tbirdparis
Member
Hi, I've searched and read a lot of the information on this forum and others, but haven't found any mention of what just happened to me so I thought it was worth a new post.
A few days ago I used the ptools hack (latest version with winebottler mac osx), following the instructions I've read and also following the video instructions from Bradley Steenkamp on Vimeo and another user on YouTube. At the time I only had a class 6 card, so I created a firmware hack using the "B" settings, just to test things out without trying to push it.
The first time I tried to install it on the camera, I got the dreaded "no picture to display" error. So I went back and redid the ptools hack but changed my version increment to a higher number (as per suggestions I found on this forum) and it worked. Shot some footage, checked the average bit rate in VLC and compared it visually to earlier stuff I shot. The bitrate was generally higher and the footage looked better. All good, seemed to have done the trick. The system version also showed 0.0 as it should.
Today I picked up a Class 10 card so I thought I'd try re-hacking to see what the "C" settings are like. Went ahead and followed all the instructions again, carefully put in the numbers for the "C" setting (AVCHD FHD/SHD only, am not using MJPEG). Then I kept version increment and prevent version compare ticked as I had done previously, saved the firmware to the next number up and put the card in the camera. It saw the firmware update right away (no "no picture to display" error this time), so I went ahead with the "version up" thingy.
Here's where it gets a little confusing. The first time I ran the firmware update the other day, it took a good amount of time to do its thing, with the green progress bar chugging along. This time, the green bar barely appeared at all, like for a split second. Then it said to turn the camera off and on.
It all works fine, I haven't bricked it or anything. But I just can't tell if I changed to the "C" settings or not... My understanding is that every time you "up" the firmware, the camera thinks it's installing a completely full official firmware update, so surely the progress bar should take roughly the same amount of time every time you do it? Not just a sudden quick display of the progress bar as soon as you say "yes" to up the firmware and then almost instantly it's done?
I shot a test video (trying to make sure I got a wide shot with lots of movement, color and contrast to make the codec work hard), and looked at the stats in VLC. It does appear to show some higher figures than previously, but I'm not sure if it's still at the previous settings or if indeed I've jacked it up to 50 mbps. In VLC I'm never sure which statistic I should be most relying on, "read at media" or "input bitrate" or "stream bitrate". The system version on the camera still says 0.0 as it should I guess.
So I tried doing the same process again, same settings in ptools but named the firmware file one figure higher and left increment at 1. Again, the camera saw the firmware update right away and I ran it.. same thing, the progress bar barely appeared and within no time it said to turn the camera off and on.
So my question is.. Is this normal behaviour? The second time or any later times you install a new hacked firmware, is it supposed to install really fast? As in, is it just updating a couple of settings and leaving the rest alone? Or is it just rejecting my new settings?
I'm wondering if it's because I left _both_ "version increment" and "prevent version compare" ticked the second time I created a hacked firmware file. Some people have said it's fine to leave them both checked every time you perform the operation, others say just to leave "version increment" ticked for subsequent hacks.
Sorry for the long post, I figured it was better to clearly explain the steps I took rather than be vague.
Appreciate any insight someone might have into this, so all input is welcome. Also, if anyone knows of a more reliable way of determining the bitrate of the video files, that would be great. For example, if there's any other software apart from VLC that can show you the maximum bitrate in clearly understandable terms so you know you _must_ be at the "C" settings because it would be impossible to get the numbers you are getting at lower settings, that would help too.
Cheers!
A few days ago I used the ptools hack (latest version with winebottler mac osx), following the instructions I've read and also following the video instructions from Bradley Steenkamp on Vimeo and another user on YouTube. At the time I only had a class 6 card, so I created a firmware hack using the "B" settings, just to test things out without trying to push it.
The first time I tried to install it on the camera, I got the dreaded "no picture to display" error. So I went back and redid the ptools hack but changed my version increment to a higher number (as per suggestions I found on this forum) and it worked. Shot some footage, checked the average bit rate in VLC and compared it visually to earlier stuff I shot. The bitrate was generally higher and the footage looked better. All good, seemed to have done the trick. The system version also showed 0.0 as it should.
Today I picked up a Class 10 card so I thought I'd try re-hacking to see what the "C" settings are like. Went ahead and followed all the instructions again, carefully put in the numbers for the "C" setting (AVCHD FHD/SHD only, am not using MJPEG). Then I kept version increment and prevent version compare ticked as I had done previously, saved the firmware to the next number up and put the card in the camera. It saw the firmware update right away (no "no picture to display" error this time), so I went ahead with the "version up" thingy.
Here's where it gets a little confusing. The first time I ran the firmware update the other day, it took a good amount of time to do its thing, with the green progress bar chugging along. This time, the green bar barely appeared at all, like for a split second. Then it said to turn the camera off and on.
It all works fine, I haven't bricked it or anything. But I just can't tell if I changed to the "C" settings or not... My understanding is that every time you "up" the firmware, the camera thinks it's installing a completely full official firmware update, so surely the progress bar should take roughly the same amount of time every time you do it? Not just a sudden quick display of the progress bar as soon as you say "yes" to up the firmware and then almost instantly it's done?
I shot a test video (trying to make sure I got a wide shot with lots of movement, color and contrast to make the codec work hard), and looked at the stats in VLC. It does appear to show some higher figures than previously, but I'm not sure if it's still at the previous settings or if indeed I've jacked it up to 50 mbps. In VLC I'm never sure which statistic I should be most relying on, "read at media" or "input bitrate" or "stream bitrate". The system version on the camera still says 0.0 as it should I guess.
So I tried doing the same process again, same settings in ptools but named the firmware file one figure higher and left increment at 1. Again, the camera saw the firmware update right away and I ran it.. same thing, the progress bar barely appeared and within no time it said to turn the camera off and on.
So my question is.. Is this normal behaviour? The second time or any later times you install a new hacked firmware, is it supposed to install really fast? As in, is it just updating a couple of settings and leaving the rest alone? Or is it just rejecting my new settings?
I'm wondering if it's because I left _both_ "version increment" and "prevent version compare" ticked the second time I created a hacked firmware file. Some people have said it's fine to leave them both checked every time you perform the operation, others say just to leave "version increment" ticked for subsequent hacks.
Sorry for the long post, I figured it was better to clearly explain the steps I took rather than be vague.
Appreciate any insight someone might have into this, so all input is welcome. Also, if anyone knows of a more reliable way of determining the bitrate of the video files, that would be great. For example, if there's any other software apart from VLC that can show you the maximum bitrate in clearly understandable terms so you know you _must_ be at the "C" settings because it would be impossible to get the numbers you are getting at lower settings, that would help too.
Cheers!