grabs (before and after)

pfista

pfista

Well-known member
Here's some screen grabs from a short comedy I am currently working on. I would really appreciate it if you could give me some ideas on color correcting or other useful hints to get more of a film look. Right now I don't really know where to go with this so any help / suggestions would be great.

//
clip added
http://www.asdffilms.com/sbi_clip_h.mov


before:
1bgp0.jpg


after:
1avo6.jpg


before:
2bum8.jpg


after:
2agv1.jpg


before:
3bta1.jpg


after:
3anq3.jpg


before:
4byw3.jpg


after:
4aye8.jpg


before:
5bzx0.jpg
 
Last edited:
Hm. Look nice. Not MUCH of a difference on the before and after, but the after seemed to eliminate the yellows. Any video clips we can see?
 
I'm pretty sure I used this:

Detail Lvl: -4
V Detail: -2
Master Ped: -6
Gamma : cine d
matrix: cinelike
v detail freq: thick
everything else is 0

We have one more scene to go, but it stinks because with school / extracurriculars its really hard to get everyone together. And the only time we can film is on saturday. So I'm hoping we get this done by december. It'll be a nice little christmas present.
 
most of your images are over exposed. The only way to fix this is to, next time, bring a bounce board and even the contrast ratio between your actors faces and the blow out sky, right now it screams video.

so what i did is try to bring the whites down, and the over exposed areas a tad more yellow, which gives the impression that it is less blown out and actually retains some sort of color information ( detail ).

Then i just played around with the color some to find something naturalistic yet filmic.

here is whta i came out with

here is your original

4byw3.jpg


and my version

afterjo9.jpg
 
Alright thanks for the help. So a bounce board will be enough to even it out? I've never used one before so I don't really know the difference it would make.
 
Is it supposed to be a documentary type thing? cause if so i'd leave the footage as it was shot, nothing wrong with it. However in the end it's your choice! :o)

Great footage by the way, nice car too!
 
hmm, i would have to disagree. even in documentary, the goal is to have a pleasing image, it is not necessarily an excuse to have bad footage solely because its not a fiction film.

get a bounce board, or a reflector and bounce some light back into your subjects face.

this will, in most cases, give your talents a good stop to two stops of extra light on their face. It will provide soft lighting to get rid of harsh shadows that digital doesn't like due ot the contrast ratio and latitude, and it will also allow some details of the sky to come back into the shot instead of being purely white ( blown out ).

good luck!

remember, this camera is capable of achieving beautiful footage as long as you keep it within its restrictions. DV has about.. what is it, 7 stops of latitude? In film there are things called zones, 1 through 10, each progressive zone is a full stop. You expose for your neutral grey ( zone 5 ) which is very close to Caucasian skin tones and then keep the rest within the limits of DV, therefor you have about 3 stops on either side instead of 5.
 
PaPa said:
hmm, i would have to disagree. even in documentary, the goal is to have a pleasing image, it is not necessarily an excuse to have bad footage solely because its not a fiction film..
Click to expand...

I suppose that's down to personal preference. I tend to only grade my footage when i'm trying to achieve a specific look. And for documentaries the footage i produce is fine without correction, i wouldn't call it bad footage either.
 
PaPa said:
remember, this camera is capable of achieving beautiful footage as long as you keep it within its restrictions. DV has about.. what is it, 7 stops of latitude? In film there are things called zones, 1 through 10, each progressive zone is a full stop. You expose for your neutral grey ( zone 5 ) which is very close to Caucasian skin tones and then keep the rest within the limits of DV, therefor you have about 3 stops on either side instead of 5.
Click to expand...


So when I'm exposing for the skin I would use the zebras at 80% having the forehead and nose have a few zebras, and then goto 100% zebras and check the rest of the shot to see if anything else is overexposed? Or do you actually bring a neutral gray board out there and expose for that?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top