FS7: FS7 Light Kit Survey!

Some people make it sound like it's either/or. I use the BBS Area 48 w/softbox and a pair of dedo 150s all the time. At the corporate level, I doubt many people are showing up with a tungsten-only kit these days. In spit of their shortcomings, some fair, some made up, they're there for ease of control, and to work together with LEDs. The cool-down times aren't really a deal breaker. The first thing you do is turn the light off then by the time you've wrapped everything else they're cool enough. The "5 minutes with a CEO scenario/room" scenario is extreme, but in that case you're clearly not going to use hot lights. I can see how in California, the land of the lawsuit, they're cracking down on the non-battery/hot lights - it's interesting stuff. Carrying and "messing around" with gels really is a non-issue in my books. Attaching a pre-cut gel, to barn doors takes less than 30 seconds, the gel management is the only thing you need to be on top of. I wouldn't lose sleep over anyone mocking equipment choices either.

Anyway, it's great hearing about people's current set ups. I think the S-60, while a premium studio option, is too bulky for small production field use. Rafael, do you have a separate hard case for it? Do you wish you had the S-30 sometimes? If it was me, I'd get the smallest case possible for just the light and keep the ballast completely separate.
 
rob norton said:
Anyway, it's great hearing about people's current set ups. I think the S-60, while a premium studio option, is too bulky for small production field use. Rafael, do you have a separate hard case for it? Do you wish you had the S-30 sometimes? If it was me, I'd get the smallest case possible for just the light and keep the ballast completely separate.
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I don't think I'm the best person to ask, since I'm quite used to heavy equipment...so my sensitivity might just be out of proportion...haha.

I do have the hard case for it. I usually leave the ballast on the floor, and boom the S60 with the chimera shallow softbox/eggcrate. Again, not the lightest, but such a powerful rig with the softbox and the boom.

I'd definitely like the S60 to be lighter, but I chose it because power and versatility were more important to me at the time. Before I got the S60, I used the S30 for a few gigs. Lighter, but again, I wanted the power. So for me, the Tungsten 1K fresnel is essentially my S30. With barndoors, diffusion and gel, it is around the output, size and weight of an S30.

When I don't need the power of the S60, I would like to transition to the Litemats. They aren't as powerful as the skypanel, but when power isn't necessary, I'll definitely take the lighter and smaller form factor or the Litemats. But that's when they release the RGB version.

My ideal smallish light kit for Indy drama is
-Hive 1k
-Skypanel S60
-Source 4 LED
-Litemat 4 & 2
-Tungsten 1k fresnel
-a few voyager tubes.
-Literibbon kit
 
A note on softboxes.. I wonder if they are hard to find because..

-simply why not use a 4.4 frame with diff gel. If you can fit one in ones motor they are so much faster than setting up a softbox and pack up neater.

-the wide variance of panels makes it not too cost effective to make stuff for a specific fixture

Personally I have a 3.3 frame (DIY) if making again Id go for 42' in square to work with standard gel roll

S
 
morgan_moore said:
A note on softboxes.. I wonder if they are hard to find because..

-simply why not use a 4.4 frame with diff gel. If you can fit one in ones motor they are so much faster than setting up a softbox and pack up neater.

-the wide variance of panels makes it not too cost effective to make stuff for a specific fixture

Personally I have a 3.3 frame (DIY) if making again Id go for 42' in square to work with standard gel roll

S
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I guess frames are a pain to protect, not ideal if going on top of lots of other oddly shaped cases etc. Just like you I've got a small van and have 2 sets of frames. You get used to them so fast! The soft box already in the bag/case can be the difference between not needing the extra set of hands so you can take everything in one go (even though they could go on the same stand as the light).

The big plus for the softbox is ease of attaching a grid. I guess they make grids for 6x6s etc. but I'm yet to see one in the wild?

Side note: DOP choice must be making an absolute killing...
 
rob norton said:
I guess frames are a pain to protect, not ideal if going on top of lots of other oddly shaped cases etc. Just like you I've got a small van and have 2 sets of frames. You get used to them so fast! The soft box already in the bag/case can be the difference between not needing the extra set of hands so you can take everything in one go (even though they could go on the same stand as the light).

The big plus for the softbox is ease of attaching a grid. I guess they make grids for 6x6s etc. but I'm yet to see one in the wild?

Side note: DOP choice must be making an absolute killing...
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Morgan.. I think there are more soft box,s around now than ever.. before it was only Chimera.. .. DOP choice are very good ..I have two of the now.. .. with snap grids.. I also used to use a diff frame.. but they are relatively .. more a of a hassle to set up .. firstly they of course need their own stand.. sandbag.. arm/boom.. and clamps..attachment for the arm etc way more stuff to cart around .. the snap bags have their own soft case.. but really they are alot faster and easier to set up than a frame.. and take up less space.. they "snap" out.. throw them on.. (a bit of a fiddle till you get used to them).. advantage of different diff level front panels.. internal baffle on the big one.. bung with the grid.. and your ready.. alot quicker and easier than a frame.stand.. clamps.. yes they do make snap girds for 6x6.. and even bigger I believe.. check out their website.. .. horses for courses.. if your in a studio and you want to not make it look too easy in front of clients.. and you have a lighting crew.. sure get all the C stands out.. big frames.. ponce around ..and look concerned and serious .. :).. but for the corps and docs where it has to look good but also you get the next shoot for being fast.. soft box has to be the way to go.. rather than frames..
 
For corporate A/B roll shoots, I usually pack

2 Diva 401s in rolling flight case
2 Dracast Bi-color panels (Astras to my eye don't look any better and seem to break more often)
1 Arri 300
1 RGBA LED bar (I know it's odd, but has saved my butt when the options were four different beige walls
1 cheap 2x1 flexible LED mat from Neewer I think

Personally I like the collapsible flag kits over proper frames or flags now. My biggest is 24x36 but just ordered a 48x48 kit for when I'm traveling.

If I have a PA or grip I usually add a 1.2k and 200w HMI PAR. But dragging ballasts around myself isn't fun.
 
Sam,

AKAIK gel & diffusion comes in 48" wide rolls, not 42". That said I am seeing a lot more 42" open frames, & floppy flags, though mostly on smaller grip trucks. If anyone is looking for these they are available from Modern Studio Equipment.

I regularly use frames, but almost always end up putting up floppy flags to kill the spill, which can quickly lead to a forest of stands, so often opt for softboxes, sometimes swapping it's diffusion fabric for gel.
 
rob norton said:
Thanks! How are you booming the S60? How do you mostly use the source 4 LED?
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I'm using aMatthews junior boom on a steel combo stand. I'll usually add a few sandbags on the counter side of the boom, since the S60 is pretty heavy.

I use the Source 4 LED to throw patterns, or hard lines. I will also, from time to time, use it as a kicker or hair light. I have not yet used it as a key...but that's largely because I shoot drama mostly.

I use a softbox because the chimera shallow soft box gives me a 4x3' source, and controls spill, with a low profile and does not need a stand. I have found the softbox to be much easier to set up, considering that with frame diffusion, I'd often find myself controlling spill. But I also use frames such as 4x4, and 8x8. I am a big fan of using photography equipment on set. Softboxes can be great when working in tight spaces...which is when you need as much space as possible, and control light spill.
 
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ProfessorU said:
Personally I like the collapsible flag kits over proper frames or flags now. My biggest is 24x36 but just ordered a 48x48 kit for when I'm traveling.
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What 4x4' kit did you buy? I have an Advantage Grip 48" E-Z Travel Kit with three frames, but even though collapsible they're not that air travel friendly. Also have Chimera 2x2' 4x4', & 6x6', kits, which are more travel friendly, but I think of those more as frames than traditional flags.

https://youtu.be/Rk4Ebyiy_PQ

adez4848sk.jpg
 
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morgan_moore said:
For fast I just tape a bit of diff gel onto the front of my 1.1

S
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But then you are not making it a softer light..just weaker.. your source size remains the same.. 1X1.. softness of a light is size of source relative to the subject.. thats all a soft box or diff frame is doing.. making the light " bigger " relative to what you are shooting.. provided you are filling the frame/front of box well.. .. just putting diff gel directly onto a light like that will not soften your shadows.. although it would help to get rid of multiple shadows on some lights..
 
Donny 123 said:
But then you are not making it a softer light..just weaker.. your source size remains the same.. 1X1.. softness of a light is size of source relative to the subject.. thats all a soft box or diff frame is doing.. making the light " bigger " relative to what you are shooting.. provided you are filling the frame/front of box well.. .. just putting diff gel directly onto a light like that will not soften your shadows.. although it would help to get rid of multiple shadows on some lights..
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Donny, I'm sure Sam knows the whole size of light thing.

Adding diffusion to barn doors at their widest, with as big a curve as will allow, substantially increases the diffusion area being lit. Without taking into consideration the work a baffle does for double diffusion/extra softening, when done with the barn doors on an Arri 750 for example, you can actually get pretty close in size to the smaller Chimera soft boxes. It's why barn doors on LEDs come in very handy :)
 
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rob norton said:
Donny, I'm sure Sam knows the whole size of light thing.

Adding diffusion to barn doors at their widest, with as big a curve as will allow, substantially increases the diffusion area being lit. Without taking into consideration the work a baffle does for double diffusion/extra softening, when done with the barn doors on an Arri 750 for example, you can actually get pretty close in size to the smaller Chimera soft boxes. It's why barn doors on LEDs come in very handy :)
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Sure putting diff on barn doors can help a bit..but Sam seemed to saying putting gel directly onto the from of the 1x1 .. 1x1 optional barn doors are pretty small ,adding diff gel to the front of them is only a very small increase in size.. most LED,s dont actually come with barn doors ,and Ive rarely seen them on LED,s. because you get multiple shadows off the doors themselves .. .. I would say you would be needing pretty big barn doors/ fixture.. to make much different if your going to peg diff onto them.to increase the source size... better to use a soft box in the first place..with grids ..?
 
abreu-canedo said:
Nice to see what folks are using, nowadays.

My kit for one-man-band, or skeleton crew:
-Arri Skypanel S60 (heavy, but powerful and versatile at over 500w) with chimera soft-box
-Source 4 LED V.2 w/ gobo kit (not the most powerful, but very handy)
-Tungsten 1k fresnel (can be gelled and diffused with still enough output)
-Two C-stands
-1 Aluminum combo stand
-1 Steel Combo stand
-1 Junior boom
-4 pop-out rag kits 4x3ish
-Misc gel rolls

I can carry all of this, plus two tripods, two cameras & batteries, AC kit, lenses and small grip kit in a RocknRoller R18 cart with the stand-bag attached...but my SUV is likely a bit larger than the OPs Subaru?

I am waiting for the LiteMats to release their new RGB versions, which I will add to this kit when available (likely a 4 and a 2).

When the job requires, I get a Hive 1k, or an M18...but then I'd likely be able to rent a grip truck.
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The Skypanel is a great light! I'm the OP, and I drive a Mazda CX9! Love it! :)
 
Yep chaps I know about source sizes and also how getting a source close makes it bigger and also risks hotspots due to the inverse square law.

I choose..
Panel and baggy clipped diff. Mainly to kill multiple shadows and make the source nicer for the talent
Or
Panel behind 3.3 frame with gel
Or
2 panels behind 6.4 frame lastolight
Or
Thinking about buying 8.8 frame

My 3.3 frame has a slot in the side of my van the 6.4 is clamped to the roof so neither need building

The 8.8 would need building.

Maybe I'm not a fan of softbixes as one the size of my 6.4 would be a beast.

-

Obviously I choose the diffener tool for speed and space.
 
I also have a 4.4 poly.
The lasto or the 8.8 can also sun swat
I guess the constant repurposing is another argument against softbixes.

Of course I understand that if you do the same thing every day they can be the thing
 
Bern Caughey said:
What 4x4' kit did you buy? I have an Advantage Grip 48" E-Z Travel Kit with the three frames, but even though collapsible they're not that air travel friendly. Also have Chimera 2x2' 4x4', & 6x6', kits, which are more travel friendly, but I think of those more as frames than traditional flags.

https://youtu.be/Rk4Ebyiy_PQ

View attachment 125568
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I've just replaced my California Sunbouce kits with Latolite Skylite Rapid as they will be easier to travel with.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_s...=electronics&field-keywords=lastolite+skylite
 
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