GH1 Stereoscopic Rig Collaboration

g.l said:
"The DC coupler and AC adaptor for this model are not marketed in the United Kingdom unfortunately."
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Don't panic (like in Hitchhiker's Guide...). We still have e-bay and I suppose that there will be possibilities how to get it to the UK. Does this info hold for entire EU? It would be a real punishment which started with only 24p version of GH2. :(
 
crunchy said:
Don't panic (like in Hitchhiker's Guide...). We still have e-bay and I suppose that there will be possibilities how to get it to the UK.
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I'm not, I'm just amazed that Panny would do this. It's available in the EU, these stores for example show it for the right price (~12-14EU), but nobody has stock.

It's also available on Ebay (from Japan), but for a massively inflated price.
 
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I just cancelled my standing order for the AC adaptors from Unique Photo, which was terminal backorder. I paid the extorted price from ebay - Japan.
 
Maybe it is also related to Japan's disaster? I suppose that it will take some time before production will come back to the previous (normal) levels.
 
DIY AC coupler made out of wood. Hell, I'm tempted, after all once it's in there, it is never taken out.

I might use Polymorph though (make a mold of a battery first, then cast it with the wires & contacts in place).
 
Anybody know what voltage the GH2 (or 1) outputs for the remote signal? I'm doing an AVR-based intervalometer after all, after I was inspired by this tiny DIY version (it fits INSIDE the 2.5mm jack! :)) which doesn't use a user interface, but simply times the pause between the first two manually-initiated shots and continues on. I'm hoping to sift off the current for the IC directly from the line.

I plan to hack it all into an el-cheapo Ebay remote (can't beat this price), that way I get the nice moulded shell and double-activation switch (with hold option for bulb exposures).

I've got my GH2 bodies, now I'm slowly piecing together all the extra hardware (lenses, 12V batteries, DC converters etc). Unfortunately the serial no's are a month apart, so I'm hoping I get lucky and they don't drift too badly.
 
Here are colour differences obtained on my beam splitter. The pictures are in parallel format (L-R). The left picture was taken with the camera aiming through the glass and the right picture by reflection. Right picture was afterwards horizontally mirrored.

Using automatic white balance (AWB):
Colour_Chart_AWB_r.jpg

After applying manual white balance (with white paper):
Colour_Chart_MWB_r.jpg

I think that manual WB is not always required...
 
crunchy said:
In both cases it could be trial and error procedure. Good luck with the adaptor and let us know about the result! :thumbsup:
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I just finished them (see pics here) and they work great. Was a fair bit of work though, there's a fairly tight tolerance on everything before it all works and fits perfectly.
 
crunchy said:
Here are colour differences obtained on my beam splitter.
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That's impressive, they look virtually identical. Have you tried setting a fixed white balance preset on both cameras? That should reveal what the true colour difference is (if any).

I shoot with a Nuview 3D attachment which uses a mirror and a prism, and on that I get quite strong colour differences. Is your beamsplitter glass or plastic?
 
Hi,

Are you guys using the original sync shepherd from Rob? Did you design your own PCB or used the one on his site? I'm currently testing sync on some Canon cameras, and I guess I'll need to solder a sync shepherd for myself (even though I already have the LANC shepherd). Haven't been able to sync them yet, but at least the drift doesn't seem too bad...
 
g.l said:
A) Have you tried setting a fixed white balance preset on both cameras?
B) Is your beamsplitter glass or plastic?
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A) Not. I should do it. However, when using AWB some clips are more similar to each other than the others. It depends on situation. As you could see on Vimeo clip, even without glass (when using parallel setup) you could get different WB when using AWB settings.
b) "Beam splitter" is from glass I bought at my local glassmaker, so it's relatively cheap.
 
rikun said:
Are you guys using the original sync shepherd from Rob? Did you design your own PCB or used the one on his site? I'm currently testing sync on some Canon cameras, and I guess I'll need to solder a sync shepherd for myself (even though I already have the LANC shepherd). Haven't been able to sync them yet, but at least the drift doesn't seem too bad...
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I am using my own electronics for synched power up with time offset. I am using ARM processor and some external power components. It's good to have low drift. Is the synch always the same after power-on?
 
No it's definitely not always the same after power up, that would be too easy ;)

I guess I'll build a couple of sync shepherds, I just need something to show me degree of sync all the time.
 
rikun said:
Are you guys using the original sync shepherd from Rob?
Click to expand...

I use Rob's Sync Shepherd with his later modifications to increase the sensitivity at the low-end (changing R4 to 20M (two 10M resistors in series), R5 to 4.7k, and R6 to 220 ohms). My range of interest is 0 - 2 ms offset. Also, I'm using a digital multimeter, rather than a LED bar graph, for accuracy. We've discussed here using an Arduino or other microcontroller to sample the sync (as part of a controller that can alter the power-up timing based on sync offset). I have not, however, found that to be necessary with my GH1s and manual lenses.
 
Guys,

There is an active drive to get the funds for Vitally to acquire two unhackable GH1s (a necessary prerequisite to the GH2 hack). This has two advantages for GHx stereo projects. First, it opens up the unhackable GH1s (now available for $250) to the Gh13 hack. GH13s have already proven to make excellent 3D camera pairs and this value is incredible (while supplies last). Secondly, it leads the way for the GH2 hack. GH2s promise to be even more capable stereo cameras, once hacked. In fact, it may be possible to use a form of jam-sync to sync the hacked GH2s very precisely.

Here's where the donations / goals are being discussed: http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?245476-Is-anybody-still-working-on-a-firmware-hack/page4 as of 2:25 am, 4/15/11, the goal was 50% complete.
 
Here is a short clip taken last weekend with a pair of GH13 with my beam splitter (cross-view). The colours are left untouched to show the differences between both cameras in automatic white balance mode.

 
rikun said:
No it's definitely not always the same after power up, that would be too easy ;)

I guess I'll build a couple of sync shepherds, I just need something to show me degree of sync all the time.
Click to expand...

Fortunately, it's easy with GH1s. After power-on with my system (3DSLR Master) the synch is the always the same (OK, for more than 99% of the time).
Why do you need a COUPLE OF shepherds? One should be enough.
 
HI, All

I just finished to set up my new 3D rig based on twin Panasonic GH2.
3D photos of the 3D rigs (a SBS rig, a BS type macro rig and a hyper rig with various kinds of lenses) are shown as follows;
http://v-galleries.com/images/Twin_GH2_Rig/index.htm

Sync is realized by using a remote shutter and an external battery system for simultaneous power on and found to be perfectly synchronized in the 60P time sequence in Premiere CS5 as same as in my GH13 based system. The 60i(60fps) footage of GH2 is found to be better than 24P of GH13 in term of 3D synchronization. The drift of sync of my particular twin pair with adjacent serial numbers is found to be about 50 micro Sec/min, the best in my experience.

Regards,
inoue_k3D
 
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