Extra cheap merlin style stabilizer

steadycam said:
Thank you for the kind words.

This is a video Steady Cam with a DSLR.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UR3TihKdbZ8

As for the camera plate moving instead of the gimble, I am not sure it would make a difference. I would say what ever is easier to adjust, and as long as you have full control in both directions (X and Y).
Click to expand...


Hmm, to be honest, that steadycam looks like it bounces up and down, left and right just by you walking. Not exactly what I'd call smooth.
Keep up the work though!
 
Crosby! said:
I watched a few of the Sturdycam videos and read some of the other forum posts. -- looks like you could even get it in your shot with a wide enough lens.
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No you won't get in your shots! I put it in those shot just to get a fix point to test left/right steadiness

(btw in the next version we reomoved it and put a longer bolt at bottom to achieve front-back balance).


Some more footages from users:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1HFExXJ9WuI

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nSkFUHHljtE

http://vimeo.com/14152918

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cF3FOkAaCAg

http://vimeo.com/14422674


And also a funny test from me ;) just uploaded

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVnOdw9ZEIo

Enjoy!
Jaco
 
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I too studied this range of steadicams for a LONG time, including all the DIY and lower end units. The two things I noticed and paid attention to in all reviews and such was about finding the center of gravity. For something like an HV30 where you can always use it the same, it's not as big of a deal, but I switch out between 4 different lenses A LOT during filming. I use my steadicam A LOT because of the rolling shutter on the 7D. Therefore, that was my driving force on which I picked.

When picking one out, or building one, this is the criteria that should decide what sacrifices you want to make for price.

At the end of the day I went with the Blackbird by CMR, we actually have 3 of them we like them so much. The adjustments to the top-plate are VERY easy to balance and the gymbal is awesome. In addition, the spread weights at the bottom REALLY help to prevent sway on pan. Anyone who has used these will know what that feels like. I actually use the 15 inch bar to get even less.

Granted, comparing with a $40 or $99 is not a fair comparison, as it is cheaper than the merlin but a lot more than some want to spend, but understanding what a lot of the cost differences mean is important too.

Steadicam, your unit looks awesome. Good job! Although I would say in the future you should REALLY work towards getting rid of those flat surfaces. Wind is going to make them work like a sail and cause sway given the weight balancing.
 
grimepoch said:
I too studied this range of steadicams for a LONG time, including all the DIY and lower end units. The two things I noticed and paid attention to in all reviews and such was about finding the center of gravity. For something like an HV30 where you can always use it the same, it's not as big of a deal, but I switch out between 4 different lenses A LOT during filming. I use my steadicam A LOT because of the rolling shutter on the 7D. Therefore, that was my driving force on which I picked.
Click to expand...

Right, you might be interested in this test. Extending threaded shaft allows you to find always center of gravity, even with a long long lens:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnOfCUEaNGs

Cheers
 
sturdyshots2 said:
Right, you might be interested in this test. Extending threaded shaft allows you to find always center of gravity, even with a long long lens:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnOfCUEaNGs

Cheers
Click to expand...

Extending the shaft of the gymbal does not help in finding the center of gravity, that's in an entirely different axis. Unless you are meaning some other threaded shaft. I can easily see from the video that the reason the center is moved is due to all the weight at the back of the top plate that is compensating for the added weight on the camera from the lens through the front of the camera.

Not that weight is a bad thing on top, it actually helps especially with a light camera (as I add a quick release plate JUST for adding more weight for my 7D). And, extending the gymbal I find is a good thing as well, I use the extender ALL the time with my Blackbird.

But I will say this, zoom lens that extend in and out change the center of gravity requiring a quick adjustment on some lenses. Having a very easy system with built in spirit levels makes those changes negligible. You never realize how much you change your lenses till you fly on a steadicam (well, at least I didn't).

However, I am comparing (while still relatively cheap in the stabilizer world) is 15x more expensive. I only comment here for those making cheaper options to consider these features if possible to make them even more useful and feature-full!

Good work from all of you though!
 
grimepoch said:
Extending the shaft of the gymbal does not help in finding the center of gravity, that's in an entirely different axis. Unless you are meaning some other threaded shaft. I can easily see from the video that the reason the center is moved is due to all the weight at the back of the top plate that is compensating for the added weight on the camera from the lens through the front of the camera.
Click to expand...

Absolutely right! You've got what I mean!



grimepoch said:
But I will say this, zoom lens that extend in and out change the center of gravity requiring a quick adjustment on some lenses. Having a very easy system with built in spirit levels makes those changes negligible. You never realize how much you change your lenses till you fly on a steadicam (well, at least I didn't).
Click to expand...

Yes right again, let me explain this in my system:

If you zoom in or out the SAME lens, you're just changing (front/back) static balance (not left/right) and not drop time, so quick adjustment is possible by moving washers at the bottom forward or backward,
BUT if you completely change lens you change not only static balance but drop time too!, in that case you also have to remove or add washers from the top or from the bottom in order to get again correct drop time, then you move washers forward and backward and you're done. Of course you should write down BEFORE shooting how many washers add or remove not to loose time during shooting...

for example:

you have to pass from 18-55mm to 50mm,

in my system I'd add washers on the top (instead of removing it from the bottom since the 50mm is lighter then 18--55mm), so I'd write down: add x washers on BOTH side of the horizontal shaft (since left-right balance won't be affected) to achieve correct drop time, then move washers at the bottom to achieve static balance...


QR is great but just if you use one lens IMHO...

Spirit level (IMHO) is just great for L/R balance... for front-back is quite useless: you center it then you realize that you want the system a little bit back tilted because your talent is taller than you:grin::grin::grin:
 
I received mine relatively quick (Turkey to China shipping) but so far I haven't been able to balance it because the side to side balancing options are really limited. I think I need to drill some extra holes, but I don't have the tools and I don't know anyone with the tools (I currently live in a farm town in China). I've actually been too lazy to find someone to do it since my Hague MMC hasn't broken yet, and I just keep using that. I'm just scared the GH1 with everything on it is too heavy for the Hague. When I finally get around to it, I'll post some footy. I am planning on making a feature and I need it by then.
 
Thanks for responding so quickly. Well I hope mine arrives soon. I've sent a follow up email asking about delivery but so far no reply. Look forward to seeing some footage and I'll let you know how I go on setting up also. Maybe someone else has also purchased this and can tell us about balancing our GH13s? Cheers, Rob
 
The cost of a good stabilizer is high. I think I will have a DIY Mission. If all goes well I will post a thread on it. If you don't hear back you know what happened.
 
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