Fast shutter and adapter

M

mvdsanden

Member
Hello,

quick questions

Recently been playing with fast shutter speeds on my HVX + LEX setup... noticed you can clearly see the GG moving when using fast shutters... I can't really tell for 1/125, but at 1/250 its noticable pretty much already, and 1/500, 1/1000 is just a nightmare...

Is there a way to use these speeds with the LEX withouth the GG showing up?
 
nope because the LEX is a vibrating adapter go for a sinning adapter like the M2, SGpro or wdr35 if you want to go over 1/250
 
I have said this before, I have gotten my SgPro to 1/500th and my lens down to F22 with my sgpro w/o any sign of grain, I can put it at 1/1000th but I have to keep the lens at around f4 to f8
 
the p went to the penis....
:grin:


Well at least there was a laugh out of this...
 
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Your batteries might be low. At 24fps, I can get 1/500 with my LEX/HVX combo, but that's my limit with fresh batteries. I did own an M2 in the past, an with that I had no limit.
 
Brian@202020 said:
Your batteries might be low. At 24fps, I can get 1/500 with my LEX/HVX combo, but that's my limit with fresh batteries. I did own an M2 in the past, an with that I had no limit.
Click to expand...

Really Brian? Progressive or Interlaced?
When shooting over the weekend, had to turn the adapter off, as the "wobble" was massive at 1/250 and even 1/120 (i think too), 25p.
Got away without seeing grain in a few of the adapter turned off shots though.
 
1/500th on the LEX?

There have been tests done which show that at such a high shutter speed, eevn on fresh batteries the GG pattern will be visible. Perhaps you are not on HDV mode? shooting SD? because on an HD monitor, i can get away with 1/120th, anything higher and my eye can find the GG vibration pattern and distinguish it apart from the normal camera noise.
 
Charles Lowthian said:
Really Brian? Progressive or Interlaced?
Click to expand...

PaPa said:
There have been tests done which show that at such a high shutter speed, eevn on fresh batteries the GG pattern will be visible.
Click to expand...

I did a series of tests myself, f-stop is a far bigger problem than shutter.

Settings: 720 24PN
Lens: 50mm Nikon AF Nikkor f1.4

My findings were:

f5.6 acceptable at 1/60
f4 acceptable at 1/60
f2.8 acceptable at 1/120
f2 acceptable at 1/250
f1.4 acceptable at 1/500

All f-stops changes were on the Nikon lens, the camera iris was always open.

It is even acceptable at 1/1000 in 480i 24P or 24PA at 1.4 on this lens. I hope that helps guys.
 
brian, everything you say is pretty spot on. and it makes sense if you follow the logic. One stop lower = doubling the shutter, since it is half the light.. and so on..

All my lenses are F 2, 2.5 and F8, i have only done hte tests with F2 but i guess my eye is slightly more strict when it comes to seeing what i believe to be the GG which is for me at 1/120th.
 
PaPa said:
brian, everything you say is pretty spot on. and it makes sense if you follow the logic. One stop lower = doubling the shutter, since it is half the light.. and so on.
Click to expand...

With my experience the logic is close, but somehow leans a little more twords the f-stop being a bigger factor. Example: 1/500 at f1.4 looks alittle better than 1/250 at f2. Don't ask me why, but it does.
 
I was referring to the "wobble" you get when shooting at faster shutters, not so much the grain. The "wobble" kills the shot completely :(

Don't you get the "wobble" on your vibrating adapters?
 
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