FS7: FS7 Repair now available for handgrips that slip or jiggle

plasticam

plasticam

DVXuser Sponsor
Hello

A DVX shooter send in his grip last week because the gears started slipping in the grip RELEASE. I found a good fix for this problem and have a repair available that restores full function and is gauranteed to work. The cost is $245 and requires 1 day in the shop here in New Orleans.

Another shooter sent in his grip last week because there was an overall jiggle or play in the grip that was just irritating him. I have a fix for this issue also.

A 2 day Priority box is a good method of shipping which leaves you w/o grip for 5 days at about a $25 round trip cost.
Let me know if you would like to rosette the grip and/or extension arm while it's in for repair.



More info on parts here
https://www.facebook.com/shootingmachine.net/shop?rid=140197686135310&rt=6


Thanks!
 
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This is the problem - an extruded aluminum pin shears off at the substrate

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I replace the broken extrusion with a steel machine pin that restores original function

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All set to go.
 
I literally just got an estimate from Sony for this repair minutes ago, then saw this post! Considering what I just learned Sony wants to charge for the repair, I wish I had waited so I could send it to you.
 
I would do it in a second if I didn't have to pay their $135 diagnostic fee. With shipping, I'm already pushing $200 for nothing.
 
Sorry mate. They should not charge you a "diagnostic" fee to discover the basic weakness in their own design. It took me a couple hours to figure a good fix but only 5 mins to diagnose the glaring flaw!
 
Here are bench photos of the inside of your FS7 grip.

IMG_7132.jpg

On the left is a customers grip in for repair of a slipping RELEASE button. On the right is a defrocked "parts" grip used for diagnostics and testing.

Here is the customers grip just after opening the casing- the spring is off track because the pivot pin has sheered off. This makes the grip RELEASE button unworkable.

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They all sheer at exactly the same place.

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A profile view here of the same area on the dummy grip that still has an intact pivot pin. The "pin" is not a pin but a raised extrusion of the cast aluminum substrate roughly 1/8" thick. This substrate is so thin and of such flimsy metal it does not have the integrity to take the pivot force more than say a few hundred work cycles. The extruded pin is marked in orange sharpie.

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Underneath this extruded "pin" is very little meat.

IMG_7135.jpg


After using the dummy to confirm the area underneath the extruded "pin" was safe of ribbon cables and electronics I drilled the broken area
to make a clean new bore I could fit a real steel pin into. Believe me drilling a plumb level bore into a plastic contoured grip is where art meets engineering ;)

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I turn a pin to dimension on the lathe and then tap the end to accept a 2.5mm bolt.

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This gets seated into the substrate (another touch of black magic) and once it's seated the pin is stronger than the original extrusion because its steel and the base is captured by the matrix rather that being an over extended pinnacle of it.

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Sony braced the top of their "pin" with a plastic socket formed into the underneath of the side casing. This fits over the top of the pin. Hmmm

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To improve this I fashioned a standoff that arrests the top of the pin by sistering a fastener to it's tip.

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Now there is a steel pin anchored in the 1/8th inch aluminum substrate so it cannot break and it's bolted on top not just floating around in a plastic cap.

It's a good fix and i warranty it for 2 years.
 
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Mine just slipped yesterday at a job. I looked underneath and sure enough that is the problem. But mine seems worst. A small piece of the plate broke off near the pin. Is that still fixable? Thanks
 
Awesome. Will be in touch after this weekend via PM. I'll ship it after this weekend event.
 
If you are offering this as a professional service ok, you obviously know what you are doing altho I disagree with your methods as way overkill. but pls dont suggest this as DIY. This is not something people can realistically do w/o machine tools and experience.

This is demanding machine work where any mistake basically ruins the grip. If you follow a safe path it is solid safe repair job, but dis-assembling the entire grip and machining out the screws is not only IMHO the wrong approach, it's not for people to attempt without shop tools.
 
Also the way you fix this gets you get back to status quo ante- the way sony built it originally- WEAK. a pin sticking up from the thin aluminum substrate.

The objective is actually what Sony figured out in the Mark 2 design. Your M4 stud is limited by the strength of the thin alumium it fastens to. Sony's original pin broke bc it was under engineered for side loads , your stud replaces the pin but still is subject to the same side load.
 
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