forcing shutter speed ?

B

bang

Active member
as i live in europe and most lights here result in a flicky/banding movie due to the frequency of the lights, i'd like to find a way to fix this.
i know i can point in different direction/lightened areas to force the nikon to a certain shutter speed, and so to avoid the bandings.
but this is really annoying as it can takes sometimes a lot of time to lock AE at the right moment.

so i was wondering if it would be possible to force shutter speed, using for example a light that u could dim and so maybe it would be easier to find the right settings.

as nikon dont have any plan to release a firmware to fix this issue, and as here in europe, we get a lot of those flickering lights, i mean, its everywhere, in the streets, in the houses, everywhere.

i dont have money to buy a canon 7D or 5D, nor a D3..

and i have shutter speed control on my 150$ pocket camera.
this is ridiculous, but ok lets stop whining and find a solution.

Is there a way to force the shutter speed without wasting 5 minutes before beeing able to record ?
 
i know what you mean

i feel stupid walking around the set pointing the camera at random things to find a spot without any lines or noise

im still not sure at what should i point it to find that good spot...it always looks to me as a random spot in the set ...what should i look for?

shadows?

thanks
 
well for my part i start pointing at the most dark area and move the pointer a bit into the light, so i can get a footage not too dark.
also, i set iso maxed to 400 (not sure it change anything), i set my aperture (on old prime lens) to 8 then when i dont see the banding, i press the AE lock button as fast as possible.
and then i open the aperture to 3.5 or 2.8 or less if ur lens is faster.

thats what i've found on this forum, ok it works, but yea really annoying.
now im pretty sure nikon wont release a firmware, we got to work like this or maybe someone with light/Hz/shutter speed knowledge could find a solution.

i didnt read all the article HHL, but it doesnt seems to be a solution for the D90/D5000 problem.
 
HHL said:
So this is how you can force shutter speed (supposedly) on the Pentax KX. I'm only adding it here because the Pentax KX is cheaper than the D90 and apparently has more manual control...(aperture w/out aperture ring?) And supposedly you can force shutter speed? Who knows?

http://wildlifehealth.tennessee.edu/video/k-x.html
Click to expand...


I have the K-x and it works. I'm not sure yet if it does for ISO but you can lock the shutter speed by choosing it in AV or manual mode, then changing to video mode and press AE-L button while the cam switches to Live View.

@HHL, I'll be posting some K-x stuff soon, right now I'm just testing around and it's pretty boring footage :)
 
I have the K-x and it works. I'm not sure yet if it does for ISO but you can lock the shutter speed by choosing it in AV or manual mode, then changing to video mode and press AE-L button while the cam switches to Live View.

@HHL, I'll be posting some K-x stuff soon, right now I'm just testing around and it's pretty boring footage :)
Click to expand...

VERY COOL. I have had my eye on this camera because it is sooo DIRT CHEAP. I thought that it might be a good "indie-multi-cam" setup for under 1K. Interesting. I look forward to seeing footage. As far as boring footy...DON'T I KNOW IT! It's winter here in Utah, and we've had TERRIBLE inversion (like whiteout fog only it hasn't gone away for WEEKS)....so I'm having a hard time getting a chance to shoot anything meaningful. (White background doesn't show any of the appealing looks that I like to see with anamorphics) Thanks for sharing buddy!
 
On live view mode, hold the +/- button, turn the dial to: +0.5 or tweak it till the banding gone (shutter speed changed), and lock it (AE-L).
Click to expand...

On the D90? Or on the Pentax Kx?
 
the trick is for D90/D5000
thing is it doesnt work for manual lenses because u dont have access to the +/- button with those old lenses.
and with DX lens i get a way too bright footage where blanks are washed.
so i guess best is to get a recent prime lens with aperture ring so u can compensate.
but how do i know what lens will work with all/or most parameters ? any D lens ?
 
bang said:
the trick is for D90/D5000
thing is it doesnt work for manual lenses because u dont have access to the +/- button with those old lenses.
and with DX lens i get a way too bright footage where blanks are washed.
so i guess best is to get a recent prime lens with aperture ring so u can compensate.
but how do i know what lens will work with all/or most parameters ? any D lens ?
Click to expand...

The exposure compensation (+/- dial) does work with manual lenses. Make sure you're in "M" mode and AE lock is off when you adjust your exposure compensation dial.

Also, when you're shooting bright outdoors using a DX lens - dial the exp. comp down a couple stops and it will take away the blown out highlights. The Exp Comp dial on the D90 is like a "poor man's" aperature ring when using DX lenses.
 
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maybe it works with the d90 but i tell you it doesnt with my d5000 with an old nikkor mf prime lens with aperture ring.
u have only access to live view when u put the selector on M.
And when i put it on M, pressing the +/- key doesnt do anything.
I dont have access to the electronic aperture using old manual prime lenses
even with the lens kit (18-105 DX ED VR) i have access to the +/- only when i am in A or S or P, but not in M.

thats why i think at least with the d5000, u need other lenses, but im not sure what kind of lens.
as i want to buy another lens it would be great to know

:(
im disappointed
really nikon should give us manual shutter speed for d90 AND D5000
 
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or maybe there is something i miss in the settings ?

also it seems my d5000 only adapt shutter speed, iso when i set the lens kit to auto, is that normal ?
 
Hmmm,
I know the exp comp works on my D90 with manual lenses - not sure about the d5000. When you use the DX lenses you have no advantage to be in manual mode so just use the Exp Comp in Auto mode to get your desired exposure. I always use a ND filter or Poloraizer and dial it down 1-2 stops on bright sunny days when I use my DX lenses or when I shoot wide open (shallow DOF) with my manuals. Its easier to brighten it up a little in post than to fix blown out highlights.
 
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