FS7: FS7 at 8500 feet - some field notes

bengiles

Well-known member
Just returned from a successful shoot in the Himalayas, the second visit to film a doc we're producing out there.

1) The biggest issue I had, one that actually prevented me from capturing a few key moments and therefore a mission-critical issue, was aperture control of both Canon L lenses and the Sony G 18-105/f4. I experienced completely random responses to the turning of both the handgrip dial and the on-camera dial - including a confused response that meant sometimes it would open up when I turned the dial one way and sometimes the opposite. It also would occasionally lose track of the aperture value and sometimes displayed f-stop numbers that didn't exist.

I know the problem of electronic aperture control has been mentioned many times before, but I wanted to reiterate, in case anyone from Sony can be arsed to read this, that it's a significant problem - including on their own E-mount lens, the 18-105. If they can sort it out, it's actually a very nice lens to work with and combines a useful wide end with enough reach for most of my actuality shooting.

For the record, I was using a Commlite adapter on the Canon L lenses (70-200/2.8II and 100-400) - although previous tests with a Metabones adapter behaved the same as the Commlite. I can accept that third party stuff might have issues, but a native Sony E-mount lens should not have these issues as well. Ideally, I want Sony to either fix this ASAP or come clean and admit that this laggy random response can't be resolved and we need to use manual aperture lenses, at the expense of losing IS.

2) One thing to watch out for when using external V-Lock batts (or any external batts): If voltage drops to the point that the camera dies, check your clip metadata after bunging a new battery on. I was being miserly with power, so it happened to me twice. All clips were intact, but I noticed the clip title numbering went back randomly to an earlier number, meaning I had replicated clip names/numbers. Not a huge problem, but can make data wrangling afterwards a PITA. Solution - after changing the battery, click on the thumbnails button and make a note of the last recorded clip number. Then go into the clip naming menu and set your next clip to pick up contiguously.

3) Doug Jensen, if you're reading this - thank you. Your online course came out just in time for me to watch it, literally in the last moments before boarding the plane. There were some nuggets in there that made a huge difference to the way I used the camera. And a big confidence boost too. Many thanks - I highly recommend it to others who are new to the FS7.

4) The Tilta V-lock mount performed flawlessly and proved very tough. I actually ended up sitting the camera on my shoulder between the camera pad and the Tilta battery plate. Not the most comfortable solution, but it ended up balancing reasonably well that way. My neoprene camera strap did padding duties.

5) Get some extra ND - in sub-tropical sunlight, I was shut down to f32, with the on-board ND at 1/64 and a 0.9 ND grad on there to calm down the sky, and I was still over-exposed (zebra set at 60%, SLog2 Cine EI.) I think I just got away with it, but will definitely be getting a couple more 4x4 ND filters.

Matobo Nepal 2 06.jpgMatobo Nepal 2 04.jpgMatobo Nepal 2 03.jpgMatobo Nepal 2 02.jpgMatobo Nepal 2 01.jpg

Ben.
 
It's a Genus Matte Box Basic with adapter rings. Certainly tough enough on the Sony 18-105, which doesn't extend. It was a compromise on weight and gave me a revolving filter stage. Longer-term, I'd like to use rails for added security and ruffty-tufftyness, but need to work out a system that doesn't add too much weight or height to the vanilla FS7.

Ben.
 
Nice spot for a shoot Ben:-)

I had a similar issue with a Canon 35mm f/1.4 lens on a Metabolise Ultra. I switched the cam off, took the adapter off, put it back together and it was fine again.

The new firmware for the Metabones seems to have made a vast improvement with some of my lenses.

The only issue I've had with the Comillite is the crazy flare.

As for ND, yep, getting wide open on a prime can mean an additional 4-5 stops of ND. I use screw-in tiffen filters with a lens hood instead of matte box to keep it light as pos.
 
As for ND, yep, getting wide open on a prime can mean an additional 4-5 stops of ND. I use screw-in tiffen filters with a lens hood instead of matte box to keep it light as pos.

Cheers Liam.

I was experiencing this with everything closed up and maximum ND applied - no wiggle room in this case for any creative use of DOF. I guess that's the trade-off with a 2000 ISO-rated sensor.

Ben.
 
As a starting point, I usually slap a 1.2 or .9 ND on when shooting outside in the sunshine. The internal ND seems pretty good at blocking IR, so it's not a big issue - just another thing to remember.
 
I'm pretty sure it's a commlite issue. We had the same problem with one out of 3 fs7 on a recent shoot. That camera had a commute adaptor and was always way brighter than the others that had metabones ultra. Should at least have been the other way around.
When I checked the actual lens by taking it off, the iris was actually only half closed even if the read out in the camera was f22.
Soo please check the actual lens on the camera by taking it off and look through it to check the iris. The commlite is pretty crap imho. I thought it was good after reading a post over here
 
I'm pretty sure it's a commlite issue. We had the same problem with one out of 3 fs7 on a recent shoot. That camera had a commute adaptor and was always way brighter than the others that had metabones ultra. Should at least have been the other way around.
When I checked the actual lens by taking it off, the iris was actually only half closed even if the read out in the camera was f22.
Soo please check the actual lens on the camera by taking it off and look through it to check the iris. The commlite is pretty crap imho. I thought it was good after reading a post over here

Interesting - thanks for the heads-up. Will check.

Ben.
 
Odd Ive never run out of ND at EI 500-1000 - but most of my lenses are (used) around 4-5.6

Some of my lenses are over four stops faster than f/5.6. Add in a sunny climate and the need for for additional ND become an issue. Admittedly, if I was shooting outside at home today I wouldn't need much given how dull and dark it is.
 
When I checked the actual lens by taking it off, the iris was actually only half closed even if the read out in the camera was f22.
Soo please check the actual lens on the camera by taking it off and look through it to check the iris. The commlite is pretty crap imho. I thought it was good after reading a post over here

The commlite won't make anything brighter as someone claimed earlier as it doesn't have a condenser lens.

What can happen is that the adapter has to have the arm in the adapter that operates the iris on the correct side of the arm that operates the iris in the lens. The lens iris is spring controlled unless it's stuck it will always move back to the beginning position when you take it off the camera.

I'm trying to remember if you have to move the adapter all the way open or all the way closed first when mounting the lens, but if you don't get it on the correct side you have very little or no, iris control.
 
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The commlite won't make anything brighter as someone claimed earlier as it doesn't have a condenser lens.

What can happen is that the adapter has to have the arm in the adapter that operates the iris on the correct side of the arm that operates the iris in the lens. The lens iris is spring controlled unless it's stuck it will always move back to the beginning position when you take it off the camera.

I'm trying to remember if you have to move the adapter all the way open or all the way closed first when mounting the lens, but if you don't get it on the correct side you have very little or no, iris control.

I'm wondering if you've got the wrong end of the stick, talking about mechanical iris levers etc. My interpretation of what Yoak was saying is that the Commlite might be telling the FS7 that the electronically controlled aperture on the Canon lens is x, when in fact it's y - leading to the operator thinking the lens is fully closed at f32, when it's actually several stops open from there.

Have I got that right?

Ben.
 
I'm wondering if you've got the wrong end of the stick, talking about mechanical iris levers etc. My interpretation of what Yoak was saying is that the Commlite might be telling the FS7 that the electronically controlled aperture on the Canon lens is x, when in fact it's y - leading to the operator thinking the lens is fully closed at f32, when it's actually several stops open from there.

Have I got that right?

Ben.

Yes, that's what seems to happen. Testing it right now
 
Taken the lens on and off 6 times, it only happend once that we couldn't close it although it said f22. Canon 24-105
 
I'm wondering if you've got the wrong end of the stick, talking about mechanical iris levers etc. My interpretation of what Yoak was saying is that the Commlite might be telling the FS7 that the electronically controlled aperture on the Canon lens is x, when in fact it's y - leading to the operator thinking the lens is fully closed at f32, when it's actually several stops open from there.

Have I got that right?

Ben.

I was thinking wrongly. I apologise. I was remembering something that happened to me once and didn't think it through as I've been using all manual lenses for so long.
 
I was thinking wrongly. I apologise. I was remembering something that happened to me once and didn't think it through as I've been using all manual lenses for so long.

No worries. Yoak's onto something here. I've just tried the 70-200/2.8II on there and it "forgot" where f32 was, a couple of times. A (long) spin open to 2.8 and back again found it again.

So, this would suggest that fellow Commlite users should be wary of checking the lens really is stopped down.

On another note, I just tried the Sony G 18-135 on an A7S at a local camera shop today. The aperture works like a charm - no lag, just as quick and responsive as Canon L lenses on a C300 or 5DIII - so there's hope that a FW update might fix it on the FS7.

But just to sense-check, have I missed a menu setting buried away somewhere that allows for less granular aperture increments on native Sony lenses?

Ben.
 
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