HDSLR footage for cinema projection...

L

leeburnett

Active member
Hello,

I've just started planning and researching my first documentary (about homelessness in Cornwall). I've been in discussion with a few different people who have fingers in many pies, and it's now going to be screened in 2 different cinema theatres in Cornwall when it is released... very exciting, and very scary.

I wanted to know if there's any difference in how I should approach the filming of this. I have a 550d (t2i), and will be editing in FCPx. Obviously there's issues with moire and aliasing, which I have learnt how to avoid... I'm sure these issues will be much greater when projecting in a cinema theatre. But what else is there I should be paying attention to?

Thanks for any advice,
Lee
 
Hello Lee, best of luck to you on your project.

Here is what I would suggest. First, practice with the lens you are using. Know which direction to turn the focus ring in order to focus in towards a subject close to you, and away for a subject moving away from you. Make this second nature so that when unexpected movement happens, you're not "focus hunting" and accidentally turning the focus ring in the wrong direction. Practice until it's second nature.

Second, watch your exposure. Will you be using Magic Lantern? If you are comfortable with that, it will help tremendously in giving you the tools you need both for focus and exposure. If not, perhaps an external monitor such as a SmallHD DP4 or DP6 or the Zacuto EVF (without the EVF part) that will give you zebras and peaking in a small package that can mount comfortably atop of your 550D. Very handy. As far as exposure goes, never let anything on a subject blow out, even if a bright white shirt on a sunny day. Keep everything on the person in question properly exposed, and then you can start letting things blow out elsewhere. An external monitor will also be handy if you plan for any shots where you'd have to be laying on the ground in order to use the screen.

Third, invest in at least a decent monopod. I don't know if you're planning to hand hold the camera, but if so, then stick to around a 30mm focal length and use a tripod/monopod when at all possible. A steady image is a good image.

Fourth, try to nail the look you want in camera. Use picture styles to this end (play with different ones and find one you like. there's a virtual smorgasbord out there) and white balance your camera. The presets tend to skew skin tones with yellow/orange, and manual white balancing can help with that (much easier to do with Magic Lantern than with how the camera natively accomplishes it). You can just use a sheet of paper to do so, or invest in a gray card which will also help you with proper exposure.

Fifth, invest in some ND filters, either Tiffen ColorCore (cheap) or Tiffen White Water (expensive, but good). I watched a documentary on a big screen that was predominantely filmed outdoors without NDs and the high shutter speed gave me a splitting headache (there was a lot of movement going on).

Hope this helps!
 
Hi Gary,
Thanks for the response. I have actually recently invested in most of the kit you've mentioned - a zacuto z-finder, sachtler ace tripod, gini shoulder rig, tiffen variable nd filter etc etc. I don't think I will be getting an external monitor as of yet... at least until I experience any issues with the z-finder. I love having a slightly smaller rig, and given the subject matter I think it's better to have the least obtrusive rig I can...

With regards to the ND filter, I chose the variable tiffen because it seemed the best quality I could afford, and I liked the ability to turn up or down without hard-stops, meaning I could alter exposure when moving between light and dark areas without being too noticeable. I understand there's slight issues with colour caste and the x-shadow type thing... both of which I haven't experienced until I push the ND all the way up, which I will avoid. But are these issues heightened when being projected? It will be digital projected, and I know that one of the screens is relatively small, not sure about the other...

As for Magic Lantern, I have used it previously... it's brilliant for Zebras and on-screen zooming etc, but I found that it regularly caused the camera to stop filming. It just stated that "The camera has stopped filming" or something along those lines. I didn't want to risk me missing valuable shots, BUT I loved the options it provided. Any reason why this might be happening? Could it be that I'm using cheaper komputer-bay SD cards or 3rd party batteries?

Is there anything else I'm missing about the differences between watching on a computer screen, and it being projected in a cinema?

Thanks again
 
leeburnett said:
I don't think I will be getting an external monitor as of yet... at least until I experience any issues with the z-finder.
Click to expand...

Yeah, the Zacuto EVF is simply a monitor that you can mount the Z-Finder on to. I liked using it and found the tools very helpful. So if you ever decide to get one, just get the base unit since you already have a Z-Finder. The Z-Finder alone really helps with focusing, and it also helps keep handheld shots steadier given the way you have to hold the camera to place your eye on it.

I understand there's slight issues with colour caste and the x-shadow type thing... both of which I haven't experienced until I push the ND all the way up, which I will avoid.
Click to expand...

Yes, if you don't crank it up high you should be fine, but I would use it to avoid needing to adjust your shutter any higher than 1/50 or 1/60 at maximum. To keep color casts to a minimum, do a manual white balance with the Variable ND on the lens, that will help alleviate some of the issues. Projection won't exacerbate anything because that will be color, it will still look the same. Just make sure you do some color correction if something's not correct instead of just going with it.

Any reason why this might be happening? Could it be that I'm using cheaper komputer-bay SD cards or 3rd party batteries?
Click to expand...

Yes, undoubtedly so. There is absolutely no reason to cheap out on batteries. A 3rd party battery that cuts out on you while filming will be far more of a headache than ML bugs. Same goes for cheap SD cards. Unless you can upgrade to Canon batteries and Sandisk Extreme SD cards, I'd stay away from Magic Lantern. But there's no reason you shouldn't be using both of those. Don't cheap out when it comes to the accessories that make your camera capable of working.
 
Just a little add-on from my own experience. The "movie stop recording" could be what I interpret to be disk fragmentation. Before every shoot I do a low level format of the card and I don't get the problem. If I take pictures or modifying the card on my computer, I'll get the stop recording problem.
 
Great, I've ordered 2 SanDisk extreme 32gb cards, they have 45mb/s. Also got 2 genuine Canon batterys, will order 2 more and get rid of my 3rd party ones.

Do you think that the CBR in magic lantern is worth me using for this project? I've heard mixed reviews about how much benefit it actually provides, but if I can reach CBR 3.0x with the audio turned off, then surely that will provide a much sharper image once it is projected?
 
I've been using Magic lantern for a while now, my suggestion is leave the CBR at default, there is not much improvement with it increased.

If your budget still allows it try to invest in a mosaic filter, its a bit cheaper for the t2i. I have used it on my 5D and I don't have to worry about aliasing and moire.
Its not a must but in documentary run and gun sometimes conditions are not ideal.
I have seen several of my work on big cinema screens and in those projects where i have not used the mosaic, moire and aliasing was a pain.

Like what Gary Huff has said, try to nail your look in camera. I use neutral profile and mostly in difficult lighting conditions I use Cinestyle as it stretches a bit the dynamic range.

Good luck.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top