DOF Adapter Grabs

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Policar

Carbonite Member
Yeah, I've been posting these all over, but I'm just stoaked that they actually look pretty good. I'm shooting a "music video" (quotes are intentional) with this thing tomorrow or Saturday, so that will be the real test. And, yes, there is dust on the outside of the focusing screen. Other than one piece in the wax, it can easily be cleaned off, my can of compressed air just ran out of pressure so I left it as is.

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The soft edges are due to a cheap macro lens. The vignetting (though not horrible) is an issue I have to work on. The adapter cost me a total of about 70 dollars, though, or 35 dollars not counting the Nikon/EOS adapter I already own. Usually I get chromatic abberation, but it's almost totally gone here which really makes me happy.
 
I posted to the "medium format" thread in the Hardware section. A grab and link to a page with some video.

If you're at all interested. :grin: I like using the bigger frame-size of the 6x6 camera...more room to play around in.

Dan
 
Hey Policar when do you plan on updating that design in the link you posted? I'd be interested in seeing how you've advanced it since then.

-Edalgo
 
I just posted the guide yesterday or the day before, but I've already learned a few things since then. Still, the design hasn't really changed at all. Once I do make more changes, knowing what some potential fixes are for problems I have, I'll be sure to update the guide and post more pics. The main thing is that there are some typos and misinformation I should correct, as well as a few minor design flaws.
 
Policar said:
I just posted the guide yesterday or the day before, but I've already learned a few things since then. Still, the design hasn't really changed at all. Once I do make more changes, knowing what some potential fixes are for problems I have, I'll be sure to update the guide and post more pics. The main thing is that there are some typos and misinformation I should correct, as well as a few minor design flaws.
Click to expand...

please tell us. Also, I Livein Orlando FL, the Home Depot's near me don't carry Nibco Parts. They have signs for them, and are listed as carrying them, but after going to 3 different Home Depot's, They are all using Mueller pvc fittings. Any idea of building this with mueller parts. I tried dry fitting the coupling with the adapters w/ your tutorial. I had the tutorial printed out w/ me when i was looking to match the mueller parts, no luck, the parts suck. I may have to go to a pvc supplier to find nibco parts... but, please inform us of your design flaws. Ive already purhcased the same +10 macro u used from ebay, and today just purchased a piece of 52mm UV Glass. I was thinking instead of using the wax, to use Ideaspora.nets way as to grinding the UV Glass with Aluminum Oxide and another piece of glass.
 
Well, I haven't got too much time to update stuff right now, especially since the changes are minor, but I'll list them here:

The distance between the lens and the "focusing screen" should be 44mm for Nikon lenses or 46.5 for Canon lenses in order for you to focus to infinity correctly. However, the tube itself doesn't have to be that long because of the length of the ground glass and the mount itself. The best thing to do is take a piece of plexiglass or a cd case or something and scratch it up with sandpaper a bit, focus on infinity with the lens, and use it as a guide to get focusing perfect.

I also experimented with a thinner layer of wax and got about 1.5 stops of light loss at most, I'd say, but the image didn't turn out so well. I need to experiment more with that.

Brian Wells (thisiswells on dvxuser) has provided me with this link in an email:
http://www.optosigma.com/miva/merch..._Code=pg211&Category_Code=Filters+&+Apertures
The fine grit GG looks great and should fit into a 52mm filter. If only there were some way to oscillate it a bit, it would probably be the ideal solution. As it is, I think it would be much better--and not that much more expensive--than using home made grand glass, which--in my experience--provides a noticeably grain pattern.

Also, the rear lens caps that come with Canon EOS cameras seem like they would fit really well over 2'' PVC piping and provide a pretty secure grip, and that's cheaper, though EOS lenses aren't fully manual and are epensive, unfortunately. Also, I've found equivalent parts of PVC pipe from other manufacturers, by the way, but they may be a mm or two off in dimension but are very very close.
 
i will post pics of my results w/ homemade "ground" glass that i ground w/ aluminum oxide once i get my macro lens... it shipped Saturday first class from maryland. maybe i'll have it today or tomorrow. hopefully.

i tested the gg w/ the lens in front of it, i get a nice image, but i can see where i ground the glass there are white dots here and there that look like minor imperfections... i'll have to see what happens... wish i had some real fine Aluminum Oxide, for a super smooth surface.
 
I'm still learning about this stuff... But I'm good at making things. My question is what does the ground lense do? and how come you don't just get one out of a lense system? :cheesy:
 
Not sure what you mean by a "lens system," but if you mean the assembly in an SLR, it's the same basic idea, and if you could make one fit...well...it would probably work.

The ground glass is where the actual image forms, the camcorder just records it. It's basically just a screen which the 35mm lens projects an image onto. This image is what the camcorder records.
 
Oh so you can't just take out of an existing ground glass lense and put it on your set up? Well I went to redrockmicro.com...They have a DIY book on making your own system. But I know figuring it out yourself is more fun.
 
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