Good steadicam options for af-101

Steve R said:
Maybe something between infinity and trying to pull focus would be sufficient - like a depth of field that safely contains the followed action, but is relatively shallow?? Guess it all depends upon what, exactly, you're following with your steadicam.
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Hperfocal is more limited on these bigger sensor cameras and only somewhat useful. A focus puller is already using the DOF to assist in any case. (1/3rd : 2/3rds rule of focus)

The point of the steadicam is to de-restrict the movement of the camera and its operator. To have to go and design shots around what you can and cannot keep in focus goes against everything the device was designed for. FWIW ..I have shot a few feature films, and TVCs on steadicam ( 16/35 and video) so I do know what is involved in composing and operating these things.

All I am saying here is that the AF100 and the lens one uses...needs to have remote focus control to get anywhere near its reason for being.
 
My choices have narrowed down between the steadicam scout and steadicam flyer le (used)...has anyone had any practical experience with any one of these two steadicams?
 
Steve R said:
Q: Are moderately wide and normal lenses generally used on steadicam shots?
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A lot of times it seems easy to use a wide lens, and it can be.

But on the AF100 a 35 or even a 50 or even longer can be very useful. It is easier to keep the scene tight, you don't have to worry as much about the perfect horizon, it can be more intimate. You definitely need more skill and focus becomes more critical. Not all Stedicam shots are action. I am looking forward to shooting Stedicam with the remote Birger kit. It will be harder but more rewarding.

I have always liked tighter shots with Stedicam. It is harder but very rewarding when you nail it.

If I shoot a ski run down a mountain or similar like a fast move around horses, then I use a wide lens (10-14 on an AF100). But it is not at all a rule.
 
Steve R said:
Maybe something between infinity and trying to pull focus would be sufficient - like a depth of field that safely contains the followed action, but is relatively shallow?? Guess it all depends upon what, exactly, you're following with your steadicam.
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You are going to buzz all of your shots if you just set the focus to infinity. If you don't have a proper follow focus, you would have to measure out your distance from the subject, set your focus accordingly, and maintain that distance (at least within the available DOF) throughout the shot.
 
I use a modified glidecam v16. They can still be found used for cheap and I've even put a RED on mine. I agree about remote follow focus being a must. I'm waiting for an affordable or somewhat affordable unit (maybe redrock....been waiting and waiting and waiting!) I've done shoots with 16mm, 1/3, 2/3, hvx-letus, an I'll say that without being able to pull focus when shooting large sensor cameras it becomes very limiting. I even turned down a recent gig because they wouldnt rent one for me. That might be my new rule too because it's easy for people to blame the soft shot on the operator.
 
j-
Keep in mind that Birger is also working on a remote focus controller. Take a look at the one the Birger rep is using in the thread entitled "Birger mount demo in Boston Wed." I think I'd have a little more faith in Birger's than the one that was due out last summer by RR.
 
jgardner said:
I use a modified glidecam v16. They can still be found used for cheap and I've even put a RED on mine. I agree about remote follow focus being a must. I'm waiting for an affordable or somewhat affordable unit (maybe redrock....been waiting and waiting and waiting!) I've done shoots with 16mm, 1/3, 2/3, hvx-letus, an I'll say that without being able to pull focus when shooting large sensor cameras it becomes very limiting. I even turned down a recent gig because they wouldnt rent one for me. That might be my new rule too because it's easy for people to blame the soft shot on the operator.
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A RED on a V16....?
Don't think so, unless you just put the body on.
You are going to load a V16 long before you have a usable RED setup mounted on top. A V16 just isn't going to take it no matter how you "modify" it.
Overweight, overmatched and (sorry) foolish to even attempt.
 
cckid said:
My choices have narrowed down between the steadicam scout and steadicam flyer le (used)...has anyone had any practical experience with any one of these two steadicams?
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Between those two options, go with the Scout. Better vest (you'll appreciate it), and a better arm.

Try and avoid the Flyer le, you'll be much happier with a Scout.
 
Is this possible with our setup?

Is this possible with our setup?

As you can probably tell, i am a complete newbie at this. We own a AF101 and use an adapter to connect nikon lenses. For simple corporate work and music videos. We have been offered a used x-22 for cheap and are contemplating purchasing that.

the question is would we have any options for controlling the focus/zoom via the gimble? or would this not be possible with our setup...?

Thanks in advance..
 
jgardner said:
I use a modified glidecam v16. They can still be found used for cheap and I've even put a RED on mine. I agree about remote follow focus being a must. I'm waiting for an affordable or somewhat affordable unit (maybe redrock....been waiting and waiting and waiting!) I've done shoots with 16mm, 1/3, 2/3, hvx-letus, an I'll say that without being able to pull focus when shooting large sensor cameras it becomes very limiting. I even turned down a recent gig because they wouldnt rent one for me. That might be my new rule too because it's easy for people to blame the soft shot on the operator.
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What sort of modifications have you made to the V-16?
 
is there a cabled remote for the AF101 that controls focus/zoom? - if there is you can at least mount the remote on the gimbal handle and loosely loop the cable around the post to a fixed point below the camera mount and from there to the camera - and before anyone howls in protest I've done it with a Canon XH-A1 and the ZR-2000 remote - not the most elegant or accurate solution but it worked.
 
Realistically, the only way to pull focus on a Steadicam is with a remote unit and a focus puller. If you were to try flying a Steadicam (with all that entails on it's own) and then add pulling focus yourself at the same time, you'll end up with pretty much nothing useable. The concentration needed to get a good result flying a Steadicam is already high, but to then basically continually have to be checking focus at the same time, keeping everything framed and smooth... I think you get the idea.If you want a quality product using a Steadicam, you can't pull focus at the same time, it just isn't a realistic idea.
 
I agree totally. It would be extremely ambitious to operate and pull focus at the same time. The general wisdom I've heard is to pick up the largest capacity you can in the steadicam and then add weights to bring your camera into that range. I had my AF100 (w/ Zeiss Superspeeds) flown on a Tiffen arm last week and it was a breeze for the operator to add a weighted cheese plate under the camera to get the weight up from 14 to 20 lbs. It seems this extra mass also helped smooth the moves and wind effect too!
 
With a gimbal-mounted focus control it's not about pulling focus during a shot, but quickly re-setting between shots for a desired focal distance. Live TV Steadicam guys do it all the time. Zooming during a shot is pretty common in live TV. Stanton (Jimmy Jib) used to make a gimbal-mounted controller that has been the industry-standard for zoom/focus on broadcast cameras.
 
Pookie said:
Between those two options, go with the Scout. Better vest (you'll appreciate it), and a better arm.

Try and avoid the Flyer le, you'll be much happier with a Scout.
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Hmmm.. well, the Scout arm + vest are exactly the same as the Flyer LE arm + vest. The major difference is the topstage, dropin system and the possibility to add those merlin weights at the bottomstage to get more inertia. The Flyer LE has 12/24V + 12V via both batteries at the same time (for powerhunger Red+Alexa in compact build) and has a bit better SD monitor.
 
JPM Photography said:
What sort of modifications have you made to the V-16?
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I cut apart the bottom of the sled and added some zacuto parts to create a dual vlock bat hanger that slides on 15mm rails for ballast adjustment. Also, above that on the post I added (which I found on ebay) a monitor bracket that slides in and out on rails for additional ballast adjustment.
 
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