Get rid of that ugly yellow fringe around highlights!

Somehow I'm always at my peak when it comes to dig into problems around midnight and today was no exception! I started to dig into what can be done to already overexposed highlights and found a quick way to reduce that nasty yellow fringe one gets when overexposing. I wish Panasonic could do this already in the camera so it wouldn't be an issue.

Look at these before and after images and the clipping in the hair.

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Before / After
 
I don't whether it is me or the monitor, but I can't really see much difference.
Of course, I could be going blind.
 
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There's a difference? You've got one heck of an eye for color.

EDIT: Ah I see, much more noticable in the larger images :-)
 
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Yeah, I definitely see it in the larger versions. Reduced chroma in-camera?, reduce highlight saturation in post?

Curious as well of your solution..
 
Desat highlights to a certain degree. Defined by percentages in clipping.

Common technique in color correction.
 
You have to click on the images to see the difference. My point is why can't this be done in the camera to get a better image? I applied a video limiter filter in Premiere so it was easy to smooth the clipping by getting rid of the yellow skew we get when overexposing. I don't think anyone wants this skew so come on Panasonic add a limiter!

This is how the settings looks in Premiere:

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I applied a video limiter filter in Premiere so it was easy to smooth the clipping by getting rid of the yellow skew we get when overexposing. I don't think anyone wants this skew so come on Panasonic add a limiter!

Man to Doctor: "I get a yellow skew ".

Doctor to man: "When does this happen?"

Man tto DOctor: " Happens when I over expose"

Doctor to man: "So...dont over expose then"

Man to Doctor: ".... oh...cant I get a pill for it"
 
That is the safe way to do it but can you honestly say you never ever overexpose?

I think it's unrealistic to never get (because it's not avoidable) or never want overexposed highlights in certain shots, and it would be great, if like many cameras out there, the fringing did not exist. I'm with you Editman.
 
over exposing certain parts of the image can be a choice. But I want them to look good. I too have found that playing with curves and saturation completely eliminates the issue.
 
It's true, sometimes that blown out look for parts of the image is desired, and many times in doc situations you have to make a compromise and choose what you're going to expose, and what's going to get overexposed, so it would be nice if the overexposure happened gracefully. Hopefully this is something the engineering team is looking into, it's been a consistent comment that's been generated since the Japan shootout.
 
over exposing certain parts of the image can be a choice. But I want them to look good. I too have found that playing with curves and saturation completely eliminates the issue.
+1 Blown highlights are part of a look that you may want.
I've had the yellow overexposure happen mostly in the gray sky when its not nice and blue. I'm aware of it now and try to avoid pushing it. I have to admit it does bug me.
 
I think Panasonic could remedy this by just adjusting software to limit and hopefully compress highlights like what happens in their consumer m4/3 cameras.
 
Why not blow it out in post? There's a wide range of filters that can do this with lots of control. Once you
saturate the sensor, you're pretty much screwed if you change your mind later. So .. I'm kind of with
Shooter and his Henny Youngman solution to the problem.

jeff
 
That is the safe way to do it but can you honestly say you never ever overexpose?

I have over exposed often. (each time I did it... was a when I screwed up.)

Over and Under exposure is a term that to me, that generally means error. I never say to my AC or Gaffer ..."lets under/over expose the face tones or the green screen or the highlights". What is the point of reference for under / over exposure?

We set exposures to sit within the upper and lower limits of the camera ( wfm) and do it by combination of camera controls and lighting. We set the stop by calling it as an f-stop (t-stop). Adjustments to the stop are called by open /close "eg." 1/2, 1,1/4 stop .....or simply line open, line closed on the specifyed stop ...

I do frequently expose parts of my image into the higher end (high key) of the waveform scale but I call that correct exposure. (ie level control).

Re your issue and my AF102 experience....I burnt out a window - deliberately - on a recent shot and it did not exhibit any fringing.

I also had to deal with some specular highlights on a product shot. (hundreds of tiny spots of moisture on a block of cheese)
I knew they were in the clipper (wfm) but could do nothing about them photographically (or with the art department).
Left it for post to fix and we fixed them in Flame despite the fact they had zero detail...but they also did not have any fringing.

Just working right now on a shot of a fizzing , bubbling coke pour over ice . It has full range of tones from shadow to "highlight" (and speculars) and I can not see any fringing in this either. This camera continues to amaze me.
 
Over exposing and underexposing is as common as toast and coffe in the morning. It happened and fixed in the good old days of film, motion and stills, and it happens in the digital domain nowadays. That is exactly why Hollywood pays top dollar to editors and colorists. Fixing and outputting top notch footage from so-so original files is an art in itself.
 
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