HPX250: Flat Cinestyle settings for 250?

russc

russc

Active member
Any hint on achieving a look with the HPX250 to get the best flat, good for grading, picture settings? Something akin to the technicolor downloads for the Canons. have shoot coming up with the need to match the different cams as best i can and have them be as ready for color grading as possible. Shooting AVC Intra100 10824p on the 250. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.
 
Cine-D, knee low, master ped about +8 or so, norm1 matrix, should give you a really flat image. If you want super-compressed dynamic range you can put DRS 2 or DRS 3 on there, but I normally avoid those unless absolutely necessary. DRS 1 replaces the knee, so try the knee on low first before using DRS.
 
Barry you Rock. Just saved me a bunch of experimentation. I'm shooting a low buget feature with Eric Roberts in the next couple of weeks and there are a couple of days with a big gun battle with multiple cams.... all different! Pissing me off but ,i have to deal with 7ds ,gh2s , HPX500 and the 250. And I know for sure the 7d with be shooting with the technicolor setting. Obvioulsly, they don't have to match perfectly -it will be at lot of jumpcuts for sure and we really just need coverage, but I wanted to get as close a gradable image as I could.
How about the 500 shooting DVCproHD108024p - same type settings as the 250?

Thanks for your insight- big help and time saver.
Russ
 
The 500's settings are a bit different, and its knee works differently (both in the way it clips, and also in that you can't use the knee in cinelike gammas), and it doesn't have DRS. And I think the master pedestal numbers are different; it's been a long, long time since I've used a 500 ... does it go +100 to -100, or +15 to -15? I don't remember.

Still, on a 500, I'd say if you want the flat cinestyle look, yes use cine-d, yes norm1, but I don't know what to say to set the master ped to, it depends on what range it goes to and where it pegs black. Put on the "marker" spotmeter tool and put the lens cap on, and adjust the master ped until the marker says "0%", then maybe raise it a notch or two from there... might be enough to get you started...
 
That makes perfect sense. Thanks I will play around with the pedestal on the 500. Thanks so much for getting back to me.
 
Barry_Green said:
Cine-D, knee low, master ped about +8 or so, norm1 matrix, should give you a really flat image. If you want super-compressed dynamic range you can put DRS 2 or DRS 3 on there, but I normally avoid those unless absolutely necessary. DRS 1 replaces the knee, so try the knee on low first before using DRS.
Click to expand...

Ok, I am still playing with many settings here and have a simple question. There are many other settings in the scene settings, to get a flat look what should all the other settings be at 0? I know this may sound silly, but I am trying things out as I go. Thanks
 
You're supposed to try them out as you go. That's how you learn what they do.

Zero is a midpoint. If you want it as flat as possible, you'd probably set detail and v-detail and chroma level to -7, and master pedestal to 0.
 
Barry, is the 10 bit 4.2.2 colorspace sufficiently large to record super flat and add color in post? Isnt this something rather for the RAW and 12 bit colorspace?
I know its very difficult with 8 bit 4.2.0 like Canon picture styles and even worse with AVCHD stuff from GH2 and the like.
 
timbook2 said:
Barry, is the 10 bit 4.2.2 colorspace sufficiently large to record super flat and add color in post? Isnt this something rather for the RAW and 12 bit colorspace?
I know its very difficult with 8 bit 4.2.0 like Canon picture styles and even worse with AVCHD stuff from GH2 and the like.
Click to expand...

With 10bits you have MUCH more latitude to push it in post.

10 bits has 1000 levels between blackest black and pure white, whereas 8 bit only has 256.
 
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