F35 Internal IF Box

yachacha

Well-known member
I haven't given up on my F35 mini, but more and more issues keep presenting themselves. Most time consuming is lengthening some of the cables. It's also the desire to completely redo the housing vs using part of it modified.

I have also made many discoveries about the camera. You can remove 2 big boards from the "Fat" side of the camera that sends the signals to the docks and the monitor out keeps working. Of course the warning systems go crazy and menus's are uncontrollable, it's interesting what little is needed to keep the monitor out working.

In the meantime, rather quickly I wanted to make F35 without docks that still had the power to output 12-bit. I am in strange situation that I have extra F35 body so I can keep working on F35 mini and use my CCD in this cam.

To me the dock represents the "OLD" F35 System, it was a copy of a modular film system with powerful exspansion capabilities. I have decided to streamline this F35 and say I will never want to use the dock again, the only thing I need is the dual-link 12-bit stream. Once the docks are out, there is extra space to fit the IF box boards inside the back and top lid.

When I originally had this top plate made it didn't extend all the way to the back so I need to make a gap filler obviously. It kind of works out though because I am going to add a vent for the heat generated by the IF Box. I routed the dual link cables to the Genlock and Test Out, although the audio board is plugged in, the SDI is not routed through it, that board is only needed to tell the camera the IF box is attached. If I want audio I have a nice SD Mix Pre I can attach to my 7Q.

I also pulled every unused part from the inside of the camera, ethernet, lemo power, remote, viewfinders, memory stick and all the cables that went with these and the dock cables. Camera looks very very clean on the inside without all this extra cable flow and I think it will help airflow.


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I no longer have an F35, but I think one direction to go with this is to use a microcontroller board like Pic32 (or Arduino or Rasberry Pi or a linux based one) to connect to the various data connections of the boards you're removing. I think it could be feasible to emulate the data signals they exchange, so the camera would think those bulky boards were still present and in good order - and therefore would remove the errors and allow menu control again.
 
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