Fit to shoot a film?

M

mechjustin

Carbonite Member
I have access to this camera at my work place. I am shooting a short film. I own the DVX100B however was thinking about using the HPX HD camera for my short film. The HPX is stock, I don't want to spend to much money but is there something I could add to the HPX with low budget to make look more like film? Right now we use it for New Cast shoots and has a T.V look to it, granted I can change Recording Formats.

Thanks!~
 
That would be good, but it's not what I asked. :) What settings are you currently using that gives you a look you don't care for?
 
It's not even that, I have yet to use it for filming, just TV promo's and we dont even use HD, I was just wondering if this camera would be good to use for film use, and if so what settings and format is the best for it
 
In the scene files, you'll find various settings:

1) Scorsese
2) Spielberg
3) Tarantino

Also, Barry Green has a chapter in his book on how to hack it to get "Kubrick." Well worth the read.
 
take a look on my site below you can see still from a feature and a short with the camera - nothing video about it
 
The easiest things you can do to get a film look out of the HPX is: use Scene File 5 or 6 (they use Cinematrix and Cinegamma), keep the iris open if you care for shallow depth of field (the shallow depth of field is in the 16mm film range with the 2/3" HPX500, which is already pretty good for a filmic look without any adaptors).
Third, use a HD format in 24p/25p.

If this doesn't give you the film look, then something is totally wrong with your lighting and shooting ;)

Seriously, you can even get a film look with the HVX200 if you just use Scene Files 5 or 6 in SD on MiniDV shooting some landscapes, not even in 25P. The colors alone from the cinematrix setting make it look a lot like cinema in my opinion.
If you can't get a film look with the HPX500, then you can't get one with a Sony F900 neither :)
 
Usually don't need extra ND's, but in full Florida sun a couple of weeks ago, I was shooting ND4 @ F8-F11 (give or take), so, if you need shallow DOF under those conditions, then yes, you'll need more ND. I like using a ND grad (.6) & polarizer for exteriors, especially when there's clouds.
 
I was shooting ND4 @ F8-F11 (give or take), so, if you need shallow DOF under those conditions, then yes, you'll need more ND
Click to expand...

If there's not a lot of movement in your scene (like a talking head type situation) you can also use the shutter to bring down the light. I know... it's not the most beautiful way to do it, but it works if you don't have a mattebox. I wouldn't use this method as soon as there's motion though, it will get a distinctly different look with a higher shutter setting.
 
Well I grew up in Fort Lauderdale. What we did was coat some UV filters with Coppertone. Lay em out in the sun for about 20 minutes and voila! 85n6! Leave em out too long and you get an 812. Do both sides and you have a 85n12.

Bring me that can of Sharpinall!
 
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