DIY IndieSlider...

Christer said:
I did notice the noise was a bit of an issue when using the Glidetrack Hybrid. However, it took so little force to move the carriage along and I found it much easier to achieve a steadier slider speed whereas I found the traditional way quite difficult to overcome the "stickiness" that occurs. Also, today was a very hot day (36 degrees c, 45 with humidity) and there is definitely a lot more friction with the slider today. Do you find temperature has a large effect on the slider's fluidity?
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I'll address this with a quote from Postmaster:
Can we please make that statement a sticky? For all those folks who absolutely want super easy ball bearings?
I build my first slider some years ago with those linear ball bearings and special rods.
Beside the noise (I would be able to handle that) I never got a smooth shot.

You defiantly want (and need) the damping, that the Igus slide provides.
If you don't get smooth start/stop/sliding, than practice.
You have to practice with a steadycam too - nobody with a sane mind ,expects everyone and his kid brother to handle a
steadycam like the pros on day one - same with the slider.

I know, most folks don´t want to hear that, but it takes some time till you master it.

end of rant - frank
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I have done the realign thanks to your suggestions and I didn't see an improvement. You've said that the more weight, the easier it slides but with mine it is just the opposite. It slides very well when there's nothing on the carriage, but with camera, lens and tripod head added, the friction is greatly enhanced. It's tricky because I really don't have a benchmark so I'm not sure if I'm just being finicky or if I should be looking at contacting Igus for some new bearings. Thanks again for your help Zaza. You really are fantastic at helping people out with this stuff.
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Something is not right here... have you centered the weight of your camera on the carriage? If it hangs over the edge of the rail, it will put too much pressure on one side of the carriage and cause it to 'bind'. I doubt it's your bearings, I'm still using the original slider I built over 3 years ago and it's smooth as silk.

Post some video or something so I can see what is happening & help you...again, something just isn't right here.
 
Upgrade glide to movement with belt :shocked:

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NEW Hybrid Carriage

NEW Hybrid Carriage

New Hybrid carriage is here!

So, I met with the igus rep and now have the new Hybrid bearing carriage (and it's available now, if you're interested contact me). I played with it over the weekend and put together
a quick video for your review and assessment. This was just quick and I have the AF100 on it... the rail is only supported by a single tripod in the middle, so you will see the slightest tilt as the rig gets to the end of the rail. This is not deflection of the rail (that stuff is really solid and does not bend, it's the tripod). I would normally support this from both ends with a rig of this weight...but again, I just want to get this together for you guys to see.

Audio is from the on-camera mic (AF100) at 4 feet from the rail and untouched so you can hear the difference the two different carriages. If you listen closely, you'll notice both have the same 'swoosh' sound of the Drylin bearings...but the Hybrid has the added sound of the rollers on the rail. I don't think it will make that much difference at a shoot because if you're shooting 24p you should be sliding slowly. In the sliding test, you are also hearing the on-camera mic (not that you'd be using that ar a shoot). You be the judge.

I'll be adding my brake mod to mine so I can add a little resistance, it's a little too free rolling for what I'm used to.

Here's what I found:
1. The new carriage is 150mm in length
2. The rollers are made of a hard plastic
3. It is a bit louder then the original Drylin carriage
4. Rolls very smoothly which makes for a little more practice for good starts & stops (but you should be sliding slowly anyways...I might have gone a bit fast myself)
5. It is much heavier then the original Drylin carriage
6. It is much more expensive then the original Drylin carriage
7. There's a little more 'play' because the carriage rides on the rollers in the bearing blocks, so you have to be careful of wobble.
8. The carriage is only available for the 16-60mm rail and can be added to your original ZazaSlider.


If you have questions or need more information....just post here or PM me...I'm more then glad to help.

Slide on brothers & sisters....slide on!:happy:
 
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- Pulley small with 18 teeth Diameter 45.84mm
- Pulley small with 34 DIA 86.58mm and 44 teeth DIA 112.05mm
- Crankshaft : 16mm x 150mm
- Belt join with 8 teeth 20mm x20mm
- Timing belt with S8M type 4m
- Bolt 8mm x 5cm x 4pcs
- Tube 20mm with hole 8mm for main slide and 2 for Pulleys (changing ratio transmigration from 34 to 44 teeth with 18 teeth pulley )
- Ball bearing 626RS x 6pcs
All cutting with aluminum T6061 by CNC Milling and Lathe machine .

price : 150USD
contact : minh2171@gmail.com :happy:
 
someone would have a technical drawing of the slider? I go to a locksmith to make one, but it requires a design with the measures to implement, could someone help me?
thanks
 
mrl72 said:
Has anyone tried using octopus flexible tripods for feet? They're only $3 on ebay and looks like could be a decent solution for mounting the slider at various angles (like up against a pole etc.).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Flexib...ltDomain_0&hash=item3cbbce66ab#ht_1957wt_1398
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Yes... people have, but use really good, strong GorillaPod ones (and oly on the small 10-40mm rail). Even a 5lb. rig (in addition to the weight of the slider) would probably make these sag....and I'm sure they wouldn't be strong enough to hold it all up against a pole. Seems they would be hard to level too, one little bump or too much pressure downward could tip the whole thing.
 
OK, I finally got my rail today but having a hard time with mounting the head, seems my Davis & Sanford FM18 head won't fit flush with the carriage because it knocks into the screw heads. Would I be right in saying I'll have to get a new head with a narrower base, or, just get a riser? But here's my question, if I get a new head which (cheapish) one lets you pan as well as tilt?

Cheers.
 
mrl72 said:
OK, I finally got my rail today but having a hard time with mounting the head, seems my Davis & Sanford FM18 head won't fit flush with the carriage because it knocks into the screw heads. Would I be right in saying I'll have to get a new head with a narrower base, or, just get a riser? But here's my question, if I get a new head which (cheapish) one lets you pan as well as tilt?

Cheers.
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You have a few options:
1. get a riser (filmtools makes a nice one that is inexpensive)
2. get another head (anything like the Manfrotto 501, 503 or 701...will all work nicely)
3. get one of my carriage plates (all eight holes are counter-bored so no screws stick up) & use your current head

Happy sliding,
-Zaza
 
Thanks Zaza!

Looks like Filmtools has been out of stock of the 4" riser for awhile now, do you know if there is an alternative riser solution? Anything DIY maybe?

Cheers.
 
mrl72 said:
Thanks Zaza!

Looks like Filmtools has been out of stock of the 4" riser for awhile now, do you know if there is an alternative riser solution? Anything DIY maybe?

Cheers.
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You can use anything as a riser... a block of wood, piece of pipe, PVC... people have used the strangest things.
 
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