Glidecam 4000 Owner Question

Jeremy Ordan

Jeremy Ordan

Major Contributor
One really simple question before I buy this thing today (was going to purchase yesterday, but some things came up and B&H pissed me off and EVS was out of stock).

To people who have owned or used this thing, how hard is this thing to balance?

Thanks for any feedback.

-Jeremy
 
it's not difficult

it's not difficult

I just purchased the Smooth Shooter/ 4000.
Here's the deal. Common sense is all it takes. First, it's important to get the Bogen quick release assembly, otherwise every time you remove your camera from the sled, you'll be back to square one. Second, simply start by mounting the camera in the center of the sled, add ssome weights to the bottom and try to get a front to rear balance. then, adjust the sled to get a left to right balance. Then, add weights to the bottom equally to get the "drop test" close, then fine tune it with the sled extension. It can't possibly take more than 30 minutes.....see my review in the recent threads...
 
I've been using the French "Aigle" (Eagle) stabilizer for quite a while (see here : http://www.laigleparis.fr/) and I made a web page (http://perso.wanadoo.fr/cinedv/steadicam.htm) to give people tips fed to me by the designer that weren't included in the original manual.

I say this because my first experiences with that stabilizer were somewhat frustrating : stabilizers can be difficult to balance (and to use), which is why the Steadicam™ classes are quite successful, from what I hear.

However, if the manual is detailed enough, or if another user gives you some hints, it becomes quite easy, although it always does require care and some patience. On average, I'd say it takes me about 10 minutes to balance my stabilizer on set before being ready to shoot. I've rarely seen any paid professional do it faster... and clean stabilizer shots are immensely enjoyable to watch !

Have fun ! :thumbsup:
 
Well I purchased the quick release plate, so my goal is to get it pretty much set up with the view screen out and the high capacity battery on so I don't need to worry about it after that first balance.

I'm just a bit paranoid about the setting for it, then also running any sort of XLR cable into the camera, that is really scary.
 
AbracadabraFilms said:
I just purchased the Smooth Shooter/ 4000.
Click to expand...

I've had the rig in my shopping cart a couple of times recently... if you're willing, I'd love to check out your setup at some point. I'm in KW as well.
 
Well, needless to say, balance is critical to smooth shots. That said, we used the Glidecam (2000) and got the balance down with the monitor out and the big battery. But we were using a Quickcapture via Firewire and that completely threw the balance off. We decided to use the tape for scenes with the Glidecam. (The XLR cable caused the same problem.)
 
OK, I got it, working on balancing it for a while now. Right now I have mounted the quick release plate and I'm running about 5 weights front and back right now. Does anyone have a picture of their Glidecam set up or any idea of how many weights they have on the base?
 
Have you checked out this page?

http://www.glidecam.com/videos.php

This really helped me understand what correct balance is. I thought I had it balanced pretty well, though, the clips I shot told me I was wrong. After watching the demos on this site, I was able to get everything balanced correctly.

Once again, though, having external cables plugged in defeated me completely.
 
I have watched that about three or four times, but I still cannot balance this piece of ****. I'm getting pissed now.
 
I use 5 or 6 weights, front and back, and my rig. Generally I'm running with LCD out, hood on, occasionally a long shotgun mounted on top, sometimes ALSO with a wireless receiver mounted off the right side.

It takes a little getting used to. The first couple of times I tried to get it balanced, it took me a long time. Now, after a month or two of use, I can do it in about 3 minutes every time.

XLR cables are a real problem, as can be headphone cables. If you must use it, you need a cable wrangler. It also helps to wrap the cable around your neck and down your back opposite the direction of movement (generally this means over your left side). If you're doing a very complex shot, I would HIGHLY recommend bringing in another recording device for audio.
 
Sorry I don't have a photo to show but the balance weights at the bottom seemed to be the easiest part to set up. The problems were mainly getting the camera positioning on the top just right. It seemed like we tweeked it forever (it really wasn't that long but seemed like it) to get it just right. We'd shoot our shot, then back to the tripod. Next Glidecam shot...we'd start over with the balancing. Of course, we tried to group our Glidecam shots as much as possible...but working with people's schedules was a bear.
 
I knew Mikko would get a chuckle out of the balancing problems I'm having with this thing.

I think I have it almost perfect after about four hours of playing with it, but it leans a bit to the left, I adjust it, and then it leans to the right.

This has been a nasty headache so far, but thankfully I bought that quick release plate.
 
Well, not like a noose, Mikko... more like just trail it off over the shoulders! ;)

Anyway, when it comes to making small adjustments, make them to the bottom weights, not the top plate.
 
OK, well I am able to pick it up, only get a little shake when that happens, and I can move it forward and back, but it has a little shake when the movement stops. I can run with it, but it spins if you don't have a second hand on it (I know you're supposed to keep two hands on it).

These little shakes and spins, is that normal? Anyone?
 
What sort of "shakes"?

The general rule with any stabilizer is that it won't move unless you move it!

..I presume you managed to get it in balance?

- Mikko
 
Well I have the weights set so I think it is close to being balanced.

When I pick it up it is level but then seems to lean a bit and then come back into balance. From that point when I move it is does not stay 100% steady and it moves a bit, but it is getting closer.
 
If you mean it leans off-level when you accelerate (or decelerate, which is just negative acceleration) .. that is called "penduluming" and is caused by the sled beeing bottom heavy. - This is normal. :)

This is what "drop time" is all about. - Drop time is how bottom-heavy the sled is; how fast it drops from horizontal to vertical.

If the sled isn't bottom heavy (is neautral) it will hang at any angle...not normally desirable...and won't be affected by de/acceleration.
If the sled is too bottom heavy it will hang straight but pendulum a lot when you move it (as you are too far from the CG).
With an 'ideal' bottom heaviness, the sled will hang vertical, but won't pendulum much when you change speed. - This is an entirly personal preferance and varies between operators and shots.

You will however have to learn to use your gimble hand to prevent this swinging action when you change speed. It's another aspect of operating. The key is to use your fingertips as a "wall" - don't push the gimble as you will end up overcompensating, but rather hold you fingers at the right place for vertical and just don't let the sled push past that point.

Notice that this isn't only speeding up and slowing down, but also when cornering the bottom of the sled will want to swing out just a little, again you will need to use your fingertips as a "wall" to prevent it.

Messing this up and blowing your "horizon" (dutch tilting) or "dipping" slightly (tilting) at the start of end of moves, is a classic sign of a newbie operator. Welcome to the club. :)

If you are getting vibration in the system however, then that is a different problem (something is loose, on/or the sled itself)

- Mikko
 
It's so funny Mikko ! Reading your post was like travelling back through time a few months and seeing myself trying to master the beast... Exact same problems, exact same mistakes... :grin: but eventually, what a joy it is when you learn to "fly" it (almost) properly !
 
I used a glidecam 4000 with my old XL1s and loved it, never really seemed to have any problems balancing. My major complaint about that setup was with a heavy cam like the XL you are sure to destroy your wrist without the optional wrist support. Never used it with the DVX but am planning on purchasing a 2000 when i get my DVX100b in a couple weeks and im gonna wait on the wrist support to see how it handles without it, anyone have any info on wrist fatigue with the DVX and glidecam 2000?
 
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