Focussing during video techniques

[JanvdM]

Wonder to your focussing workflow from YOU and other GH1 users while recording video footage. Leaving auto on is not really going fluent while recording. Most times too nervous very jumpy. So whenever I start shooting a new scene I fix focus with that too little knob left which has 3 positions. AFS, AFC and MF. Keep switching from AFC or AFS to MF while filming. For better blind handling I tied a little tie ribbin around it and have a long remote stick now to turn the knob much better and quick in the desired position, works great. So Now I always auto focus in auto AFS or AFC position press shutter half and switch quick back to MF. So curious how YOU and other GH1 videographers handle this. ... Thanks for your opinions.
BTW working with Olympus M.Zuiko 17mm 1:2,8 great choice, ideal for on Steadicam JR. On my blog some more about this soon.

 

[Psynema]

Wonder to your focussing workflow from YOU and other GH1 users while recording video footage. Leaving auto on is not really going fluent while recording. Most times too nervous very jumpy. So whenever I start shooting a new scene I fix focus with that too little knob left which has 3 positions. AFS, AFC and MF. Keep switching from AFC or AFS to MF while filming. For better blind handling I tied a little tie ribbin around it and have a long remote stick now to turn the knob much better and quick in the desired position, works great. So Now I always auto focus in auto AFS or AFC position press shutter half and switch quick back to MF. So curious how YOU and other GH1 videographers handle this. ... Thanks for your opinions.
BTW working with Olympus M.Zuiko 17mm 1:2,8 great choice, ideal for on Steadicam JR. On my blog some more about this soon.

Set the auto focus to point mode and move the point to one of the upper thirds intersections. Of course use the lock AF button as well. If you're in the studio and have time to set up the shot, obviously use manual, which on the 20mm 1.7 is hard to continuously focus with manually or automatically

 

[Blackout]

Yeah it's a bit strange..... took me a while to understand it too. Use auto focus point, but then you have to lock it, I forgot or couldn't figure out how to lock it a few times and originally I thought afc and afc meant auto focus spot, and auto focus constant, shows the idiot I was with dslrs, so I though if I set it to afs, it would only focus when I half clicked the shutter button, and that if I set it to afc, it would always autofocus on it;'s own. Took me a while to get over being totally frustrated that it was still changing focus when I had it on afs.

Every once in a while I actually read some pages of the manual and that helps.

 

[Ben_B]

I use the focus assist to get critical focus the first time, and if I know I am going to be needing to change focus I will use the viewfinder.

I wish they allowed focus assist while recording.

 

[Psynema]

Yeah it's a bit strange..... took me a while to understand it too. Use auto focus point, but then you have to lock it, I forgot or couldn't figure out how to lock it a few times and originally I thought afc and afc meant auto focus spot, and auto focus constant, shows the idiot I was with dslrs, so I though if I set it to afs, it would only focus when I half clicked the shutter button, and that if I set it to afc, it would always autofocus on it;'s own. Took me a while to get over being totally frustrated that it was still changing focus when I had it on afs.

Every once in a while I actually read some pages of the manual and that helps.

Actually, while you should lock it, once it's on one of the upper thirds intersections, you should notice an improvement, since of course the subject should be there the whole time of course...though it is a PITA switching from left/right head shots.

 

[timbook2]

its a PITA with the pancake 20mm ! I am trying to find a way with a steadicam which is moving a lot and it simply sux here! if the face of the person is not the highest lit point and I walk around the person any of the AF will shift to the background if its got a lot of info in it, blank walls no problem but intricate backgrounds and the face remains out of focus! **ggrrr*

I wish there was a remote focus for the pancake !!

 

[Uncle GroOve]

its a PITA with the pancake 20mm ! I am trying to find a way with a steadicam which is moving a lot and it simply sux here! if the face of the person is not the highest lit point and I walk around the person any of the AF will shift to the background if its got a lot of info in it, blank walls no problem but intricate backgrounds and the face remains out of focus! **ggrrr*

I wish there was a remote focus for the pancake !!

Why don't you use the Face Recognition mode? ...
It's really worth experimenting with all those options. God only knows why Panny had to stuff the cam with so much stuff, but every once in a while you appreciate having that odd function.

My 2 Sfr cents' worth

Paul

 

[JanvdM]

"Fixed Focus" position!

"Fixed Focus" position!

its a PITA with the pancake 20mm ! I am trying to find a way with a steadicam which is moving a lot and it simply sux here! if the face of the person is not the highest lit point and I walk around the person any of the AF will shift to the background if its got a lot of info in it, blank walls no problem but intricate backgrounds and the face remains out of focus! **ggrrr*

I wish there was a remote focus for the pancake !!

Origionally IMHO with a pancake + 17 or 20mm locked in the "Fixed Focus" position (flat8) and enough light, you have the widest depth of field. All is razor sharp. So you will be in focus from very close till the flat 8 position! Ideal for Steadicamming!

 

[Uncle GroOve]

Origionally IMHO with a pancake + 17 or 20mm locked in the "Fixed Focus" position (flat8) and enough light, you have the widest depth of field. All is razor sharp. So you will be in focus from very close till the flat 8 position! Ideal for Steadicamming!

I beg you pardon for my ignorance - what is the "flat 8" position?

Thx

Paul

 

[timbook2]

he means infinite but forgot to think of the DOF when iris is wide open.....

the problem I have with the AF system of panny is: when it detects some busy info in the background like a wall made of rock or other "busy" info like lots of people walking, and light is low , iris is open, it will focus anywhere else but the face in front of you !!

the pancake lens has a great low light capability but a very shallow DOF . If I could turn on AF+MF mode and NOT have to lock AF in order to manually adjust focus I would be fine!

 

[Uncle GroOve]

he means infinite but forgot to think of the DOF when iris is wide open.....

Ahh... gotcha

the problem I have with the AF system of panny is: when it detects some busy info in the background like a wall made of rock or other "busy" info like lots of people walking, and light is low , iris is open, it will focus anywhere else but the face in front of you !!

the pancake lens has a great low light capability but a very shallow DOF . If I could turn on AF+MF mode and NOT have to lock AF in order to manually adjust focus I would be fine!

I'll have to try that out. If I remember correctly one can also determine the size of the AF zone.. it can be made to be pretty small. I think that it is important to avoid the 23-zone algorithm because it tries to keep all that info somehow in focus.

As far as DOF - tough call - if it's too shallow when the lens goes hunting for focus it will be very obvious. IMHO it need to be adjusted to say f5.6-8 in order to preserve clarity. I've found that my Nikon 24 2.8 is very helpful as far as focusing is concerned. At infinity (minus a hair breadth to compensate for the adapter) it is basically focussing at 2 meters (i.e. 6 feet appx). As long as you remember to keep that distance you're fine. And at that point you can extend your DOF via the aperture ring and/or ND filters.

Paul