High output LED lights (ALZO 3000, etc) battery solutions

I've been thinking along those lines as well. What would be best is if it could be wired to take the battery input directly. So you would have to open it up and poke around on the power supply to see if there happens to be a point where the power is converted to 12-14volts. Then it would be a simple matter of putting a connector on the unit and adapt it to a battery.

It could be expensive. A big v-mount battery can hold about 150 watt-hour of power. That means you can get about 60-90 minutes per battery @ $180-$200/battery.

I don't have the need at the moment, so I'm not taking mine apart to poke around.

The simpler way to go would be to get a harbor freight inverter and connect that to a battery. But that is a waste of power with the double conversion from battery to AC back to DC.

http://www.harborfreight.com/200-watt-continuous-power-inverter-66967.html
 
I dont know the lights but would comment thus.

The W/hr of Vlocks is not the only consideration but the current draw too.

Ive just got a Dled4.1 which I think is 45W draw which I think is considered to be the max from a single Vlock.

S
 
You're probably much better off to get lights made for battery use... or spend your $$ and mental frustration limits on a generator...
 
You can power a 400w joker off of 2 battery belts and an inverter. I imagine a 150w light would be no problem. I wish I knew the brand of any of those though....I'll see if I can find out.
 
Paul F said:
The simpler way to go would be to get a harbor freight inverter and connect that to a battery. But that is a waste of power with the double conversion from battery to AC back to DC.
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I've often wondered if that would work well . Certainly have run lights off a car that way. Are you sure power is lost on the conversion - how much? I guess I could test this myself . I'll let you know if I get around to it.
 
Power is always lost on conversion. These days, a good switcher can get well over 90% efficiency, so it isn't terrible. If two conversions lose 7% each, you can rate your battery capacity to be 86% of rated capacity.
 
V-Lock batteries depending on the brand are usually 18V DC when fully charged and go down to 13 V DC at their discharged lower limit. I have used the 140 watt/hour V Locks powering my home brew 750W leds without any issues. The amp meter indicates 8 amp draw at the battery end making it a power draw of well over 100 watts from the battery. I would not stretch that watt draw to more than that as over discharging limit may be reached and the circuit may trip ( if equipped). Two batteries in parallel will be welcome as the current is halved from each batt and so is the power draw giving twice the run time. There are cradles made to put 2 v mounts together for just that purpose and to "hot swap" ability. I try reducing the light level by 15-20% to get the watt draw below 100 watts via dimmer. My v lock is connected directly to the led unit's DC-DC driver WITHOUT any DC-AC inverter going on. They should have had a DC in socket in that light just for battery operation bypassing the AC-DC on board conversion in it. As a note: I have in the past used many v locks powering a 75w filament on-camera light without any issues.
 
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