GH1 GH1 arriving this week.. questions from newbie

1. Yes not amazing but good enough
2. wheel controls aperture (number bottome left of lcd) and shutter speed (next right to it) when pushing in the wheel it selects between the two (highlighted by yellow) for starting out for general use make sure the left (aperture) is 3.5 (f3.5) right is 50 (if your pal user) or 60 (if your ntsc user) then you can leave them (till you learn more) an just control iso if you want brighter images.

The lower number the shutter speed the image will be brighter BUT the jerkier your video motion will be same goes for higher but your image will get darker...shutter speeds is primarily for photography but can be handy for more light (example I go down to 30 for more light sometimes) or a particular effect (say like recreating the look of the action scenes in saving private ryan)
with using shutter speed for video just know what framerate your using (pal 25fps..ntsc 30fps) and double it for best smooth motion results.
Higher shutter speeds are at its best with faster lenses (like the 20mm pancake) for slowmotion or sharper images.

3. Dont know lol

If you are new to DSLRs and want to learn quickly about f values, shutter speed etc get "digital slr cameras and photography for dummies" covers all basic areas with dslr jargon.
 
mimirsan said:
I can HIGHLY recommend the Nikon G 35mm f1.8 DX...just make sure you get the correct adapter with aperture control. A truly superb lense at a great price....and sooo easy to auto focus with.
Click to expand...
+1. Nikkor 50mm A-s is really nice, but it's a bit long for indoor. The 35mm 1.8 has roughly 65mm FOV on GH1. Very good for indoor portrait. Also the lens gives fast AF in Nikon crop bodies like D90.

I thought a lot about this... as many did.

25mm seems more useful indoor... I think. I'm not a big fan of head & shoulder portraits anymore. I'm aging. So are my friends. 25mm lens seems better for 1.85x cropped system to get indoor full body portrait. 50mm is great on little kids. Their heads and bodies r smaller than adults. So 50mm can do full body portrait on kids indoor. Then 35mm is sorta sitting between 25mm and 50mm. I'd rather keep 25mm and 50mm. But keeping only 35mm should work also.

12 mm useful indoor and outdoor. Also a nice addition to the set. 12mm -> 25mm -> 50mm. FOV doubles in each succession. But having 3 primes could be cumbersome to carry sometimes. How about 12-50mm zoom with fast speed at 12mm? I bought a lot of lenses and I'm selling them at no loss. Hopefully I get enough coins to buy the rumored new pro zoom from Panasonic. Some consider O.I.S. is worthless feature, but it is important for me.

Eventually... I think... most of us will use M43 lenses instead of other lens types. Most Canon owners use Canon lenses. Most Nikon owners use Nikon lenses.
 
I really don't mean to hijack this thread but as somebody who is also new to DSLR's I am trying to figure out just how much more sensitive a F1.8 lens would be compared to the F3.5 kit lens. I compared F3.5 and F1.8 on my HMC40 video camera and the results were pretty big but I'm not sure if this is an accurate comparison.
 
Stops of light are stops of light no matter in which system. Going from f3.5 to f1.8 means 2 additional stops.

You'd have the same exposure in a given amount of light at both f3.5 + 12db and f1.8 + 0db.

In ISO language, it would be the same exposure in both f3.5 at ISO 1600 and f1.8 at ISO 400.
 
Pietro Impagliazzo said:
Stops of light are stops of light no matter in which system. Going from f3.5 to f1.8 means 2 additional stops.

You'd have the same exposure in a given amount of light at both f3.5 + 12db and f1.8 + 0db.

In ISO language, it would be the same exposure in both f3.5 at ISO 1600 and f1.8 at ISO 400.
Click to expand...

Dude that was an awesome response and exactly what I was looking for. I kind of figured from my own eye balling that it was kind of close to 12db of gain on the HMC40. That is huge. Now I need to save up for the pancake lens.
 
mimirsan said:
1. Yes not amazing but good enough
2. wheel controls aperture (number bottome left of lcd) and shutter speed (next right to it) when pushing in the wheel it selects between the two (highlighted by yellow) for starting out for general use make sure the left (aperture) is 3.5 (f3.5) right is 50 (if your pal user) or 60 (if your ntsc user) then you can leave them (till you learn more) an just control iso if you want brighter images.

The lower number the shutter speed the image will be brighter BUT the jerkier your video motion will be same goes for higher but your image will get darker...shutter speeds is primarily for photography but can be handy for more light (example I go down to 30 for more light sometimes) or a particular effect (say like recreating the look of the action scenes in saving private ryan)
with using shutter speed for video just know what framerate your using (pal 25fps..ntsc 30fps) and double it for best smooth motion results.
Higher shutter speeds are at its best with faster lenses (like the 20mm pancake) for slowmotion or sharper images.

3. Dont know lol

If you are new to DSLRs and want to learn quickly about f values, shutter speed etc get "digital slr cameras and photography for dummies" covers all basic areas with dslr jargon.
Click to expand...


Thanks! appreciate the info. My screen was so dark because I had the aperture and shutter up. So now it works!
 
stonebat said:
+1. Nikkor 50mm A-s is really nice, but it's a bit long for indoor. The 35mm 1.8 has roughly 65mm FOV on GH1. Very good for indoor portrait. Also the lens gives fast AF in Nikon crop bodies like D90.

I thought a lot about this... as many did.

25mm seems more useful indoor... I think. I'm not a big fan of head & shoulder portraits anymore. I'm aging. So are my friends. 25mm lens seems better for 1.85x cropped system to get indoor full body portrait. 50mm is great on little kids. Their heads and bodies r smaller than adults. So 50mm can do full body portrait on kids indoor. Then 35mm is sorta sitting between 25mm and 50mm. I'd rather keep 25mm and 50mm. But keeping only 35mm should work also.

12 mm useful indoor and outdoor. Also a nice addition to the set. 12mm -> 25mm -> 50mm. FOV doubles in each succession. But having 3 primes could be cumbersome to carry sometimes. How about 12-50mm zoom with fast speed at 12mm? I bought a lot of lenses and I'm selling them at no loss. Hopefully I get enough coins to buy the rumored new pro zoom from Panasonic. Some consider O.I.S. is worthless feature, but it is important for me.

Eventually... I think... most of us will use M43 lenses instead of other lens types. Most Canon owners use Canon lenses. Most Nikon owners use Nikon lenses.
Click to expand...


Isn't the GH1/Gh2/all micro 4/3 cameras 2x cropped sensors, not 1.85x?
 
Thomas Smet said:
I really don't mean to hijack this thread but as somebody who is also new to DSLR's I am trying to figure out just how much more sensitive a F1.8 lens would be compared to the F3.5 kit lens. I compared F3.5 and F1.8 on my HMC40 video camera and the results were pretty big but I'm not sure if this is an accurate comparison.
Click to expand...
1 gain in aperture is roughly one and a third gain in iso in GH1. That's from 1600 iso to 640 iso. In GH2, one and two third gain. From 1600 iso to 500. It makes drastic difference.
 
Some said 7D has a crop factor of 1.7 in 16:9 mode. For close up shots, 7's crop factor might be close to 1.85 of GH1. 7D LCD. GH1 EVF. Frankly I don't really worry about crop factor much anymore.
 
What's the difference between a Canon FD 50mm 1.8 and a Canon EF 50mm 1.8 lens? both work on the GH1?
 
Anyone?
I wanted to also ask, when I am in creative video mode, I can only use Manual focus? I also notice that when in Manual focus, when I press the shutter button halfway, the lens will focus. Is that the way it suppose to work or is that just another way to focus other than turning the lens?
 
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