FS7: FS7 + Metabones IV or Metabones Ultra EF + Firmware Updates

nsoltz

Veteran
Has anyone with FS7 and either of these Metabones adapters updated both the FS-7 to the 1.01 firmware as well as updated the Metabones with the software updates just posted?

If so, I would be curious whether it has improved performance of the Metabones products.

Thanks

Ned Soltz
 
Yes, I have. But only on my zooms. It's still slow and unwieldy on those. It still has a mind of its own. It still flashes. It was with my L series primes that it struggled the most and I don't have those with me to test.
 
Thanks for that link. I had not yet seen Dan's blog post and it is most informative. And not too encouraging.

Ned
 
I have to say that I have the slow reaction of the Iris here
but the flashing only appears when you're in "green mode"
of the adapter.

I have the Mark II Smart adapter and the old Speedbooster.
All lenses I tested work without flashing Iris, but are cumbersome
to open/close because it's so slow.

Please be aware that the Metabones adapters have 2 modes!
Green mode isn't meant for video whereas advanced mode
is the one to go with for me...

More info here: http://www.metabones.com/article/of/green-power-save-mode
 
What about Mark III will that work with FS7?

Unfortunately despite the free adapters Sony is oferring, the convoluted rebate method means you can't use your EF lenses for at least 3 weeks after getting your camera . I'll have to buy a Mark II anyway.
 
Does anyone have experience using the Mark II with this camera? Seems like a really dumb choice to give away. Sort of like, "We'll give you a free walkman."
 
I have to say that I have the slow reaction of the Iris here
but the flashing only appears when you're in "green mode"
of the adapter.

I have the Mark II Smart adapter and the old Speedbooster.
All lenses I tested work without flashing Iris, but are cumbersome
to open/close because it's so slow.

Please be aware that the Metabones adapters have 2 modes!
Green mode isn't meant for video whereas advanced mode
is the one to go with for me...

More info here: http://www.metabones.com/article/of/green-power-save-mode


Problem is the Metabones doc does not specify which procedure is for which mode.

I have a rental EF to E Mk IV and no manual. Anbody know of a better doc or something that tells me which button is which? Is the round button the DOF preview on the adapter?

Metabones seriously needs to have better info online.

Thanks,
Robert
 
Problem is the Metabones doc does not specify which procedure is for which mode.

I have a rental EF to E Mk IV and no manual. Anbody know of a better doc or something that tells me which button is which? Is the round button the DOF preview on the adapter?

Metabones seriously needs to have better info online.

Thanks,
Robert


Got the Advanced mode working. One can tell by no flashing and the Iris ring is slower. Still usable with the 24-105/F4L.

Still would like a diagram. What does the switch do?

Y'all take care,
Robert
 
There's only 1 button on every adapter.
It's the above described "full open" button that you'll
also need for changing to "adavanced mode".
This mode also brings the focus distance to your
display which is very nice but doesn't work with lenses
more than 10y old and some 3rd party lenses...
 
This is sort-of related. But I thought I'd share it here anyway.

I tried the Commlite EF-NEX adapter on an A7S and it works flawlessly. Up until now, I had been using a Metabones mk.IV, which had the flashing iris issue on the A7S. The build quality is not nearly as nice, but if iris flashing is a big deal, these mounts are pretty cheap (~$100 from Amazon, less from eBay).

My FS7 is arriving Monday. I'll test it again about then.
 
I have never had the "iris flashing" issue.
Just switch over to advanced mode...

There's still the issue of the iris dial on the camera being not responsive enough.
I don't think this will be solved with a firmware update of the adapter only.
My Sony SEL18-200 behaves very similar without any adapter.
Some lenses (i.e. Canon 17-55/2,8) don't have a problem at all, most of the
lenses work but are quirky to operate via the iris dial.

Let's just wait for the next firmware of the FS7...
 
I have never had the "iris flashing" issue.
Just switch over to advanced mode...

There's still the issue of the iris dial on the camera being not responsive enough.
I don't think this will be solved with a firmware update of the adapter only.
My Sony SEL18-200 behaves very similar without any adapter.
Some lenses (i.e. Canon 17-55/2,8) don't have a problem at all, most of the
lenses work but are quirky to operate via the iris dial.

Let's just wait for the next firmware of the FS7...


I boot the cam and it has reverted to Green mode. Somebody said you can make it stay in advanced. Anybody know how to do that?

Thanks,
Robert
 
You can't do that with the old firmware of the MKIIs (which is 16 in most cases).
You need at least version 24 to make advanced mode standard.

FYI:
When I use my MKII, you don't need to shut the camera off and on again, if you forgot
to do it. You can just release the lens a little bit and lock it again whilst the button on the
adapter is being pushed. Sounds weird, but sometimes works better than shutting the
camera off and on again...

If you want firmware 24 or better, you need to send the adapter to Hong-Kong...

Guys, read the Metabones manual! http://www.metabones.com/article/of/green-power-save-mode
 
You can't do that with the old firmware of the MKIIs (which is 16 in most cases).
You need at least version 24 to make advanced mode standard.

FYI:
When I use my MKII, you don't need to shut the camera off and on again, if you forgot
to do it. You can just release the lens a little bit and lock it again whilst the button on the
adapter is being pushed. Sounds weird, but sometimes works better than shutting the
camera off and on again...

If you want firmware 24 or better, you need to send the adapter to Hong-Kong...

Guys, read the Metabones manual! http://www.metabones.com/article/of/green-power-save-mode


Sorry, I should have mentioned I am on a IV that I rented with the very nice 24-105/F4L until my F mount Ultra is delivered.

I have read the Metabones doc and believe that it lacks specificity. For instance, there is nothing about the fact that the adapter does not keep the advanced setting after powering off. I would also expect a labeled picture or diagram.

Also, to answer someone, there is an oval shape next to the switch which could be perceived as a button. Buttons are not always round.

Never did see a reply as to what the switch does. Anybody want to clue me in?

Hope y'all doin' well,
Robert
 
There's only 1 button on every adapter.
It's the above described "full open" button...

Full open means it opens the Iris to the biggest aperture.

Yeah, things can be easier, but it's okay anyway as there was
a constant firmware development.

You can always contact the people at Metabones. They have been
very responsive, when I asked...
 
Maybe Sony can address the slow iris wheel the way that some have addressed short focus throw on lenses- just make the dial a larger circumference!

It's a shame that the dial is not spring-loaded so that it operates more like the zoom toggle. The further you press the dial the faster the iris change. That would eliminated any need for rotating the dial multiple times. More of a push-forward / pull-back operation. No dial spinning. I can't help but feel that this design is a result of the designers having a background in cameras for still photography where it didn't matter if iris changes were stepped and shooters mostly used AE. They still don't seem to appreciate how vital smooth iris changes are to video shooting.

It would be interesting if someone could hack the camera or even re-wire the grip so that the zoom toggle controlled the iris. I'd give up the servo zoom for that ability.

I am rapidly concluding that short of a manual adapter like the one for Nikons there is NO system that is going to offer smooth, incremental iris changes on EF or Sony glass that are to my satisfaction. It appears that electronic iris control will always be steppy and lacking a feathery ability. I am even doubting that the iris control ring on the FE 28-135 will be perfectly smooth. Although, that said, I was happy with the iris control on the lens that came with the Ex3. Was that electronic iris control or mechanical on that lens? Wait...I have an Ex3 sitting here about 10ft from me. <examining> Okay, mechanical iris. No wonder I like it. Is there a metabones adapter that will allow me to use the Ex3 lens on the Fs7? A Metabones 1/2" CMOS chip mount to Sony E-mount, possibly? ( j/k)
 
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I am rapidly concluding that short of a manual adapter like the one for Nikons there is NO system that is going to offer smooth, incremental iris changes on EF or Sony glass that are to my satisfaction.
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For you folks I hope that is not true.

I got my Ultra F to E so I am set. Back to 1973 when I did everything manual on my Mamiya Sekor 35mm SLR. But the FS7 does have some type of video AGC I think.

Actually, I shoot my HPX300a manually although it does offer Auto Iris and I have used that occasionally. The ENG lens on that does have a zoom rocker. I also shoot manual except for auto ISO sometimes with my D800.

Older guy so I cringe when I see folks asking about auto focus for video.

Y'all have a good something,
Robert
 
I am rapidly concluding that short of a manual adapter like the one for Nikons there is NO system that is going to offer smooth, incremental iris changes on EF or Sony glass that are to my satisfaction. It appears that electronic iris control will always be steppy and lacking a feathery ability. I am even doubting that the iris control ring on the FE 28-135 will be perfectly smooth. ( j/k)

I'm guessing the 28-135 will be like the EX-1 , but I am afraid you are right that any non- Nikon adapter will be steppy. And no one bothers to make a Nikon adapter that will carry power for the Image Stabilization. So you just can't get IS and a smooth iris - pick your poison. Hopefully the 28-135 will solve that and maybe they will come out with a similar 18-105 (which is what that lens should have been.)
 
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