F3 ISO settings

R

rameshjai

New member
Totally new to the F3 so please excuse my ignorance.

1. What Picture profiles are you mostly using?
2. Where can we change the ISO setting?
3. Any popular Picture Settings I can download from somewhere?
4. Any other resource for more info on the F3 besides this forum?

Thanks so much
 
Rameshjai,

Below is an excerpt of some writing I did on how or why I am using the different built in gamma modes on the F3. Now that S-LOG is included in v1.4 firmware it is changing how I approach my shooting all together but I think the information below will help you. I have never used other people's profiles since I adjust my color in post and like to shoot the F3 as stock as possible. I have learned some picture profile settings to eliminate chroma distortion when shooting the sun, but that is another story... The biggest advantage I see in using the Sony cine gammas is simply to adjust your middle grey point while shooting to fit your scene so you don't have to adjust it as much in post. This is especially important when shooting 8-bit to SXS like I usually do and you still want some room to "color".

starcentral said:
I needed to share some feedback on the F3 now that I've owned one for 8 months and worked on a variety of projects with it from interviews, feature length films (okay just one so far), artistic music videos, and even photography (yes with the F3). For a Super 35mm motion picture camera you might expect rigid processes and finagling but the F3 is far from it once you learn how to use all the features of the camera and combine them.

GAMMA MODES
===========
I'm now only exclusively shoot using gamma modes 1,3,4 with custom white balance temperatures dialed in. This let's me cool down or warm up a shot depending on what I need, and especially outdoors where clouds are passing by creating shade and sunlight sporadically. I seem to use 4400, 5200, and 3200 the most for some reason. Gamma modes 1,3,4 will record signals above 100 IRE making them illegal for broadcast but adjusting 'levels' or 'curves' in post, or by using a shoulder plugin or some other legal NTSC plugin in your favourite NLE you can make your signal legal again. I like to spread my signal over a max area for capture (0-110 IRE) so I know I am clipping less and given some freedom later. To see the curves I put this doc togegther.
Click to expand...

To read the entire post click here: http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?281862-The-absolutely-amazing-Sony-F3&highlight=amazing (and please note cine gamma 2 shoots a legal signal and will clip at 100IRE.)

To see how I am using a light meter with the F3 to help with exposure read here: http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthrea...r-to-use-with-a-f3/page2&highlight=lightmeter

If you still like my extremely biased posts on using meters to get exposure try this: http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?288957-White-balance-every-shot-or-every-scene/page3 (ignore the title of this thread, the original thread starter did not mean "white balance" he meant exposure)
 
I think it's critical to get a ChromaduMonde chart from DSCLabs and a vectorscope to build a proper, color specific picture profile.
If your primary and secondary colors aren't scoped properly your kicking at the wind.
 
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