Fuji X-T3 released

puredrifting said:
The exposure compensation thing too is a bummer as I really need something like the XF16-80mm f/4.0 OIS or even for my XF18-55mm f/2.8-4.0 OIS to just work so I can reframe during shoots. You can't really shoot documentaries nearly as effectively with just using zooms as variable primes. I roll constantly and have captured some magical things when I was rolling and moved the zoom to reframe. The exposure compensation has ruined some many great shots.
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This thread suggests that enabling Auto ISO helps with the flicker issue when zooming with Fuji lenses:
https://www.fujix-forum.com/threads/xt3-18-55-lens-light-flicker.89114

This isn't really a full solution of course, since depending on what you are shooting, Auto ISO could be problematic for other reasons. But it still might be worth a try to see if it makes a difference.
 
For #2 on the lenses, I've read the same thing. But I'm not sure why my old FD zooms with purely manual controls don't seem to change as I zoom them (maybe the f3.5 fixed is the reason). And normally on the TV zooms that do ramp, once you set past that ramp point they are constant exposure.
 
The problem is that fuji "constant aperture" lenses change the iris opening throughout the zoom range.
It's not a temporary iris blade movement to facilitate element repositioning during zooming as has been suggested.
The iris remains partially closed at certain focal lengths.

This YouTube video illustrates this perfectly at the end...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=onTm42ciudA

WTF.

I've observed the same behavior from the 10-24 at F4 and the 16-55 at F2.8.

This means at certain focal lengths you cannot access the full luminosity the lens is capable of?

Sad.
 
davedv said:
This thread suggests that enabling Auto ISO helps with the flicker issue when zooming with Fuji lenses:
https://www.fujix-forum.com/threads/xt3-18-55-lens-light-flicker.89114

This isn't really a full solution of course, since depending on what you are shooting, Auto ISO could be problematic for other reasons. But it still might be worth a try to see if it makes a difference.
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I've read this same thing, but supposedly the FW 3.0 negated this. I honestly haven't tried it but I will today and will report back to be sure. Auto ISO wouldn't work for most of us anyway but it's worth a try just to see. I read another post that said the issue is actually that the exposure compensation is physically built into the XF lenses,
but I don't buy that because my Canon lenses do it as well with the Fringer Pro. The whole issue is a big mystery as to what actually causes it to happen and what a possible solution could be. Is it the FW? Lens FW? Lenses themselves? Who knows? All I know is that if it can't be defeated, I may jump ship back to a Canon DSLR, the 90D.
It won't look as good as the XT-3 but at least I could zoom and use AF without penalty.
 
Luis De La Cerda said:
The problem is that fuji "constant aperture" lenses change the iris opening throughout the zoom range.
It's not a temporary iris blade movement to facilitate element repositioning during zooming as has been suggested.
The iris remains partially closed at certain focal lengths.

This YouTube video illustrates this perfectly at the end...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=onTm42ciudA

WTF.

I've observed the same behavior from the 10-24 at F4 and the 16-55 at F2.8.

This means at certain focal lengths you cannot access the full luminosity the lens is capable of?

Sad.
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Thanks for the video Luis. This illustrates the issue perfectly. Also notice the clip with the Sony A7 RIII and the Sony zooms. Perfect focus tracking on the zoom and no exposure compensation ramping. If Sony can do it, why can't Fuji? The Fuji image is so good, the colors and tone, the camera is great but shooting video with the XF zooms is a hot mess.
 
puredrifting said:
Thanks for the video Luis. This illustrates the issue perfectly. Also notice the clip with the Sony A7 RIII and the Sony zooms. Perfect focus tracking on the zoom and no exposure compensation ramping. If Sony can do it, why can't Fuji? The Fuji image is so good, the colors and tone, the camera is great but shooting video with the XF zooms is a hot mess.
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Possibly because traditionally Fuji has been fairly photo focused up until the XH1 or XT3. They haven't really updated their lenses to match that.
 
For whatever it's worth, Panasonic has several Micro 4/3 zoom lenses with electronically controlled apertures that exhibit similar exposure flickering when zooming. And that's for a mirrorless system that has devoted quite a bit of attention to the video side of things.

The Panasonic 14-140mm and original 12-35mm f/2.8 lens suffered from this issue, although they did eventually fix this problem when they released version II of the 12-35mm lens. And even the Panasonic 14-42mm Power Zoom lens has zoom flicker (and really, what's the point of a power zoom lens if you can't smoothly zoom it without exposure flickering?).

Historically, some of the Canon lenses on Canon bodies also suffered from this issue as described here: http://manwiththe5d.com/aperture-flicker-why-you-should-have-a-manual-aperture-zoom-lens
I'm not sure if that is still the case with more recent lenses and bodies.

Still, it would be nice if there were at least some native Fuji lenses that didn't have this problem. Has anyone tried the 8-16mm or 50-140mm f/2.8 lenses?
 
sgttom said:
Possibly because traditionally Fuji has been fairly photo focused up until the XH1 or XT3. They haven't really updated their lenses to match that.
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But Fuji has made lenses for television and cinema for decades, and these lenses do not show the same issue. Yes they are separate divisions, but not that distant from each other anymore. I'm guessing the MK zooms are not bothered by this exposure change. Maybe they need some MK short zooms with AF motors, and maybe some MK primes with AF to go with them. I assume they could modify current XF lens designs to work as cinema primes with real MF+AF, and release them in m43, XF, E and any other APS/m43 compatible mounts they choose.
 
Yeah I had thought their Cine 18-55 2.9 had AF but it doesn't. Would be nice as its a great lens. Pretty huge though for gimbals.
 
sgttom said:
Possibly because traditionally Fuji has been fairly photo focused up until the XH1 or XT3. They haven't really updated their lenses to match that.
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The newest zoom is the XF16-80mm f/4.0 OIS. The hope was since it was a recently designed new lens, designed in the Fuji XT-3 video era that Fuji would have taken all of their video users into account. But they obviously didn't.
 
sgttom said:
Yeah I had thought their Cine 18-55 2.9 had AF but it doesn't. Would be nice as its a great lens. Pretty huge though for gimbals.
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And manual focus for gimbals for a single operator is an exercise in frustration. I've tried it and my keeper ratio is lower than I would need it to be from slightly OOF shots. Even on a 5" monitor, judging 4K focus is very challenging.
 
You pretty much need to stop down to f/8+. No human can consistently pull focus by him/herself on a gimbal using a larger sensor and shooting fast. I actually started noticing a deep DOF when on a steadicam in a lot of films (of course not always though and that's when you see some really talented people at work).

And I think anyone using a 1DX Mark II or a6300 in 2016 almost fell over when they realized the potential of AF after flying one of these cameras for the first time.
 
NorBro said:
You pretty much need to stop down to f/8+. No human can consistently pull focus by him/herself on a gimbal using a larger sensor and shooting fast. I actually started noticing a deep DOF when on a steadicam in a lot of films (of course not always though and that's when you see some really talented people at work).

And I think anyone using a 1DX Mark II or a6300 in 2016 almost fell over when they realized the potential of AF after flying one of these cameras for the first time.
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Yes, I've tried f/8.0 or even f/10 but it seems as if I am often focusing on a close up talent who is walking away from me or I am walking backwards in front of them, deeper DOF helps but it seems that it's still difficult to judge if anything is in sharp focus in bright daylight with a moving camera and subject.
 
HELP needed: Sorry if this has been covered before but I can’t seem to find the answer to it looks like a silly question. This is regarding the stills photography side of the camera. I noticed that under the image size in the menu I only have an option for M (Medium). There is not a selectable option for large. Does anybody happen to have any insight on why this is happening or how I can change it?
 
ReelWorksMedia said:
HELP needed: Sorry if this has been covered before but I can’t seem to find the answer to it looks like a silly question. This is regarding the stills photography side of the camera. I noticed that under the image size in the menu I only have an option for M (Medium). There is not a selectable option for large. Does anybody happen to have any insight on why this is happening or how I can change it?
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I have the Fuji people here right now at Filmtools.....they said you can select in the image size section, small, medium of large ..and just showed me.....if you want to talk with them here in the next 15 mins, call me 818-845-8066 ext 135

Jim Martin
Filmtools.com
 
ReelWorksMedia said:
HELP needed: Sorry if this has been covered before but I can’t seem to find the answer to it looks like a silly question. This is regarding the stills photography side of the camera. I noticed that under the image size in the menu I only have an option for M (Medium). There is not a selectable option for large. Does anybody happen to have any insight on why this is happening or how I can change it?
Click to expand...

I'm guessing you're either in sports finder mode or have high speed burst / crop selected.
 
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