F2.8 and lowlight...

[Jean Dantes]

Hey guys, I currently have a Canon 7D on order and a Sigma 30mm f1.4 lens. However, I'm starting to think that perhaps it's better if I invest in a lens like the Tamron 17-50mm f2.8 (http://www.dwidigitalcameras.com.au/store/product.asp?idProduct=2416) which uses VC (Vibration Compensation - which is supposedly similar to Canon's IS (Image Stabilisation)).

I've seen a few 7D videos that are handheld, but shot with Canon lenses using IS technology, and the rolling-shutter is virtually non-existent. However, I'd like to know if f2.8 is good for shooting at night-time (i.e. not pitch black, but a few street lights here and there).

Also, is f1.4 just too shallow to get much use out of?

And finally, would a prime lens deliver better image quality than a zoom lens?

Would love to know your thoughts and opinions!! Thanks in advance to any replies!!

P.S. Just thought I'd mention, I will be using a Redrock shoulder-mount rig with two counter-weights...however, I'd love to be able to just pull the 7D out where ever, i.e. middle of a restaurant, and shoot with not having to worry about rolling-shutter...hence my interest in lenses that use IS/VC...thanks again!

 

[Cassius]

Why don't you set your lens to 2.8 and find out? It shouldn't really matter, though, since 2.8 is pretty much the only non-50mm choice.

 

[Kholi]

Image Stabilization does not correct rolling shutter. It does nothing to rolling shutter. Holding the camera still or putting it on a tripod removes micro-jitters, micro-ijitters, however, is not a product of rolling shutter but camera operator error/foul.

If you feel that you can't hold it steady, then perhaps that might be a good purchase for you.

Rolling shutter artifacts will still be present.

 

[Jean Dantes]

Why don't you set your lens to 2.8 and find out? It shouldn't really matter, though, since 2.8 is pretty much the only non-50mm choice.

I don't own it yet, it's still on order.

 

[Jean Dantes]

Image Stabilization does not correct rolling shutter. It does nothing to rolling shutter. Holding the camera still or putting it on a tripod removes micro-jitters, micro-ijitters, however, is not a product of rolling shutter but camera operator error/foul.

If you feel that you can't hold it steady, then perhaps that might be a good purchase for you.

Rolling shutter artifacts will still be present.

Fair enough. Guess the question now is: does a prime lens deliver a better image than a zoom lens? (I'm assuming "yes")

 

[Kholi]

Fair enough. Guess the question now is: does a prime lens deliver a better image than a zoom lens? (I'm assuming "yes")

Different sources will say different things. I still think that the better the quality the better the image. As far as I'm concerned, jury's out.

It also depends on the zoom. I don't know about the zoom you've listed, but there are a lot of Nikon zooms that straight-up out-do a lot of prime lenses at every focal length.

I choose primes, personally. Not just for image quality, but, speed as well. Shooting wide open @ 1.4 is a great option when you need the extra leverage, so long as you can tame the focus which really isn't all that hard, either. Especially for scripted material.

2.8 isn't extremely slow on the 7D, either. It's low enough to avoid going higher than 320 ISO when you have some light.

It'll come down to functionality in the end: Do you need to be able to jump from 17-55mm often? Again, for me, a short range zoom like that won't cover how I shoot.

Something in the ball park of 24 - 85mm would, though.

 

[morgan_moore]

i mostly use zooms but have a 50 1.4 in the bag - very cheap

one problem with zooms is they can be soft open so really f4 - can be a problem

if you are on a budget then a used 50 1.8 nikkor will get you out of a hole while that zoom should see you good for 80% of the time

IMO

S

 

[mhood]

Personally, I find a whole world of available/low light possibilities at 1.4 - 2.8 that just don't exist for me at 2.8 and above.

 

[PerroneFord]

Frankly, I'm interested in seeing some of the f1.4 footage that people are talking about. Some of the best focus pullers in the world have trouble at f1.8, so I want to see what this f1.4 stuff looks like from our DVXUser compadres.

 

[Kholi]

Frankly, I'm interested in seeing some of the f1.4 footage that people are talking about. Some of the best focus pullers in the world have trouble at f1.8, so I want to see what this f1.4 stuff looks like from our DVXUser compadres.

Odd statement... but, I suppose it depends on what you define as "trouble" and which worldclass focus puller told you that he or she has trouble pulling focus in these situations. I don't think many union ACs have much trouble pulling focus wide open on Cinema Glass, considering they're marked properly and it's scripted work....

 

[PerroneFord]

Odd statement... but, I suppose it depends on what you define as "trouble" and which worldclass focus puller told you that he or she has trouble pulling focus in these situations. I don't think many union ACs have much trouble pulling focus wide open on Cinema Glass, considering they're marked properly and it's scripted work....

Comments from American Cinematographer. Sorry I don't have the direct reference handy.

 

[saneproductions]

I know that I have trouble keeping things sharp at 2.8 sometimes (using the z-finder without follow focus). at 90mm on the 5d mark ii you can sometimes only get one eye into focus on a CU.

 

[Barry_Green]

Image Stabilization does not correct rolling shutter. It does nothing to rolling shutter. Holding the camera still or putting it on a tripod removes micro-jitters, micro-ijitters, however, is not a product of rolling shutter but camera operator error/foul.

If you feel that you can't hold it steady, then perhaps that might be a good purchase for you.

Rolling shutter artifacts will still be present.

Yes, but I'm gonna sort of disagree, while not disagreeing. Kholi's correct that the rolling shutter will always be there, and the solution is to get rid of the jitters, but I've found that image stabilization certainly seems to help that out some. It gets rid of the jitters, and the rolling shutter hates the jitters, if you have jittery footage it looks a hundred times worse on a rolling shutter camera because it gets all stretchy and wobbly. IS does help smooth out the jitters.

 

[Jester2138]

one problem with zooms is they can be soft open so really f4 - can be a problem

In video mode on a DSLR there really isn't such a thing as a "soft" lens, unless you're talking about something really crappy. But the sort of zooms most people would use aren't that crappy. The lenses are designed for MUCH higher resolutions than 1080p, so even if they're soft in still mode, they'll be find in video mode.