From DVX to HVX

T

ToTheBack

Active member
While I'm sure there're some threads around here for this same topic, I wasn't able to find the right one when I was searching about.

Next weekend, I'm gonna be shooting a music video in the Bay Area and will be the first time I've shot with an HVX. My DP's pretty talented but in terms of cameras and such, the most advanced camera I've shot with is a DVX-100B. From the workflow, lighting, learning curve, and all of that, how is shooting an HVX compared to DVX? Harder, same? I'm not sure which way the footage is being captured whether it's P2 or not but how is using it compared to the DVX?
 
1.you need more light
2. its heavier and bulkier
3. it has both tape and P2 (I would use the tape)

other than that the buttons and presets are quite similar. Try to spend some time with it before you shoot!
 
If you decide to use P2, get very familiar with the workflow before you shoot. You will find several threads of agonized DPs who tried to recover in post after somehow corrupting their files.
 
find out how you're storing p2 footage and how much space you will have to record on. like dick said, figure out a workflow and make suere you understand it before you start. if you shoot tape you may as well use the dvx and skip all the hassle.
 
FilmBoy77 said:
find out how you're storing p2 footage and how much space you will have to record on. like dick said, figure out a workflow and make suere you understand it before you start. if you shoot tape you may as well use the dvx and skip all the hassle.
Click to expand...

Unless you want the native widescreen. I shot on tape with the HVX until the larger cards came out. I find the image quality in DV superior to that of the DVX. I'd use the HVX over the DVX in any scenario, I've gotten quite used to the weight, makes for a smoother image in handheld IMO.
 
The big thing that you also have to be overly concerned with when you first start with the HVX is foucus... especially if you are shooting any long lens stuff. You need to get used to either using the focus assist to get it pin point sharp, or get an external monitor. The other major factor is the exposure. There's definitely a sweet spot in the camera and knowing how it resolves the darks and highlights is very important. Don't get to nuculear with your whites and try to avoid murky and blah looking mid-lights. Camera really doesn't do well in the in-between kind of "low light stuff".


The other thing to do is to make sure that you are anal about backing up the media and then double backing it up. The other MAJOR cool factor is being able to watch back what you shot right away. Get used to that.. use it, and enjoy the liberation of a non-linear workflow... Also, I'd advise against deleting in the field unless you are totally sure you won't use it... can and did produce problems when I was a newbie...
 
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