GH2 GH2 shutter speed question

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DBP

Well-known member
So right now I don't have an ND filter for my GH2. I'm planning on getting a heliopan vari-ND soon, but I just can't afford the $$$ right now, and I really don't want to settle for a cheap-o one.

When shooting outside right now, I'm basically stuck with jacking up the shutter to insane amounts in order to expose properly. Is there any post workflow that can add blur to simulate the look of 1/40-1/50 shutter speed if it was shot with a shutter speed of 1/500 or 1/1000?

Grateful if anyone has any tips.
 
In all honestly I would shoot with a cheap vari ND ANYDAY of the week over trying to add blur / manipulate your footage in post. I realize many people are against using a cheap ND, but any potential pitfalls should be easily overcome with a few seconds of correction in post (which would not be the case if you jacked up your shutter / stopped down, essentially ruining the aesthetic of your footage). If you don't need a filter size of more than 62mm, I recommend getting a neewer vari ND just until you can get what it is you want. Here are my videos, in which I used the cheap neewer Vari ND for every single one. Without it, I'd be lost haha.

https://vimeo.com/39151120
https://vimeo.com/35999739
https://vimeo.com/39086587
https://vimeo.com/36182092
 
Gotcha...I was afraid of that.

I think I might snag the Panasonic 46mm one for now. I only have the 20mm 1.7 lens and the 14-42 kit lens right now, and I won't be getting any more any time soon. It's only 35$ taxes + shipping, so I'll just grab a better one down the road.
 
"I'm basically stuck with jacking up the shutter to insane amounts in order to expose properly."

You should pretty much do anything you can think of including saying screw this I'll rip the lens out of a $1.99 pair of sunglasses and gaffer tape it over my lens before you increase the shutter speed.
 
gonzo_entertainment said:
"I'm basically stuck with jacking up the shutter to insane amounts in order to expose properly."

You should pretty much do anything you can think of including saying screw this I'll rip the lens out of a $1.99 pair of sunglasses and gaffer tape it over my lens before you increase the shutter speed.
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Why is this?

For fast moving objects/people (like sports) I prefer higher shutter speed so everything isn't blurred and you can see what's going on more clearly (and lift stills from the video footage better). Of course the camera better be steady or the jerkiness increases substantially.

But is there a "real" reason not to jack the shutter? I know rule of thumb is shutter should be double frame rate, but not sure why other than general "natural-looking" aesthetic.
 
Bfilms said:
Why is this?

For fast moving objects/people (like sports) I prefer higher shutter speed so everything isn't blurred and you can see what's going on more clearly (and lift stills from the video footage better). Of course the camera better be steady or the jerkiness increases substantially.

But is there a "real" reason not to jack the shutter? I know rule of thumb is shutter should be double frame rate, but not sure why other than general "natural-looking" aesthetic.
Click to expand...

Because it usually looks strobie and weird. It's ok, sometimes, for sports/action type stuff, even some music video scenarios, but for any kind of narrative work it generally looks like crap.
 
DBP said:
So right now I don't have an ND filter for my GH2. I'm planning on getting a heliopan vari-ND soon, but I just can't afford the $$$ right now, and I really don't want to settle for a cheap-o one.

When shooting outside right now, I'm basically stuck with jacking up the shutter to insane amounts in order to expose properly. Is there any post workflow that can add blur to simulate the look of 1/40-1/50 shutter speed if it was shot with a shutter speed of 1/500 or 1/1000?

Grateful if anyone has any tips.
Click to expand...

You can... parish the thought... stop down to f/22. I was out the other day shooting at ISO 100, f/22 in 'bright sun'... I'm thinking about getting fixed ND filters of 1, 2, and 3 stop increments. But that's to move down from f/22 where one may have 'diffraction' issues, and get the exposure into the f/8 zone...
 
j1clark@ucsd.edu said:
You can... parish the thought... stop down to f/22. I was out the other day shooting at ISO 100, f/22 in 'bright sun'... I'm thinking about getting fixed ND filters of 1, 2, and 3 stop increments. But that's to move down from f/22 where one may have 'diffraction' issues, and get the exposure into the f/8 zone...
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Yep, I have seen occasions I couldn't get a good exposure at lowest ISO and min aperture, but usually on my lenses that only go to f16. I use an ND to be able to get to more reasonable F stop numbers, but given the choice of f16/f22 or increasing the shutter I'd try everything before I increased the shutter speed.
 
many times, you will be better off trying to mix between fstop and shutter when in a jam. when shooting at f 22, you introduce lens issues you wouldn't have if you opened the iris a few stops.
 
maranfilms said:
many times, you will be better off trying to mix between fstop and shutter when in a jam. when shooting at f 22, you introduce lens issues you wouldn't have if you opened the iris a few stops.
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That's when I'd put an ND filter on, to try and avoid going above f8.

At my budget level I despise shooting outside and avoid it whenever possible. If I had a grip truck full of 12' silks and 12K HMIs I imagine I'd like it a lot more.
 
gonzo_entertainment said:
That's when I'd put an ND filter on, to try and avoid going above f8.

At my budget level I despise shooting outside and avoid it whenever possible. If I had a grip truck full of 12' silks and 12K HMIs I imagine I'd like it a lot more.
Click to expand...

The panny 20mm only goes to f16 I think, which is still too bright for sunny days around here. The 14-42 goes to F22, but in both those cases, there's major softening which is not worth it to me.

I buckled down and got the Polaroid 52mm Fader ND filter, plus a step up ring for 60$. I closes down to a max of 8.3 stops, which still might force me to use a high aperture on the brightest days.

I know the quality isn't the best, but it should suffice with the shorter lenses until I can afford the Heliopan.

I definitely see why people long for the AF100 and it's built in ND.
 
Consider getting a circular polarizer and a 3-stop ND filter for the largest lens diameter you have, then get a step down ring for smaller lenses. The combination cuts about 5 stops of exposure, and sometimes more because the effect of the polarizer cuts the brightness of the sky, so it doesn't overexpose as quickly. This combo has served me well for outdoor shooting ever since 2009 when I got my GH1. I use it on all sunny outdoor video shoots.
Then it's just a matter of adjusting the f-stop or ISO a little, and shutter speed can be left alone. If need be, however, I find shutter settings between 1/50 to 1/100th to be acceptable as far as "naturalistic" motion blur.
 
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