F35 Body Modifications - ideas and what is possible?

yachacha

Well-known member
I've heard mention from a few user and wondered myself what are the possibilities of removing the f35 from it's current body and replacing it into a smaller shell. Without a doubt this would cost a lot and it becomes far more of a passion project than a realistic value to the camera. I like to approach a project wether it is realistically something I can do with the resources available to me, money is an important resource to consider also.

The F35 is like a computer, I have seen lots of people build their own computer cases out of every type of material and shape. The biggest concern I would have is shock displacement when building a custom case for the F35. The skeleton of the F35 is like a cage around the circuit boards. A new shell would require the same type of skeleton and some sort of rubber shock system to connect to parts holding the internal boards.

A 2nd concern is the actual shape of the F35 right now might be as thin as it is ever going to be. From what I can see, the boards that stick out the side go almost to the edge of the camera. You can see the current F35 shell is not that thick or heavy. If these boards can not be moved then the camera is never going to get any thinner.

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From my point of view, a complete new case is too much time and work, and not something I am going to pursue. However I see these mods as possible, beneficial, and easy compared to trying to rehouse the entire camera. I have another project lined up so I will probably try to do all the mods at the same time to save down time once I know I have a few weeks.

Haircut
THe F35 isn't that tall of a camera when stripped down, what makes it look so dorky is the top dock, almost an inch above everything else and the fact that the sony handle is so high up. I already took out the top dock, now I am going to remove the rim of the top dock all the way down to the point where the spirit level is. Once this rim is removed, the camera will have a flat top right in line with the rest of the top of the camera.

I would like to find a top handle similar to the alexa that is a longer handle with a mounting point in front and in back, I also will mount the handle to points in the F35 body instead of the top plate. There are two screw holes left over from the F35 l handle right in the front of the body. I also want handles that can accommodate 15mm rods as I find it necessary to get a focus motor on there but would love to avoid the weight of the 19mm bottom plate.

For the material of the top plate I was considering some sort of light weight carbon fiber but I might just make a cheese plate with lots of mounting points. The plate can be made in the shape that fills int the hole left from the dock very close. The great thing is if I remove the rim from the dock, the top surface of the camera will be flat across and look more uniform. I would not cut the front plate, just the top rim would stick up about 1/2 cm.

Cooling
The F35 has 1 center fan cooling the CCD and 3 fans on the back of the case blowing air across the circuit boards. These fans are very standard 12v cooling fans. I have found several high end computer cooling fans which require the same power but can run silent and move just as much air. The center fan especially has lots of space and I might change that fan completely with a different type of fan. Also if I design a new top plate I can add more venting holes to add air to the main ccd. I purchased a large roll of hepa dust foam that I have been cutting and using to insulate the F35 further from dust, this can be used between the venting holes to ensure no big bits of dust make it into the camera.

Low Profile IF box
I've been working on this for a bit, basically I've been waiting to pick a recorder to finish the project. The circuit board required from the interface is actually very small and could fit inside a new box about 1 inch thick. The idea is to keep the CA Joint that attaches to the back dock. Bolt the Ca Joint to a 1 inch thick plate. Inside this plate has been milled out for the circuit board and the A and B SDI outputs, I will probably even keep the plugs from the Sony IF box. On the back side I will attach an anton bauer plate, I might try to add a d -tap to the plate also, using the side 12v port is a hassle. The 7Q is cheaper and has more uses than the SD pix so I'm slowly leaning that way. I wish the 12 bit 444 signal could be taken by the 7Q to make it the clear winner. The pix is also a bummer about the multiplexer because it's another part to power and place.

I'm not deserting my hyperdeck either, it's a fine choice and fits nicely with my F35. I'd rather have the low profile IF box as part of my kit along side the hyper deck. I'm not crazy about mounting the 7q either but after seeing it in person, it is not as bulky or large as you might think.

Side Body Rosette
This idea goes to Keith Lango who started me on the idea and I remembered my old trusty Eclair ACL with a rosette built into the side of the camera body. The spot is the CineAlta logo, there are two holes in the bottom that would be easy to use as two mounting points. Over the logo I would put a small plate with rosette. F35 body no bottom plates at all and a side grip coming right off the body would be a really nice shoulder rig. It's just about deciding to ruin that logo or not.

Probably will never get to:

I thought about making new custom sides out of carbon fiber, but they are pretty damn light right now. Also the weight of the side is the LED and controls. You could remove the side control completely and just use an assistants panel. Or... On the F65 forum I saw users were using small wifi routers connected to their ethernet because the wifi adapters are buggy. Find a router small enough that it could be hidden inside the F35 or new IF box. Using this router, the F35 could be controlled from a web browser on an iPad and the control over the F35 could be removed from the body and replaced with a carbon fiber plate. The router idea is pretty cool regardless of whether you remove the side panel, I might look into that by itself. Imagine having the camera on a jib arm and being able to set all your settings from an iPad.
 
Haha that would be amazing. I really hate the sony top handle, but it does seem like the best solution right now. Very interested to see what you do with it.

The person i bought my camera from put a rosette on the side of it, but far up the body, like way above the cinealta logo... very strange... haha

Here's a pic:

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I'm also getting an EVF/cheeseplate mount made - based on the holes for the EVF mount. That way you can bolt on whatever mount you want to the front using 1/4 20 holes. Here's my plans:

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I tired to make it so it wouldn't stick out much past the body at all (i think less than 1/4" on either side), but gave you a bit of space to play with mounting.
 
nice, you should make a few extra of those eye piece plates...

The F35 will run without the sides or docks connected, for anyone who was wondering, it appears to boot and operate normally.

I have to admit I've gone further into the F35 and am more puzzled than ever about it's design. If you imagine the f35 is a desktop similar to a mac pro, the large pcb boards that stick off the right side is the main motherboard, on the far side of it under the metal heat plate are 2 large chips that are heavily cooled, some sort of main processors. These chips are by far the most exposed on the camera too, all it would take is a good smash to that bulbous right side. Perhaps the idea is to get the heat off the body. Out of this board are the cards AD, VDA, AT almost like PCI cards in a motherboard. There is no way to compact this motherboard design from looking at how the cards connect at a right angle. If you ever wonder why the camera is such a strange shape, it's a mini computer in there hanging off that fat side.
 
nice, you should make a few extra of those eye piece plates...

Would you want one???

I was thinking about getting some extras made... not sure what the best way would be though. It's not cheap... just for one it's $300. With a bit of a bulk order its a bit cheaper, but I think it would still be like $200 per plate with black anodizing unless I sold a ton of them (which I'm assuming I wouldn't, probably like 5-10 MAX). I like the place I'm working with as they have done a bunch of camera stuff but probably not the cheapest. My plans are free though! If i love it, I might look into getting you guys a group buy here... maybe i'll pick up an extra one or two on the first run...

This is my first foray into getting stuff built, so I'm sure it will be enlightening! Definitely not against getting more made if it comes out awesomely.
 
Hmm. I had a plate made similar to your eye piece plate. Mine isn't a cheeseplate though - it's a dedicated shift up and out, just enough to made the viewfinder fit properly with Arri Ultra Primes and an Arri MB20 II. Mine isn't annodized, and it only cost about $70.
 
haha I don't think I'm getting a good deal honestly, my naivety with the process is showing with them, but their minimum charge for jobs was $275 anyways. I think they quoted me at like $100-$150 for each additional plate, and another $100 for anodizing. So for a run of 5, it would be like $775 anodized and that would split to $155 for each.. which aint too bad.... but i'd have to front the $775 for a not guaranteed sale of 5 for a very specific f35 piece.
 
Hmm. I've used two resources for all of my machining needs. One is a local shop that has a minimum charge of $40 USD at $70 an hour. The other is www.emachineshop.com

www.emachineshop.com isn't perfect. But they have free CAD software you can design on, and get immediate quotes on. They also build in tools that help you understand ways to reduce the quote by changing components of your design that may not be mission critical. And the quote system makes it easy to see what quantity discounts are available - and the quantity discounts can be significant. Downside is your turn time can be 3 weeks, maybe a month, to get your part.
 
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Very interesting about routing the power cables through the inside. I have been working up a new design for the hyper deck, my hyper deck hdmi burnt out so I need to drill a new one anyways. The cable running inside the IF box from the dock connector to the 4 pin XLR does not go through any additional circuits, it is a cable that goes from the bottom connector on the dock to the back of the 4 pin, straight cable. Hopefully I can order this from Sony. The idea now is to put the gold mount plate on the back of the hyper deck. I will run a cable through a hole in the hyper deck that powers the hyper deck and also the F35 through the bottom dock connector. My questions is if the camera will wig out with the bottom of the dock being used without the top connected. I am taking the IF box apart to test it. Exciting if we can power the camera through the dock without the IF box. If all goes according to plan I can power the camera and hyper deck without any external cables.

Sony's pricing on the F35 parts is very interesting. The large components, like a CCD Block or a complete IF box, are insane high prices, but most of the inside components are reasonably priced. There also seems to be an internal battery that might start to go on our cameras.

Does anyone know anything about these parts? I handle is over 2k but interesting to think there is another top handle we've never seen. I also noticed on Panavision's site, they have an improved top handle for the F35.

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I own a total of two IF boxes, and took one apart to do testing. Latestes firmware on F35.

Findings:
1. That separate cable with the 4-pin XLR to the lower dock port is just power in.
2. The camera will accept power in without the rest of the IF box present.
3. This means you can do interesting things like feed power through the back and put the electronics communication of the IF box on the top of the camera.
4. There are three circuit boards. A main one, a dock connector one, and an audio specific one.
5. The main circuit board is required. Without it, the camera will not provide the HD-SDI outputs. It provides an essential handshake.
6. The audio board is optional. If not attached, no audio levels will be added to the SDI signals.
7. With the main circuit board attached, the SDI signals from the camera are active, and you can bypass the main circuit board audio embed circuit (wire SDI cables from the dock to the destination, skip the main board).

Interesting stuff. Without the 4pin input or audio inputs, you can certainly put it all in a smaller box.

And Sony's pricing is a headscratcher, considering you could machine an alternate box for under $1,000. Potentially well under.
 
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Got the new plate in! Looks great to me, the blemishes with the job are from my grinding, I am going to try to clean up the back fins a bit to look less hacked up. I wish he had gone further towards the back but I see that the tally light got in the way. I am going to fill the space underneath with HEPA foam to protect from dust. Eventually I am going to replace the stock fan with a bigger fan connected to the bottom of the plate, then I will add venting holes to the plate. I am going to use a friends drill press later this week to get the holes for the handles and also a few holes for mounting hardware.

Hopefully I can have the camera all together and working by the weekend.

Anyone know a good paint I can use as a touch up on the F35, I know it probably wont ever be perfect. I was planning on going to a scale model store and looking through all the shades until I found one close. Either that or strip her down and paint her all black...hahaha.
 
blacking it out with a matte finish is a great idea. anyway to get the white words back though? probably not.
 
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Very slowly I am making progress again on F35 parts and mods. I call this the battery quick plate. I have given in to the idea of using the IF box for 12-bit with the 7Q. If I want to make the rig lighter and don't care about audio or 12-bit, I will use this battery plate. It puts the battery plate close into the dock unlike the IF box which sticks out a few inches.

Still waiting on the cable but power runs from AB plate into the lower dock connection supplying power to the camera. AB plate also has a D-tap for powering the 7Q.

Off to the small screw store now. I am happy with the way the part turned out, I think F35 will look very sleek with just battery snug against the back. Still need to get parts painted/anodized...
 
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