auto switch action Chris mentions. Chris, in your thread you said "....I realised I needed to do a auto/manual/auto with the switch to get everything into full auto again." I am assuming you were in manual mode when you saw overexposure and then did the auto/manual/auto switch moves to get back to full auto?
I am still learning things about my HMC40 and thought I only needed to slide switch from manual to auto to get camera back to full auto--and here I am also assuming HMC80 and HMC40 are very similar in operation. Regards, Dennis
I am still learning things about my HMC40 and thought I only needed to slide switch from manual to auto to get camera back to full auto--and here I am also assuming HMC80 and HMC40 are very similar in operation. Regards, Dennis
ChrisHarding
Well-known member
Hi Dennis
If you are in auto for example and apply some iris tweaking using the wheel, that setting stays on the camera until you flip the switch to manual and then back to auto to reset it...If I have some backlighting and I'm in full auto mode and get the iris to over-expose the brighter light behind so the skin tones are correct then the camera will hold that setting until you actually turn it off or change the mode from auto to manual and back again. Just bear in mind that in manual, if you switch the iris or not, the shutter speed remains locked at default so in bright sunlight the iris/ND may not cope at 1/50 or 1/60 and you will see zebras so you then need to do a manual shutter change...as an example I was at a wedding on Wednesday and the main cam was in manual and over-exposing just a tad as the iris was heading to F10.5...in full auto the camera upped the shutter and the autoiris shifted to a more respectable F6.8 ....I keep zebras on all the time ...they are a great way to see if something is wrong!!!
Apart from XLR audio, the 40 and 80 have identical controls as far as I know ..I'm sure Barry can confirm that!!
Chris
If you are in auto for example and apply some iris tweaking using the wheel, that setting stays on the camera until you flip the switch to manual and then back to auto to reset it...If I have some backlighting and I'm in full auto mode and get the iris to over-expose the brighter light behind so the skin tones are correct then the camera will hold that setting until you actually turn it off or change the mode from auto to manual and back again. Just bear in mind that in manual, if you switch the iris or not, the shutter speed remains locked at default so in bright sunlight the iris/ND may not cope at 1/50 or 1/60 and you will see zebras so you then need to do a manual shutter change...as an example I was at a wedding on Wednesday and the main cam was in manual and over-exposing just a tad as the iris was heading to F10.5...in full auto the camera upped the shutter and the autoiris shifted to a more respectable F6.8 ....I keep zebras on all the time ...they are a great way to see if something is wrong!!!
Apart from XLR audio, the 40 and 80 have identical controls as far as I know ..I'm sure Barry can confirm that!!
Chris
Denniscasey
Well-known member
Hi Chris, Thank you yet again for good information. Dennis