GH2 GH2 for HD video?

G

Greg_E

Veteran
I went back through about 12 pages here and will probably do more research as time permits, but wanted to ask if there was a good summary on using a GH2 for HD. I'm thinking GH2 because prices are pretty far down now and it might fit my needs, 4K is pretty far off for me. I won't be using this for making money, if it was for money I would probably find a way to go FS7 or maybe used C100 for a cheaper alternative to the Sony. I'd prefer to stay with a "super 35" size (APS-C sort of), but money is not there for the things I might want to do. I've looked at EOS-M as a possible alternative, but prices are about the same as GH2. Same can be said for Sony NEX-5n and it overheats without hardware mods, 5R and 5T go for more than GH2 or the same amount. This all points back to the GH2 as being a "cheaper" choice to move forward so I hope it makes sense.

Here is what I currently possess:

Fuji X-T1 camera - great stills, horrible moire in the 60fps modes, bad moire in 24p and 30p modes. It also has no way to connect a viewfinder, so you are forced to stick your face directly behind the camera to operate, right angle is the only other mode that I'll be able to get. Hoping that Fuji might fix some of this in the next firmware, but I doubt they will and the may not be able to fix it due to hardware limitations. Built my own cage, not great but it works for the things I was planning to do. Waiting for the next firmware before I make another step, supposed to be out this month.

Mamiya 645 lenses in 35mm, 45mm, 55mm, 80mm, 110mm, 150mm, 210mm from film stills days. These produce the almost acceptable video on the X-T1 so very likely to keep using them when size is not a concern. They are cheaper on average than FD glass right now, I was plenty happy when shooting stills on film with them, and the testing on the above suggests I'll be happy with them for video once I get some focus gears and maybe declick them.

Some basic 15mm LWS rod rig stuff which is ever evolving.

Here's what I want to know, am I on the right track here:

GH2 with hacked firmware - need good 1080 30p and 24p, need good 720 60p

Use one of the speed boosters to Canon EF, then EF to m645. This would give me back slightly wide if I buy the m645 24mm lens.

Use an outboard audio recorder like maybe a Tascam d60mk2.

Use a V mount battery, I have access to plenty at work and extra V mounts that won't fit the gear at work so I can make a battery plate to attach to 15mm rods. I also have old NP-1 batteries and holders that I could use, a little cheaper and probably do just as well for me. I can build any electronic circuits needed for voltage conversion (5v, 9v, etc)

What I don't know:

1. Does the GH2 support HDMI output so I can use some kind of monitor for a view finder? Is it HD output and clean? HD is important, clean may not be depending on how I go.

2. What about moire? Not seeing much discussion of this in the Flowmotion threads so I'm hoping this issue is not present in the majority of shots. The Flowmotion seems like the hack to use because it offers good bit rate, better search/compression scheme, and clip spanning with fast cards.

3. What about triggering the recording, is there a device to start the recording from a button press that is wired down on a handle (remote shutter release)? My current camera has a dedicated video record button, had to rig up a solenoid to make it start and stop recording from an off camera control. Big pain but I'd do it again if needed.

4. Is there a focus magnification in video mode, even if it only works when the camera is not recording? I know I don't get focus highlights with the GH2 but magnify would certainly help based on #1 above.

So am I on the correct track for a "discount" HD camera with a larger than 16mm sensor?
 
I moved up to a Blackmagic Cinema Camera but I still use my GH2 regularly.

I can answer the following:

1.) Yes. I use a Lilliput external monitor all the time and it just connects right away, no problems. It will see what the camera's screen sees. Meaning you can see all your shooting info or you can turn that off and just see the image. PLUS I get focus peaking on it. Killer.

2.) Moire has been really a non-issue. Especially with Flowmotion.

3.) I have no idea. Never thought about that. Perhaps someone else can answer. ** Can you remote trigger the GH2 folks? **

4.) Yes. Just touch the screen where you want it to center and you get the magnification, then press escape to exit.

With the insane low price you can get a GH2 for now (I just saw someone post a mint one here for like $300) I think it's still a great camera. I certainly can't think of anything that could touch it for that price.

Add the speedbooster and it's even better. I have the Mitakon version (Nikon to M4/3) and it's pretty much always on. Love it. The wider view and the extra light are really great.




Readers: Can the GH2 be remote triggered in any way?
 
The the magnify only works where you touch? I was hoping for a button that would magnify a central area. Might have to think about how I would handle this.

Is it a restive touch screen (will register with any object like a plastic pointer) or capacitive touch (only works with a bare finger)? Just thinking of workarounds to get the function I want without having to snake my finger inside a rig to touch the screen. Again a solenoid might be just the thing I need, but would work best on a resistive touch screen.

Yes I saw one for sale here at a decently low price, same goes for ebay and that started me thinking. Really wish Fuji would/could fix my current camera, but I doubt it can be done.
 
I've sold my GH2 so hazy on the details, but there's a button push that provides a magnified view with manual lenses. With native m4/3 lenses, setting focus to MF and turning the lens' focus ring activates magnify.

HDMI output is only for 1080p; it is disabled when the camera is set to 720p.

There are cheap wired remotes for the GH2 available on EBay. However they connect to the same 2.5mm port used by audio input, so you can't use a remote and an external mic simultaneously (this was fixed on the G6, which is essentially a GH2.5).
 
HDMI is clean as in all the overlays can be turned off, but out is only 1080, 60i 8-bit (24p embedded/telecined). If you are thinking about using an external video recorder check out this guide. Moire is almost a non issue with the GH2. I have the flowmotion hack on mine and it pretty rock solid. Have BMPCC now, but still love using my GH2.

More guides to get you started if you decide the GH2.
http://www.eoshd.com/gh2-guide-book/
http://osgfilms.com/gh2-quickstart/
Hacking
https://vimeo.com/46463519
 
The gh2 is a great camera, I still own one, however I'm not using it very often. The only issue when using the HDMI port on the gh2 is it cripples the 720 60p function. (If I correctly recall) However, the 720 60p is pretty sharp. I have it in a GINI Cage which does a great job protecting it while giving lots of mounting options. Make an offer? Gh2 w/kit lens-Gini gh2 cage-Lilliput monitor (older hdmi version 7" w/spare batt) Great starter kit! (have original box)
 
With the flowmotion or one of the other firmwares, can you get 1080 at 60p? I could down convert for those times I need a 720/60p output. Would it record 1080 60i? That might work OK to sample down to 720 too.

I've done a few 1080/30p to 720/60p and they never look right to me, even worse if you need to go down to NTSC interlaced, the motion is never right looking.
 
I tested the remote trigger with my intervalometer and works just fine in movie mode. Makes sense, because once you switch to movie mode the photo trigger works as the movie trigger.
 
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OK. To sum up.

The GH2 only does 60frames per second in 720P, not in 1080P.

Yes, you can use a remote trigger control, but not at the same time as using the external audio input.

No, moire is really not much of an issue with this camera.

The magnify function can be set to a button, or you can just tap the touch screen. Where you touch on the screen determines where the image will center when magnified. This helps a ton if what you want to focus on is off to the side of your frame as this would normally not be visible with a straight centered zoom.

You can view the HDMI output on an external monitor, but if you want to record the HDMI signal, like with an Atomos Ninja, you will need to decode the recorded signal with free software AVIsynth before it will play back correctly.


And if you're buying, you should definitely make MaranFilms an offer.
 
OK, thanks. I think I have it all down.

I haven't used AVIsynth in years, too bad they use a nonstandard output to the HDMI.
 
If your using a manual lens, the magnification is already set as the "click in" button on the scroll wheel.

I've been successful with Apple Compressor, but JES Deinterlacers reverse Telecine didn't work. The key is in starting the GH2 before the external recorder and stopping the external recorder before stopping the GH2 recording. I'll try to share some raw files if i can. Anyone know of a good one where large files can live on the internet for free.

Here's the AVIsynth guide for the GH2.
 
Thanks for the guide which also links back to one of the GH2 sticky posts.

This brings up a new question:

How much delay does the HDMI have? The info on recording the signal with audio from external source shows an audio offset used during the unmucking process, so now I'm wondering how much of a problem it might be to use an HDMI monitor as a viewfinder??? Obviously some people do this (or did this) so maybe not a huge issue.

The HDMI recording also points out a way I might get 60p (59.94fps) out of this camera, would just need to convert it down to 720 during the unmucking process described in the HDMI recording thread. Not optimum but should get me where I need to be.

For a monitor I may end up with the new Black Magic Video Assist, likely to spend nearly that much on a monitor alone with the added benefit of the recording.
 
Well, I have a "low usage" GH2 and a few lenses on the way. Probably end up selling some of the lenses to bring the price down. Hope it works. Probably going to buy a focal reducer once I determine that the camera really works.

Has anyone ever made an extension for the back LCD to be able to move it off of the camera? Not sure how many conductors in the flat cable, and how far the signalling method can be run, but it might provide an alternative to HDMI for monitoring. Found out that the 720 modes do not function when an HDMI cable is connected, and the HDMI is always 1080 50i or 60i, but pretty non-standard. I don't think I'm going to bother with an external recorder for this camera, not really worth the added expense right now.
 
Prices on "lightly used" GH3's are coming down sometimes quite close to what a decent GH2 is fetching. For budget but extremely high quality full HD work, this would be the way to go. There'd be no "futzing around" with 720p!

Watch the "For Sale or Want To Buy" forum on this site and the "Buy Sell" forum on mu-43.com. I see them fairly frequently on both. I also have 2 low usage GH3 bodies with around 300 shutter cycles on one and probably just over 450 on the other going up on the block soon. Send PM for info if interested.

Wherever you get it from, a GH3 in decent shape is WAY SUPERIOR to the GH2 in just about every way. Color is improved, definition (without any real fuss) is impressive, and the GH3 is better for stills when the need for that comes up. I find color right out of the camera is what I want. My GH3's get little use now that I have a GH4.

Just something to consider.
 
Thanks, I forgot about the mu-43 forums. What I've been seeing on ebay is GH2 is going around $300 to $400 for good condition used, GH3 is going for more like $600 to $700. But I'll take a look. One of our former students was just in my office and we were talking about it, he has another year left at a different school and wants to buy something, was thinking a t5i but I'm not sure it is worth the money as those used prices are getting up there.

The 720 thing is only really a factor for things intended to run through our studio at work, we went with the ATSC standard 720/59.94p as it is widely accepted and gives the same motion characteristics that we were accustomed to seeing from interlaced SD. I have compared some things with GH2 vs. GH3 and the color does normally look better on GH3, but the internal bit rate is much lower (than hacked GH2) which does have an impact. The 60+ mbps with short GOP in the 3 to 6 range definitely helps with some motion artifacts, but you are right that there is some futzing around with things like HDMI and 2.5mm audio. Thankfully I can afford to futz which is half the fun for me. I do have some real story ideas that I want to do, and 1080/30p should be fine for those. If I decide I want to go with an external recorder, then GH3 is the way to go unless I decide to step up to 4K and then I might go NX-1 or A7s, but that's a whole different monetary plan.
 
I'm late to the party, but I still love my GH2. I have the GH4, and obviously use it much more, but if the GH2 had focus peaking I may not have been quite so quick to jump on the GH4 (and if the GH3 had had focus peaking, I would have probably purchased it.)
 
blazer003 said:
I'm late to the party, but I still love my GH2. I have the GH4, and obviously use it much more, but if the GH2 had focus peaking I may not have been quite so quick to jump on the GH4 (and if the GH3 had had focus peaking, I would have probably purchased it.)
Click to expand...

Which is why I like my G6 (=GH2.5, with 1080p60 and focus peaking, although sadly no hack).
 
I priced the G6, but it was too close to a GH3 in price which is about double what I wanted to spend for my specific needs. The lack of hacks did indeed push me towards the "inferior" GH2, but price was certainly part of it too. I was looking at NEX-5n/r/t and never seemed to find a price that was low enough to bother. The Canon have some moire issues much like my Fuji, so they were not a real choice for me.

Good news is it shipped so I should be fooling with it soon. Need to buy some lens adapters, need a decent EF and a Mamiya 645. Not sure what to get for a speed booster, double the price of the body for Metabones, or go with a cheaper Mitakon, or going with the even cheaper RJ. Wonder if I can rent all three at the same time??? That would let me decide which was going to be best and maybe that I don't even really care to have one at all.

Lenses of choice will be as mentioned in the first post Mamiya 645 from 35 to 210 primes, not sure I'll get a zoom but if I do it will probably be an old FD with edmika EF mount. I have m645 to EF adapter.
 
Be careful buying the adapters. I bought one of these cheap FD focal boosters and the mount is too sloppy to use for video. Most of my other standard adapters have fit fine (brands:Fotodiox & Fotasy).

Anyone know how to fix the sloppiness of an adapter?
 
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