FS100's ability to capture that "cinematic" look

3. Color Correction: Learn to use secondaries so you can adjust different elements of the scene independently. That way you can adjust skin tones independently from the rest of the scene. As a final step, raise the blacks a little bit across the entire piece. It'll do wonders for a quick and dirty film look.

Good luck!

What do you mean by "secondaries"? I've never heard that term before.
 
The camera is really the LAST link in a long production value chain.
Quoted for truth.

"Cinematic" as most people know it is nothing more than motivated lighting & good composition.
Hand a talented DP any camera you feel like giving them and you will get the look you want. By
explaining the shots motivation/feeling. The DP will translate that concept to an actual visual.
And express mood and tone with composition and lighting.

I've shot video with a multitude of camera's from about all of the Canon DSLR's to the AF100 and
now the FS100. My lighting kit currently is the creative of the cinematic look.
 
The camera is really the LAST link in a long production value chain.
Sort of but not really. When you're shooting film you ask yourself questions like "does his face have enough exposure?" and the organic look just falls into place. When shooting video you ask questions like, "does the lighting make it look like film?" and "why is the light falling off so quickly on his face?" and "how do we get rid of that specular?". You find yourself tweaking lighting for an hour before you shoot the first frame. The type of camera/format we use definitely has a huge impact on how we light.
 
Yep, that´s why many TV shows (series?) are still shot on film. I read an interview with a famous DP (don´t remember who or on what show exactly) and he said, it´s just too expensive to shoot digital because of the complicated lightning, that it consumes too much time in fast paced productions.
 
I'm gonna let you guys in on a little secret. Video look has a lot to do with over exposing skintones. Try as an experiment keeping your skintones around 50 ire as opposed to the "normal" 70 we've been taught for years. Use soft front lights to fill in the darker parts of the picture, and balance the now lower skintones. This way your highlights suddenly get an extra stop of lattitude, and you've artificially created "dynamic" range.

Its called lighting. :)
 
I'm gonna let you guys in on a little secret. Video look has a lot to do with over exposing skintones. Try as an experiment keeping your skintones around 50 ire as opposed to the "normal" 70 we've been taught for years. Use soft front lights to fill in the darker parts of the picture, and balance the now lower skintones. This way your highlights suddenly get an extra stop of lattitude, and you've artificially created "dynamic" range.

Its called lighting. :)

But but...we don't HAVE to light anymore! I read it on the internet!
 
That´s correct. I always keep the zebra setting at 70 and don´t let it appear in the faces, so it´s at 60 or 55. But that´s just an aproximation. It would be a lot easier, if you could dial in zebras below 70.
Maybe a lightmeter would help for consistent correct exposures?
BTW: When shooting run´n´gun stuff with the Kitlens I set Exposure compensation to -0,7. Works great!
 
I'm gonna let you guys in on a little secret. Video look has a lot to do with over exposing skintones. Try as an experiment keeping your skintones around 50 ire as opposed to the "normal" 70 we've been taught for years. Use soft front lights to fill in the darker parts of the picture, and balance the now lower skintones. This way your highlights suddenly get an extra stop of lattitude, and you've artificially created "dynamic" range.

Its called lighting. :)

I LOVE it! I actually cannot say I knew this for certain so thanks for the tip. I do 'tend' towards doing this already as the FS-100 is just so clean,
that I tend to 'protect' the highlights and underexpose things a little. There really is almost no noise in the blacks, so not hard to bring them
up if needed.....however if you overexpose, you can't fix the 'blown out' area. It is also why even on 'landscape' shots, I set my zebras at 95%
instead of 100%.
 
I'm gonna let you guys in on a little secret. Video look has a lot to do with over exposing skintones. Try as an experiment keeping your skintones around 50 ire as opposed to the "normal" 70 we've been taught for years. Use soft front lights to fill in the darker parts of the picture, and balance the now lower skintones. This way your highlights suddenly get an extra stop of lattitude, and you've artificially created "dynamic" range. Its called lighting. :)
Totally true! Timur, as an F3 owner with S-log, don't you think the dynamic range abilities, and log gammas couples with correct grading are a big part of that as well? I mean there is certainly something special with that LoG gamma. I seem to think that even with an 8 bit rec709 camera the "cinematic" look is more about dynamic range like Timur said. It's about a delicate balance in abilites in lighting, filters, camera exposures/latitude/profiles, and finally grading. I never have seen images come from any digital camera that looked filmic without all of these things. Like the folks who buy a RED cam and think it's a magic box that produces digital film. All of those things to create the dynamic range and proper grading I mentioned is still necessary. So much RED footage out there on Vimeo looks like super sharp video to me. It makes me think that the RED isn't all it's cracked up to be...and then you see Fincher's films and see a totally different image because every step...from lighting to exposures to lenses to filters to grading...etc etc...are done by top professionals. The camera is still the same one that the kid on Vimeo had.
 
Definitely well put both of you. I have worked on stuff in the past shot on an HMC150 that looked like film based on camera settings, the way the set was set up, how it was lit, the lights and screens that were used, as well as even down to the clothing the actors were given to wear ect...
I must add though that there was some time involved in accomplishing these tasks, but thats how it was done
 
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I'm gonna let you guys in on a little secret. Video look has a lot to do with over exposing skintones. Try as an experiment keeping your skintones around 50 ire as opposed to the "normal" 70 we've been taught for years. Use soft front lights to fill in the darker parts of the picture, and balance the now lower skintones. This way your highlights suddenly get an extra stop of lattitude, and you've artificially created "dynamic" range.

Its called lighting. :)

Nailed it Timur. I have been going over that in my mind for a while now and think that a lot of video shot for fictional narrative work is overexposed.

Putting the skintones at IRE 50 makes sense. For consitancy, where would you put 18% grey, a stop under?
 
I also can´t get rid of the videoish look. It´s just too clean, too digital, altough I usually add some grain.
Here´s an example. Intro for our New Year´s Eve Video.
http://vimeo.com/36501115

Lighted with 3 Arri fresnels und gels.
I really don´t know enough about grading....


A table lamp behind the actor with a soft key would work wonders. When I shoot indoors I take lots of CFL globes and a few hand held CFL work lights that I can throw under furniture. The space just looks really flat which makes the image flat. As mentioned by others DOF is also an issue. I lit a living room for a short with a table lamp and an LED flood and it looked great. The colour of the walls can also make a huge difference (you can't always repaint your mates apartment however) Grading helps but don't expect miracles. If the shot looks like video on the LCD you have more work to do with the lighting and the art direction.
 
Agreed on all points. Lighting, composition and grading are certainly going to affect your 'look' the most. At the same time, I do think there is something inherently kind of off and un-'cinematic' about the FS100's motion rendering. I'm a proud owner, but sometimes the motion just looks kind of weird. A lot of videos posted on here look great and the still grabs certainly look cinematic, but they still –especially the European ones (maybe it's the 25p/60hz discrepancy)– look kind of odd, motion wise.
 
At the same time, I do think there is something inherently kind of off and un-'cinematic' about the FS100's motion rendering.
I totally agree here. Even my DSLRs don't have that jerky motion. I just saw a clip that had a dolly shot and the stuff passing by the camera in the foreground as it tracked made the clip almost unbearable to watch. Mostly it's not that bad...but yeah, I know what you mean Kyle. Ive been meaning to drop Twixtor onto some test clips to see if it can't smooth things out. But what a hassle even if it works. After 8 months of using the cam, this is the most unpleasing aspect IMO. I have been contemplating upgrading to the f3...but mostly because the log and 10 bits fit my grading style.
 
I do think there is something inherently kind of off and un-'cinematic' about the FS100's motion rendering.

This is what I've been saying for years. The most important part of why DSLRs took off in the first place, imo, was the distinct motion rendering which totally changed the feel of what was captured. Ever seen a movie on a 120hz display and how "cheesy" it looks? Same great lighting, composition and camera work... but it looks almost un-watchable; this is solely due to the way the motion has been slightly distorted. As far as creating or replicating characteristics of film stock, DLSRs are still the best bet to mimic what many people have a hard time pinpointing as the "filmic" look.

By all counts, the FS100 is a superior camera in every way conceivable, and to compare it against any DSLR might seem silly. However, for whatever reason the unique way motion is rendered in Panasonic and Canon DLSRs specifically, create this odd magical look that many people seek. It may only be one part in a very long pedigree for creating something that appears cinematic, but don't fool yourself, it is absolutely key.
 
"I have been contemplating upgrading to the f3...but mostly because the log and 10 bits fit my grading style." >>

I haven't studied the F3 very much... is the motion from that cam better than the FS100?
 
Canon DSLR'S even the C300 some how looks like film. Canon has a unique way of processing video and it comes out looking as close to film as possible IMO, Not even RED looks like film to me. Go Canon!
This is what I've been saying for years. The most important part of why DSLRs took off in the first place, imo, was the distinct motion rendering which totally changed the feel of what was captured. Ever seen a movie on a 120hz display and how "cheesy" it looks? Same great lighting, composition and camera work... but it looks almost un-watchable; this is solely due to the way the motion has been slightly distorted. As far as creating or replicating characteristics of film stock, DLSRs are still the best bet to mimic what many people have a hard time pinpointing as the "filmic" look.

By all counts, the FS100 is a superior camera in every way conceivable, and to compare it against any DSLR might seem silly. However, for whatever reason the unique way motion is rendered in Panasonic and Canon DLSRs specifically, create this odd magical look that many people seek. It may only be one part in a very long pedigree for creating something that appears cinematic, but don't fool yourself, it is absolutely key.
 
I really don't feel anything looks like film short of the Alexa.... the F3 and C300 get close to the alexa... but not to film.

RED being a distant 4th.
 
Not to me, Canon's has a uniqueness RED cant even touch, RED to looks so digital it's not even funny looks like the 120hrtz tv's but that is what makes us individuals, we see things different Sony FS100 looks allot like RED footage at times online I mean because of compression. All beautiful in their own rights=)
I really don't feel anything looks like film short of the Alexa.... the F3 and C300 get close to the alexa... but not to film.

RED being a distant 4th.
 
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